A car with no name.

Dan, if you have your new grill pieces P.C.'d and these warp too, put the doors in the oven at 300ish degrees for about 30 min. before you try to work them again. You need to “soften” them up a bit 1st.

Does the pc get tacky when it is reheated?

The bake out stage should be hotter than the curing stage. Otherwise, the expelled impurities will get trapped and cause bubbles. In my experience, 400F is the minimum bake out while 350 is the minimum curing temp. Lower than that and it won’t flow out. Between the bake out and the cure, the part needs to cool before you apply the powder. If the part is too hot when you spray the powder, you will get orange peal. When applying a second coat, the first coat softens. You don’t have to pre bake it.

So I finally got a little garage time and went to button up the brake lines on the mustangsteve gt conversion. I got it all set up to my satisfaction and went to put my new wheels on and…wait for it…they didn’t fit. Mfer. I picked out some sweet wheels too! They are too flat for the 2010 mustang disc brakes. Anyways, anyone local looking for a sweet set of wheels and tires? Pristine and still stickered…zero miles. Adam,…adam,…need a way to say good job for finishing your degree?

I hate when that happens. The brakes I want to use have quite a bit of caliper overhang (about 5/8"). A wheel with a flat profile won’t do me any good.

The 2010 Mustang brakes will work with a standard 4.5 back spacing, won’t they and lets say a 16 inch wheel?

They say 17". But Adam is right it is about the back profile. These have plenty of backspacing at 4.75 and 5.5, they are just too flat inside to clear the bulge of the mustang caliper. They would be great with drums for sure. They are 17 x 8 and 17 x 9.5 with 245 in front and 285 in back.

I am bummed about this one. Oh well,…moving on.

So if you had a wheel Like the Torque thrust II’s with a more radiused spoke then you would be fine? Good looking wheel, I would be upset as well. What about a wheel spacer, do you have enough room for a 1/8 or 1/4 thick spacer?

I considered those rims! Bummer they don’t work with your brakes. Question, though, how’d the 9.5" width work on the back with the fender lip?

According to MustangSteve the Torq Thrust 2s don’t fit either. But that is the idea I am going for more arch on the back of the spokes. I could put a spacer in but I should have longer studs to be safe. I didn’t get as far as checking the rear rim for fit. I plan to roll the fenders though. I could check if anyone is interested in the rims. Right now I don’t have anything to set the front end down on, so I have a problem to solve.

I just got home from a little vacation and got back to work on the car. While I was gone, I ordered all of the gear to plumb my disc brakes. I got my wheel spacers in so I can test fit the tires with spacers. Hopefully, I won’t have to buy new wheels and tires.

I went out to Sacramento to Pacific Powdercoating to get some more coating done. The last batch cost me $600 which seemed high to me at the time. I took all of the bumper brackets(which were chromed and stood out like a sore thumb in the wheel well?!?), fender braces, tail lamp bezels, dash and package tray trim etc and all kinds of trim and they told me it would be under their minimum $175. Oh well live an learn. I will keep you guys posted.

Then I went out to Sacramento Chrome and Paint to check them out. They do the chrome paint process WCCC has been trying to develop. I saw them chroming some plastic and it looked awesome in person. I decided that is the way I will go.

Tomorrow I plan to be in the garage all day come hell or high water. Hopefully I will have some evidence I was out there. Like a car sitting on wheels instead of jack stands.

electric headlight door conversion Kits. catheadlights@hotmail.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkiDIlGAW_E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RDin3Ttv2dg

I pulled the oem master cylinder and distribution block. I plumbed the new master and am converting to power brakes. I got as far as removing the old pedal, pulling the export brace to get access etc. I still need to modify the firewall, put in the booster, install the pedal, and plumb the front brakes.

That is a disc brake distribution block from an 83 Thunderbird. It has an integrated proportioning valve. I don’t know which of the silver bolts is for the prop valve.

Got a power pedal and hangar refurbished and ready to go back in. I slowed down because I want to run wire wheel around under the dash / inner firewall and maybe spray with por 15 before I button it all back up.

Awsome dash face. Where did your get it or did you redue it yourself?

Thanks Dave. I made it in my little wood shop. It will get a glassy finish to match my steering wheel. I might carry some of that wood into the console too.

By the way, that booster and master combo pictured above did not fit between the shock tower and the firewall. I ended up getting an ssbc pancake style unit to fit.

Got a metal work project back a couple of weeks ago. I haven’t posted in a while. I had the front bumper shaved. Here is a few pictures. Now that that is done I have to have the back one done and then off they go to chrome.

Can’t believe you guys didn’t notice, that is the FRONT bumper!..See anything missing?

Nice job on losing the bolts. If my bumpers weren’t immaculate I’d do the same thing before having them rechromed. I can’t tell from the angle of the pic… but did you also have the lower lip redone to take out the relief around the license plate? Last before chroming, you could always cut them to tuck them closer to the body since you’re going to rechome them anyway. All the big name builders like Troy and Foose do that. :thumbup: If I shave my bolts next time around, I’ll do that too.

I saw it, you did a fantastic job filling in the center and bolt holes. What did you use to finish sand and level it out? Are you going to weld the brackets to the bumper and have the whole thing chromed together with the mounting brackets?
What was the cut out for anyway? It’s not really in the way of a license plate or even access to undoing the hood release.

I do see now that the license plate would go up high enough for it to be hidden some. If your in a state that doesn’t require a front plate, this is perfect!