I’m still wanting to hear from someone that has installed the Tim Meyer T stat and plate. I want to know the correct steps to do it please.
Do you know if the stock restrictor is still in place?
I installed the restrictor in my car using a large socket and impact extension as a driver. I cleaned the block casting area well, lined up and seated the restrictor making sure it was correctly placed then drove it in to position until it was fully seated. I cleaned up the t-stat housing as well with a wire wheel then installed the high flow thermostat and gasket before installing the housing and bolting it in place.
I did find a parts store that stocked a correct standard Cleveland t-stat with the hat and bought one as a back-up as it was cheap.
As far as I know the stock restrictor plate is still in place. How do I remove the stock plate? Does the gasket go above or below the thermostat?
I used a thin HF pry bar like one of these to remove the stock restrictor. I wanted to use the new t-stat and restrictor as a set.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pry-bars/3-pc-pry-bar-set-68339.html
I put the curved foot through the hole and GENTLY pushed while rotating the opposite end of the bar to apply force all the way around the restrictor. Lifted it right out.
From what I recall, the thermostat sits in a recess in the block and the gasket goes between the t-stat and the housing. I used some shellac style gasket goo on both sides of the gasket and popped it in position.
wawazat, the stock restrictor just pulls straight up? Then I just push the new restrictor back into the block and then t-stat, gasket and housing?
The restrictor is press-fit vertically in to the block casting. I inserted the curved foot of the HF pry bar through the hole in the center and placed the curved tip under the outer edge of the restrictor toward the outer edge then pulled on the pointed end of the pry bar. I rotated it in to spots around the restrictor then slowly worked it up out of the hole. I cleaned the cast iron bore it was set in to then set the new restrictor in place ensuring it was evenly seated. I placed my impact extension with a 32mm or 36mm socket on the new restrictor and drove it home with a ball peen hammer.
Do a Google image search on 351 Cleveland thermostat restrictor plate and you can see what it looks like before you drain the coolant and open things up. The t-stat sits in the machined recess in the black and the gasket goes between the t-stat and the water neck.
wawazat, I pulled the original plate out tonight…
I’ll clean the seat good then I’ll line it up and use a big socket as you suggested. I’ll get a new thermostat gasket too. I’m also going to go ahead and replace both radiator hoses and clamps and maybe even a radiator cap while I’m at it. So then I just drop the new thermostat down on top of the new plate, install gasket and housing???
I sandblasted the thermostat housing and repaint it to boot.
I’m with Cougar Bill on this one, I believe that using water in the cooling system has created a lot of rust scale and is blocking the radiator.
That rust scale is going to continually break of inside the water jackets which in turn will always re-block your radiator.
It will take several high pressure radiator flushes, (even removing top and bottom radiator tanks to clean) over a period of several months to resolve this problem.
I really don’t like the color of your engine coolant.
Peter 
I need to do a good engine flush on mine as well. Something beyond just my drain / fill process. But I live in a neighborhood, so I can’t just roll it out into the street and run a hose through it until it flows clear. Local wildlife and pets would probably not appreciate that >.>
My 67 GT with 40k miles had to have the motor pulled, hot tanked and reassembled. No way around it, lots of scale if they sit for years. Quite the expense and hassle but you get to detail everything, new freeze plugs, gaskets, freshen up the heads and she is good to go another 40 years!
Well, until I’m at the point to repaint the entire car and pull the motor for a complete rebuild, I’ll have to just flush the system for now. I’ll roll it out of the shop and flush it till I can get it as clear as possible. I’m out in the country so not an issue for me.
Maybe try this stuff to help out.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-tc001
Since you don’t plan on pulling the motor and doing a tear down, hot tank, and rebuild you’re doing the best you can with the flush. I can’t offer a what works best as my motor was rebuilt in 2015 and the passages were clean when I pulled the restrictor and incorrect thermostat installed by PO as part of my comprehensive cooling system rebuild.
When you’re done with the flush (assuming you do it with thermostat and restrictor removed) clean the block where the restrictor is mounted and drive it in place. Then reassemble thermostat housing with tstat, gasket and sealant and close up the system. Add coolant/water mix and run car to heat up. Top off the coolant as needed after the car cools down.
Canted 393, that stuff looks good. I just ordered some from Amazon and I’ll have it in two days and try it out. Thanks for the tip.
Wawazat, thanks for all your help also. I’ll get the the restrictor seat cleaned well and get the restrictor plate back in place and I’m going to replace both radiator hoses also. I’ll do a real good flushing a few times with the TermoCure that canted 393 recommends and I’ll report back how the cooling turns out.
I hot tanked my (1967) 289 when I rebuilt it, I believed I had done everything correct, new oversized (351 A/C) radiator, new everything. That block had been sitting for a long time and never been used with coolant.
After rebuild, it would over heat what ever I did. I took it to the radiator guy. He asked what had been done and if it had been hot tanked. He explained to me that hot tanking the block will not get rid of the rust scale, only loosen it, which in turn makes it break off later when the engine is running and it would need to be flushed several times over several months before all the crud could be cleared out. That is what we did, and each time he showed me what he was able to remove from my blocked radiator.
That’s why I’m stressing the importance of this, to save anyone my dilemma’s and all the months I spent chasing this problem.
Hope it helps someone.
Peter