I must confess to admit that the issue was me. Everything is working now. I had the new flasher unit plugged into the emergency flasher. Once I realized that the unit was on the passenger side I corrected it and they work perfectly.
Thanks for indulging me.
I’m not sure if people are still using this forum but I’m having some issues like the others with my sequential taillights.
So basically with the vehicle running I can get the hazard lights and turn signals to work but the outer bulb is the only bulb that flashes. The sequential motor is working and doing what it’s supposed to but I honestly have no idea where to start.
If my memory is correct , I modified the motor arms to about 1.31 in c/l on a Bridgeport mill. Then used 5/16 male heim joint both rt and lh the. By using 5/16 hole thru the arm , you end up with almost a full hole to locate the bolt if you bore a new hole on location with an end mill.
The linkage was 3/8 brass hex with rt and lh 5/16-24 this. You only need one jam nut and rh lams are easier to find . The arm can be mounted in several serrated grooves on the end of the shaft. Depending on year , hook up the trigger wire to the input side of the high beam switch or output of h/l switch and 12v pos for the parking mode . Cycle the motors and let them park . Adjust linkage so thr doors line up to everything when parked closed.
I ended up using two relays , one for each motor as had issues of timming the parking switches. On was faster than the other and would cross feed open an closed , like winking til you pulled the battery cable. May be ways around it but it was simple in my old brain. While your right there on the core support , add a relay for the hi and low beams and one for the a/c compressor. Your dash wiring and switches will love you
thru the arm to attach the to the heim
The contacts on the sequential motor are probably black with carbon. This carbon keeps the lights from flashing. Try cleaning them with a relay contact burnishing tool, like a GC 9338, or 2000 grit sandpaper.
I’m just got a new to me 1969 XR7. It has LED tail light bulbs. I have not found this exact problem in this thread, and am starting from ground zero and never had a Cougar. Everything works fine except the right turn signal. The outer two bulbs flash simultaneously, not in sequence. Where do I start. Battery new, car not running during test. Thanks
What LED bulbs are installed?
Which sequencer is being used?
I have 1157 tower LEDs installed and the circuit board is the one from cougarsunlimited.net. Looks like the circuit board fits in the original plastic case based on the part number molded into it. Thanks!
Which version of the board do you have?
C9WY-13A366-AR (incandescent only) or C9WY-13A366-AL (LEDs or incandescent)
Unfortunately, the superbrightleds.com Tower LED bulbs are no longer compatible with our cars.
After many years, they changed their vendor and will no longer work correctly - they do not have sufficient isolation between the brake/turn signal element and running light element. 
New to the group, thanks for the add.
I just purchased a 68 base cougar and the left turn signal quit working in the rear. Non-tilt column. Dash indicator is solid. brake lights and hazard work fine. right signal works as it should. It has been converted to the solid state system. I have combed through a lot of these posts with no luck.
I have power on both the 458 and 458B wires at the column connector. I have power in the trunk at the 440 white wire of the white connector when the signal switch is activated and no power when switch is off (battery voltage, connector disconnected). I have power at the 441 Violet wire at the black 4 pin in trunk for right signal as well. Everything seems to have power and grounds as it should. I swapped the L and R signal wires at the column connector with no change other than putting left signal on worked the right signal lights; and right signal kept the indicator solid and no turn signals (front nor back). swapped the wires back with original results. Swapped the 440 white and 441 violet in the trunk near the solid state unit and I have left signals working sequentially with the right signal on and nothing on the right with the left signal on. I suspect the sequencing unit is bad. I have a receipt from the previous owner having it installed 14 months ago C8WY-13A366AS. Am I on track here or just dancing around another issue? I laugh because at this point I can probably make the lights work with a 3 way toggle wired to the trunk or some relays. Just looking for some verification before I buy a new solid state sequencer. Thanks.
New to the group, thanks for the add. Could not edit my previous post so here it is all cleaned up.
I just purchased a 68 base cougar and the left turn signal quit working in the rear. Non-tilt column. Dash indicator is solid. brake lights and hazard work fine. right signal works as it should. It has been converted to the solid state system with the plastic case rather than the metal box. I have combed through a lot of these posts with no luck.
I have power on both the 458 and 458B wires at the column connector. I have power in the trunk at the 440 white wire of the white connector when the signal switch is activated and no power when switch is off (battery voltage, connector disconnected). I have power at the 441 Violet wire at the black 4 pin in trunk for right signal as well. Everything seems to have power and grounds as it should.
Long story short. Spoke to Vic today who is very knowledgeable and kind. He asked what voltage I had under load at the orange/green wire at the large flat 4 pin connector in the trunk. 1-2 volts with left signal and battery voltage with right signal. He suspected high resistance in the system. I checked all connectors and turn signal switch to no avail. Found the turn signal indicator relay is now a 4 pin NC relay with wiring going to it making no sense of a circuit. Utilamtely I removed the relay and jumped the orange/black from the turn signal switch harness to the orange/green to the trunk 4 pin connector and all is good. He also pointed out that the hazard relay all jumper wired in and hot to the touch was no longer needed with the plastic box system. So I suspect that the turn signal relay is not needed as well.
Everything is mostly working well but I will get the fix to make the indicators flash rather than flicker and I believe the front turn bulbs are wired wrong as they are dim and the markers are bright (grounds are good)
Thank you Vic.
I feel like this is a dead thread. So, the 3 pin turn signal indicator relay was the high resistance as they put the Orange/black from turn signal switch to the relay solenoid on one side and split the orange/green power to the trunk between the other side of the solenoid coil and the pass through switched power, the other switched power was the violet exciter wire! I installed a normally open relay with the violet to the coil with other side of coil to ground and the pass through is the oranges. The situation with the front lights somebody intentionally swapped the turn signal and marker light wires causing the bright markers to outshine the dim turn signals.
Welcome to the forum! Once the factory wiring has been hacked and relays added, troubleshooting gets really difficult. But you are in good hands with Vic helping you.
Luckily, they didn’t hack anything. They just made jumper wires to add all of the relays in. So it was easy removal thank goodness.