This car is originally a 4 wheel drum car. Someone put front disc Wilwood conversion on.
Front brakes dragging when you release pedal
Narrowed it down to wrong or bad master and or proportioning valve
Someone also put a booster on but not a cougar booster it is a 6 inch diameter booster gold in color. I believe reason for smaller booster is they also put on a Modern driveline hydraulic clutch system on it. A normal 8 or 9 in diameter cougar booster hits the clutch master
Bought new master but does not fit on booster. Holes on booster farther apart than on new master. I have no idea what kind of booster they put on. They had cut open the mounting holes on their master so it would somewhat fit the booster
My question:
Does anyone know of a 6 inch diameter power brake booster and master combination that I could use for this application???
Wilwood has a tech support line, might be worth seeing what they might offer for a solution to master cylinder/ booster. I think they used to run some disc kits without a booster.
The problem Iām having is with the booster. No idea what booster they put on but the two bolts on the booster are farther apart than the holes on any master I have seen that is for the 1970.
To make the master that is on it now fit they cut a slot out of each hole on the master
Problem is the original boosters are 8 and 9 inches in diameter.
Do to someone putting a hydraulic clutch in this car the clutch master is in the way of an original booster fitting. I canāt have a booster bigger than 7 inches in diameter.
My ā67 has a Hydra boost. Engine has a CVF serpentine belt system along with a hydra boost pump that powers both brakes and Flaming River Rack & Pinion. There was/were some issues in arranging the plumbing and keeping it neat and organized.
Itās actually going to move under itās own power in at least 7 years this week. From the shop to the enclosed trailer to heated winter storage.
I plan to video it.
Testing will begin in mid to late April and will report when I get behind the wheel.
Itās likely that the adjustment between the master and booster is too tight, causing the compensation port in the master to be covered when the brakes are released. If you have a threaded adjustment on the master, back it off in half turns until itās resolved. This diagnosis can be verified before making adjustments by opening a bleeder port in the caliper and see if fluid jumps out and the wheel immediately frees up
If the test suggested by e clone works you can back off the mounting nuts that hold the master to the booster ā¦install a body shim in-between the two ans snug upā¦.check pedalā¦repeat as necessary adding a shim to each ear. The amount af shim will tell you how much you need to shorten the push rod
I think I would contact Wilwood and see if the have a clutch slave that is compatible with the stock booster. Because Mustang is the same I would be shocked if they did not have a solution.