A potential buyer would usually like to see a Marti report. You can get an inexpensive one and have it emailed to you.
yes, thanks, I may do that.
Bad link.
Yes, ECCC, err, I mean Al might be interested! 
photobucket said 1st link should work but no go.
this one works, and once in you’ll see others. trunk pics to follow:
It’s a nice looking car. The link works fine for me.
Steven
thanks a lot. 1st link didn’t work and i deleted it, but not b/f mr. bundy tried it.
there is now a walkaround vid on the site (i’ve since replaced the bad left t/s bulb), and i just took a driving vid as well, should be up later.
pls PM me with serious interest.
again, i am in San Diego, CA 92011.
I agree with Steven, nice looking car. My X code came out of San Diego. Any pictures of the underside/engine bay?
there should be a separate photo album in P
hotobucket called undercarriage and engine.
if you click on " recent" you will see the other albums including the video
video link: Photo Storage
pics taken at dusk with wire wheel covers: Photo Storage
interior pics: Photo Storage
undercarriage/engine bay pics: Photo Storage
it may be where I live, but someone is going to get a lot of car for 10,500! Sure it needs a little work but it is nice!
I may have just missed it, but does this car have the original drive train?
On the short block any idea if it came from a company like AER or was it built at a machine shop? Also any idea how many miles it’s been since the install?
addressing the last 2 posts, it was a Pep Boys reman short block bought 7/99, but car mileage unknown at that time. When the car was sold in '03, it had 116k on the odo. per bill of sale, and currently shows 117k and change. I bought it from guy who had it approx 10 yrs, who got it from a bro-in-law. Pep boys docs show CID at 4.050" x 3.780", and “352” appears where it should, so no question it’s a stnd bore and stroke 390. above the “352” there’s a “59,” and i thought i saw a “DIF 41” where the date casting should be, but i may re-check that. the owner at that time had the foresight to remove the little engine ID tag, which shows 390 built 12/66 and 67 model yr.
other receipts support motor work in summer of '99, including fuel and oil pumps and overhaul kit from Summit, and a machine shop inv. for surfacing and drilling of “Ford 390 Head GT.” The fp still looks new, and the PO seemed to suggest it was, but if it’s the same as per the receipt, it’s 15 yrs old, but has seen little mileage. PO said car was garaged whole time and only driven to preserve tires, fluid, etc., and i don’t doubt it, since he lived near the desert and the interior woulda been toast if left outdoors, and the tires are not out of round or cracked, and the receipt shows they were bought in '02. Full 3" duals were '02.
regarding the heads, “fomoco” is present pass side back, and PO said they were “special.” i hadn’t intended to pop a VCover, but now i’m curious and may do that. the fronts are bare, and there’s no room to check the backs.
PO provided old PO pics showing engine bay and heads, but i can’t id them from that, 'cept to say the rocker arms appear stock. these pics clearly show an intact AC system, but PO said he got car w/o that stuff.
i thought ford didn’t put VINs on drivetrain till '68, but if there’s one on the trans i’ll look for it.
my own hunch is that the clutch inexplicably wasn’t done when the motor was, and when it showed signs of wear, PO drove it less and less, to the point of not registering it for 2 yrs. the test drive was short b/c it wasn’t registered, and he mashed it in 1st and it went like a BOOH and filled the cabin with rubber smoke, and nothing seemed odd when he grabbed 2nd just as aggressively. since the rest of the car checked out, I didn’t press for more of a mechanical shakedown/test drive.
I’ll shoot a vid of a little drive, but don’t really want to get too aggressive given the clutch.
prolly more than you asked for, but hope this helps…
…BTW i realize that many of you are not near CA, but i have done long distance car deals in the past, both as buyer and seller, and can provide references as to transactional trustworthiness.
…update: gonna stick to orig plan and sell in spring, with clutch and other stuff mentioned being done.
i’ll prolly go with RAM 3-finger/arm clutch kit, and may look into putting a posi and better-geared 3rd member in the 9 inch. if anyone in the so cal area has one ready to go, i may be interested (but no gears numerically higher than 3.73)
also, trans ID tag= RUG M1 = wide ratio 28-spline toploader for 1967 390 engine, so I’m taking the position the trans is orig to car.
thanks for all the info and positive responses.
Yopu might also want to check into the Centerforce dual friction clutchs. Multi finger is a little easier on the clutch pedal leg.
yes, I have diaphram type clutch on a different 4 speed car, and i know what you mean, but for purposes of selling and maintaining originality, I’m thinking that staying stock (3 finger) will be more attractive. plus i saw elsewhere that some hard core Ford guys think that diaphram clutches are intended for GM stuff…
anyone else wanna weigh in as to type and brand. assume the 390 4v is making stock pwr, headers, wide ratio toploader, 2.75 open axle.
thanks again!
A LOT I would say. Made this switch on the Isabel build and love it. With the stock Long style clutches I ran over the years, I broke every piece of linkage at one time or another. The 11" CF DF is “like budda” and grips too (so far, we’ll see how it goes with a built 408C).
ok folks, the following is now new:
- Zoom 3 arm/oem style clutch kit, T/O and pilot bearings
- resurfaced flywheel
- both u-joints
- trans mount
- heater core - blows real hot
- engine oil
- trans oil
- carpet, high quality molded and mass-backed
- shift boot
car is a monster w/the new clutch, and the rear gear is 3.00:1, not 2.75, as a result of doing the “spin” test. factory clock works and has not been converted to quartz, as do the 11 interior/trunk light bulbs.
price is $11,500 obo.
thanks, and I’ll post in the for sale forum as well.
That’s seems like a really good price. Good luck with your sale.
Steven
Odd ratio for a 9", more common was a 2:79. Either is a “Clutch killer”. If you want to spin the tires w/o burning the clutch you should install a lower gear set such as 3:89, 4:10 etc.
Edit-nevermind. Good luck with the sale.