What I need is a $1500 well-equipped X- or S-code with a swiss cheese roof and rotted out under-structure that still has good quarters. That’s a car I can make a convertible out of and not feel bad about because no one else (except ECI Bob) would even try to restore it.
I never heard back from that guy after a few posts on MC.net. I tried to get him to join the New England club but he never did. So I have no idea if he still owns the car.
If the right candidate came along, I’d probably buy it even if I wasn’t ready to do the project right away. I’d like to do one for my wife, since she has taken a liking to BBCat but still wants a convertible. If not a Cougar, she eventually would want a Mustang convertible.
I talked to Dave tonight about this and he told me he will be using a 2K epoxy primer that flashes off in 8 hours. He said it has a hardener in it as well. He agreed with you that not allowing it to flash before putting the vinyl top on would cause the solvents to interfere with the vinyl top adhesive.
Sounds good, i only use 2K epoxy´s too, and all of the brands i´ve been using, they all have around 8 hour flashtime but that time is for going to the next level, either you have to continue with a wet build up within those 8 hours, or if it gets over 8 hours, you´ll need to sand/scuff it before going with the next level.
But all those products are never fully flashed and ready for total closing like a vinyl top etc are after 8 hours, most paint producers claim a 1 month flash off time before decorating it, like putting on big stickers, like commercials, etc on a fresh paint, and so with a vinyl top that gets glued on, and is meant to be there hopefully the rest of its life, and to look great and not cause any trouble down the road, i still recommend around 3 month flash off time before putting it on.
On the buses i paint, we usually decorate those within 15-24 hours after they are painted, and when we get them back in for repair at a later point, and try to get off the decoration, we always peel off the vinyl decoration with the paint still sticking onto the vinyl, so we always need to repaint the buses when they are in for a change in the decoration, the best part is, that the bus companies have to pay for that repaint too, as they demand that we put on the decorations so soon after paint, so we do not give them any warranty on the jobs, all on their own risk and dollar
Hey Bill, where you at in this big ol’ world? I was told of a Cougar in this area for sale. Was told “It’s from Texas, needs a roof.” The guy who told me said the floors, qtrs., trunk and drop offs were all good, but the car was rotted under the vinyl top. Pretty sure he said it’s an AC XR-7.
I’m in Massachusetts, but there is a roof much closer to you. Phil Parcells has one just west of Rochester, NY that he offered to me. Scott Gregory was a lot closer so I bought Scott’s shell for the roof.
BTW, the roof on BBCat is repaired and now I’m just waiting for my scheduled slot at the trim shop for installation of the vinyl top. At Don Rush’s suggestion, I went to SMS Auto Fabrics for the vinyl top, which I now have in hand. We’ll see how that compares with the repro from JCC, which is what was on the car before. The rechromed quarter and vent window frames are installed, the restored steering wheel is back from Best in Show, and the center horn ring is back from Nu-Chrome. Now I’m just waiting on New England Trim to install the vinyl top and finish restoring the horn pad. With luck, the rechromed dash bezels will be back from Instrument Specialties while New England Trim has the car and I can have them install those, along with the replated and detailed dash emblem from Paul’s Chrome.
I also installed the Scott Drake sill plates from WCCC and they are absolutely gorgeous. I can’t wait to get BBCat out to the shows this summer, starting with Carlisle in June.
No worries, but CatVert and now BBCat have spoiled me. If I do another conversion project, tilt/tilt-away is a must-have option. I’d love to find a 390 car with that option and too much rust for a normal restoration. Since most of the understructure has to change (for the factory-style approach, anyway), I’d be OK with floors that are shot. I just don’t want to have to deal with bad quarters.