If you’re going to start it right after install, just some engine oil so it’s not dry. Or cam lobe break in lube or pre-assembly lube works fine.
Today was laundry list day. In total, I replaced the tank, soft fuel lines, and fuel pump, and I changed the oil and tranny fluid. Unlike previous projects I’ve done, I actually took pictures along the way.
New tank is in! Reattaching the filler neck was pretty fun. I lost one of the screws that hold the neck to the body.
The sending unit looked perfect. It was replaced about ten years ago by my brother and our dad’s cousin.
The fuel pump was quite the experience. I found whoever opened it up before didn’t put a gasket under it. It was just silicone. Now, there’s a real gasket.
I finally got everything put together and fired her up. It was running well, I did a walk-around, then I saw the carb spitting gas from the back bowl fuel line. I quickly shut it down and started on pulling the carb. After draining it, I pulled the back bowl and found this:
Apparently, last week when I took it apart, the fuel line was not properly lined up and bit off a chunk of the o-ring. I found an assorted o-ring kit in my dad’s old tool chest, and there was a winner in there. I threw it all back together, started the engine again, and I watched the carb like a hawk for about five minutes. It stayed dry.
Here is the chunk of o-ring that got bit off. It got stopped in the needle (is that the right term? I’m still familiarizing myself with all these new terms).
After the car ran for ten to twenty minutes, we took it down to the gas station to put some gas in it. We drove down our road and back before returning home. I think the tank is leaking from the sending unit seal. I may have seen a drip, but I’m not sure. I used vaseline, but it still could have shifted. I’ll check that later.
I got done just in time for our pre-marriage counseling, so we took it to that. In total, I put close to thirty miles on the car tonight. It rides nicely, it’s loud, the transmission shifts from first to second hard, and it tracks fairly straight considering the issue with the drag link. Brakes are sufficient. Nothing too great. I plan on taking it to the side job tomorrow morning. It’ll be a short drive, and I’ll pick refill my gas can to bring home.
My fiancée loved it!
Me after we got home.
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Nice work! Yes, getting the filler neck back in and lined up was a PITA on mine too. Welcome to the world of old Cougars where there is always something leaking and another project waiting - lol! But those drives around after fixing something and the smiles on your faces make it all worthwhile. Cougars sure do attract a lot of attention on the road these days, even from young people. Didn’t used to be that way, and sure makes it more fun.
If the gas tank is leaking from the sending unit for goodness sakes don’t put the car in the garage!!!
Unfortunately the best and easiest way to install that part is with the tank laying upside down on a work bench. Hard to be successful when the tank is in the car.
I’m not new to leaks. I’ve been a jeep owner for 13 years, now 
According to my fiance, on our way to the gas station while passing the highway off-ramp, a guy turned into the oncoming lane to head west, but he just about gave himself whiplash watching us.
No, absolutely not. I have gas cans in there and they stink enough. That is how I installed the unit, but the little alignment ears did not engage the slots in the tank, so driving the lock ring home must have twisted the whole unit.
I drove the cougar to work this morning. I felt bad for the neighbors while I fired it up at 4:30am (The car currently has glass packs. I will change them when I can afford to change out all of the piping, too). The gauge lights don’t light up, and the turn signal cuts in and out. I believe the turn signal is more of an issue with the steering wheel orientation. It’s a good ways off. Once the new drag link is installed and I rebuild the ram, I’ll get the front end aligned. Speaking of alignments, I found a receipt for one my dad got in 1985. It only cost $25. Of course, inflation hasn’t done any favors. The new engine cost my dad a bit over $700 all said and done, back then.
Overall, I’m happy with how the car rides. It has a lot more power than traction (oops), yet it’s still comfortable and controllable. I’m definitely curious what it makes for power. I’ll be putting some insulation between the back seat and the trunk to quiet the cabin down a bit. We (I) have a hard time hearing each other while driving.
It’s still running a bit rough. The idle is not exactly rhythmic like it was when we brought it home. I have the mix screws set and a fairly steady vacuum of 16in-Hg. Any tips on anything else to check out? It is getting better as I run it.
I got to experience vapor lock for the first time, yesterday. That was cool. Would a steel fuel line all the way to the carb help this? Right now, the line changes to rubber line just above the water pump. I found it was slightly touching the block, so I pulled it away. The soft line and filter do not contact anywhere.
About the gas tank leak. I’ve had a piece of cardboard under the tank, and I’ve been checking for stains. I have seen nothing, so I’m thinking I saw something else on the driveway. I filled the tank yesterday, and the ground is still dry underneath the car.
I’ve made a decision for my new tires. I’ll be going with the 215 sized Coopers. The 235’s look awesome on the car, but we took a couple friends who will be in our wedding for a ride, and the tires rub the fenders when we hit bigger bumps. The full tank made it worse. We found my dad installed Monroe air shocks in the car, so I’ll put a little air in them to see if that improves the situation.
I’ve put about 65 miles on the car, so far. Lots of smiles have been had.
The fuel line should be steel from the pump to the carburetor for safety’s sake. Rule of thumb - and an NHRA safety rule - is no more than 12" of rubber fuel line in the entire car.
Unlikely you had vapor lock. More likely dirt in the fuel system or an air leak in the line from tank to pump.
Good tire choice - been very happy with my 215 Coopers.
Agree you need the steel fuel line like factory - all the way from fuel pump to carb fuel filter.
My car was vapor locking due to the engine overheating. It would happen whenever the fuel pump temp went above 200 deg F. Now that the overheating is fixed, fuel pump runs about 175 deg max, and no more vapor lock.
Ok, I’ll get the fuel line taken care of.
As far as engine temp, it seemed to settle out at 200F. I found a t-stat marked 160 in my box of goods, so maybe I’ll swap it in to see if that helps. I can at least see what’s in it. I’m used to seeing 210F on my gauges, so 200F didn’t raise any concern to me.
Not unusual on mine to see block and head temps of 210 deg F max on a hot summer day, but that is getting pretty hot for coolant temp, and definitely too hot for the fuel pump.
Oh, and good idea to pull thermostat and make sure it fully opens at stamped temp (which should be 180 deg, not 160 deg).
But looking again at your post, 200 deg coolant temp sounds reasonable. Maybe it wasn’t vapor lock like Royce noted?
You might search the forum for discussion of air shocks. The consensus seems to be that the structure where the shocks attach at the top is inadequate and can be damaged by the extra load created.
Good to know. I’ll look into that, too.
The other day, I tore the carb apart again and was sure to clean and blow out the idle circuits very well. After that, my fiancee got home and helped set the idle circuits. She sat in the car and held the brake, but the vacuum was low and all over. The needle bounced between 5 and 12 in-hg. It was hot and stuffy in the garage (plus 95ish outside), so we shut her down and went inside.
Fast forward to today, I decided to check the plugs. They were all black and smelled gassy. I’m not sure what the gap is supposed to be, but .054” seemed a bit big. I knocked them down to .044” and cleaned up the electrodes. Then, I started it up. It threw its usual fit of not wanting to run with the choke on or off and having to touch the pedal down a bit to keep it running. It idled on its own after 30 seconds, or so. It’s idling fairly well, now. I reset the mixture screws at two turns out, so it is a bit on the rich side. Maybe tomorrow we’ll throw the vacuum gauge on it again. I’m just happy that it idled well.
Rich smell out the exhaust is often caused by late timing. The late timing makes for hot running temperatures, bad gas mileage, and lots of unburned gas out the tailpipe.
With either Pertronix or factory points the plug gap needs to be .035".
Should I rotate the distributor until it sounds good at idle, then? I don’t have a timing light, yet.
As for the ignition, the box says it’s a napa branded system. I’m not sure what the specs are. When I do new plugs, I’ll set them to .035”.
This is how she’s idling:
https://youtube.com/shorts/HDEP0CsqYBA?feature=share
Adjusting the air/fuel screws doesn’t do much. Vacuum steadied at 14-16in-hg, but dropped about 5” with each miss. It won’t stay running when the idle is this low and I shift into forward or reverse. Am I at the point of needing to pull valve covers and checking everything over?
Here’s a few shots of the ignition modulator, distributor, and coil, too. I don’t know the specs of anything.
I plan on not touching it for a good week. I’m frustrated and need to regroup.
pick up a timing light first rather then just trying to turn the distributor by ear.
That’s all 1980 - 1987- ish Ford Duraspark stuff. Pretty reliable, about the same power as a points type setup so .035" plug gap.
I can relate to taking a break to regroup. I know you’ve cleaned it out, but mine idled just like that, and would die when I put it in gear when it had sediment in the carb idle circuits. Had to open mine up and clean it out three separate times.