When I first did mine, about 8 years back, It took me about a week to do it all, But that was working a few hours each day after work. Takes your time, as jc750 said, take a lot of pictures(digital cameras are fantastic). You will want to get several colors of paint, Cast gray, Satan Black(I like Krilon 1613) and Ford Dark Blue engine paint. One of the things doing this will do for you is you will see what condition things like hoses and belts are in and give you a good opportunity to upgrade them.
This is what mine looked like when I got this Cougar in 2008.
And a newer picture,( need to take a better one soon)
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Yes, very common. I like the regulators made by Standard Motor Products myself, but any good name-brand regulator should be OK, so long as itās dimensions are compatible with the repo cover.
The one piece shock tower brace is a common modification people make. I donāt find them necessary but the one pictured was already on the car when I bought it. Youāll notice that in Steveās picture, his individual shock tower braces have additional reinforcement near the cowl. Those were found on some 70ās and are a nice upgrade without having to go to the one piece version. Whichever version you go with, they were painted slop grey from the factory, not black as many people paint them.
Most '69 - '70 351Ws came with a stamped sheet-metal heat riser that looked like this:
But there was a period during the '70 model year when Ford used a two-piece unit with a flexible hose, which is what yours appears to have. The original flex hose was actually made of paper, and looked like this:
I know weāre talking 351W bays here but thereās a lot of commonality so hereās a ābeforeā and āafterā of mine (so far).
Since I got the car Iāve done more correct (if not totally correct) shocks, plug wires, blue paint, decals, PCV valve, and horns.
Iāve taken a few steps back on correctness with the aftermarket A/C (especially since they routed the hose across the front of the distributor instead of behind the air cleaner) and the export brace but those are worth it to me. Correct battery cables are on order.
Did it that way in 2013-2014 winter seasonā¦ not impossible even for the amateur, but patience is required.
I removed everything I could and used masking tape to protect what was left, the most difficult was to re-install the hood (alignment/adjustment) after the job was completed. Not correct, especially color of PS pump, but OK to me as a driver.
Can anyone confirm for me that this is the correct part number for the export shock tower brace? C5ZZ-16A052-S
A local supplier can sell me the Scott Drake repro in satin or black that costs not much more than respraying the old ones.
Also, does anyone know whether the satin from the Scott Drake range looks similar to the original grey? It looks too bright from the photos. If it is miles off the original grey, I might just go for black.
Also, does this decal go on the snorkel to the air filter case or on the valve cover behind the oil breather? I have seen in in both spots on different cars.
Be careful of the cheap thin standard draw battery cables sold by most Mustang places. The high draw repro cables (stamped with part numbers) are a better choice especially if you can find a set with the extra body earthing point.
Repainting some of the bits, like the hood catch and shock caps, in cast grey also makes the under bonnet area look good