In the '80s when 351W performance parts were not as plentiful as today, I built a 351 with a Comp Cam 280H for a 302.
No issues at all - just wire it for a 302.
I have to wonder why he did that, though - with so many 351W grinds available today.
When I sold that car, the buyer later called me and said he was doing wires on the car and couldn’t get it to run right. I had forgotten to tell him it was a 302 cam.
When I bought my 69 351W it came with a cam that required the 302 firing order so not a lie.
Carlisle!
That cam should have just barely enough sound for a good ear to say “there’s not a stock cam in it”. Those specs are what would be considered an RV type of cam. Just a little over stock. For roughness in a new engine, I’d look towards timing and carb. Hopefully there isn’t a mechanical problem like a flattened lobe. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Not sure if we’d have enough time during lunch in Fishkill to make any adjustments. If you are going to Carlisle, I can take plenty of time to adjust ignition timing and such. My tuning tools are always with me at Carlisle. If you can make lunch and not Carlisle, I will try to get there early, like 10–ish. But cannot guarantee early arrival a couple weeks in advance.
You are so generous. I hope to make it and give you a heads up. Carlisle is not an option this year for me unfortunately.
In the meantime, any advice you or others have about settings for carb etc I will pass along. I’ve got the 2v rebuilt.
OK so latest update is that the idle is still rough and a couple mechanics are convinced the carb is the culprit. Idle screws wont make the mixture rich enough regardless of how much they are turned. May be something gunked up in there. Given that the cafb has been rebuilt already once, I’m wondering whether replacing it with a more modern carb would be advisable? One that can be more easily serviced? Not sure the Autolite carbs were strong performers back in the day either. Unfortunately, it’s a 2V so it’s not easy to swap out when most carbs sold now are 4Vs, unless I replace the intake manifold as well.
The Autolite is probably the best 2v carb. If it is carb related, chances are an air bleed is clogged up. Remove both idle mix screws. Using the tube on can of carb clean, spray some carb clean in the hole that that mix screws came from. Then use compressed air into the holes to blow out the clog. Reinstall the screws. Seat----don’t tighten. Then back off each two full turns as initial adjustment. Start then fine adjust when up to operating temp.
Retarded ignition timing may cause rough running symptoms.
I have 3 2V carbs sitting in my garage…I grabbed them from a ford guy who was shutting down his shop and moving to FL. He was positive they all came off Cougars… not sure on engine though… Happy to figure out if one will fit send me a PM if interested. (Also grabbed most of a 289 engine if someone needs it)
the correct Autolite 2100 for a 351w would have a sunburst with the number 1.23 in it.
OK I’ll give the carb cleaner a chance. Mike thank you I may be in touch.
Can someone tell me the correct autolite 2100 Venturi size for an H code 69 (351 2v)? Is it 1.08 like the one I have in it or 1.23 like I see on the WCCC site? The cfm is pretty modest for both but the 1.23 is certainly bigger.
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9zf-9510-b.html?sessionthemeid=26
D’oh I retract the question, which i see was answered above.
Ok so sorry to ask but what would be the problem, if any, with using a 1.08 on a 351? It doesn’t have as much cfm. Would that pose a problem?
Your miles per gallon might go up.
Your smiles per gallon would definitely go down.