Brake pedal - manual to power, is it me ??


As you may have read on the forum on some of my many other threads, i’m in the process of converting a manual drum to power disc brake, on a 67 with manual transmission.
I’m having major headache/frustration on the brake pedal thing. The kit’s instructions are literally “remove the manual brake pedal and install the new one” … like it’s that easy !! :wall: :confused:
Looked at the shop manual and it’s not much more helpful to be honest …

Did anyone go through this on a manual transmission ? any tip ?
Every video i’ve found on youtube really glosses over the process … very frustrating … only useful one i’ve found is autorestomod episode 157-158 where they take the dash cluster out, do I have to do that ?

I couldn’t figure out how to remove the clutch spring, and I tried to pull the pedal anyway, came out of the first bushing but now it’s jammed sideways as the spring is still in tension … so I feel I only made things worse. About to pull the steering column out and then unbolt the whole pedal bracket but not sure I can even remove it from under the dash ?

Thanks in advance for any help

You have to take it apart quite a bit. I replaced the bushing on a 70 with bearings I remember having to remove most of the braces and also the dash cluster to get it all apart. It was a few years so I have forgoten the pain in the A that it was. Someone might have a better way though.

I just rebuilt the pedal hanger and clutch bushings on my 68. You have to remove the pedal hanger to take the clutch spring off. On my 68 it’s held on by the brake booster studs, two screws at the firewall end, and two column bracket nuts. Once the hanger is out of the car the clutch spring comes off by pushing the clutch pedal all the way down, past where the firewall would stop it.

Thanks ! How do you get the hanger out from underneath, will it clear or do I have to remove other stuff? Parking brake handle?Dash cluster? I’d rather avoid if I can…
Sounds like the steering column has to come off because of the 2 bracket nuts - can I just remove the sleeve or do I have to disconnect the actual column all the way to the steering box?

I was in the process of removing the column but had to stop as I need to get hold of a steering wheel puller.

Aahh just saw your other recent threads - should have done a quick search first!!

I admire your assessment “Royce - thanks for the advice, it was as simple and easy as you said it would be”
This is miserable for me hahaha, I’m a big guy and I’m just struggling so much, I spent hours already trying to figure that thing out… The shop manual is misleading and useless!

Having the column, parking brake handle, and the driver’s seat out will probably be necessary. I had all those out for my project.

67 is totally different from later Cougars.
WCCC has a video on doing this conversion yourself, or you will need to change the pedal hanger from the manual version to the power version. Either way the steering column is going to need to come out.
Good luck.

Like above you should pull the whole hanger out, it’s easier to get under the dash by having the seat out too.
Leave the wheel on the column and take the complete unit out of the car.

No reason to disturb the instrument cluster.

'67 and '68 are identical except there are fewer pieces on the '67 because it doesn’t have a collapsible steering column. The two screws on the driver side vent control also hold the parking brake handle in place. The parking brake handle and vent control, steering column and driver seat all need to come out.

The pivot bushings on a clutch equipped car are likely shot. Do yourself a favor and order the Scott Drake bearing kit for the brake and clutch pedals.

looks like i’m utterly useless. 3h later and i’m still nowhere. I turned the steering column into a pile of scrap metal though. lol
the only piece of the steering that’s still on the car and not broken (yet) is the steering shaft but it looks like this will have to go as well ?? is it done best via the 12 point bolt ?

OK it’s out !! took the steering shaft out - I wish I had seen DieselD’s message before I dove back into this this morning haha

so I found the bracket bushing are shot, as predicted by Royce, even the metallic part that pressed onto the bracket is destroyed (to be fair it’s probably me when I tried to remove the thing under tension with the spring) but it was probably weak before. I guess I need to stop there, and order some parts …

You shouldn’t have taken the whole column apart.
Once it was loosened inside the car, then you undo the 12 point on the rag joint at the steering box. Then finish the removal of fasteners inside and pull the whole column straight out toward you. You may need a friend for help as you will probably need to work on the rag joint to break it free of the steering box. Hopefully you have the plate at the bottom of the column inside the car undone from the firewall, as you won’t be able to get the whole column out of the car.
Just to be sure that you know… the bracket that holds the pedal assembly to the firewall and lower dash is different between a non power brake car and a power brake car in 67 only. You will either need to get the proper power brake version or modify the one you have. The brake pedals mount in different locations between power and non power brake 67 Cougars.

It’s all much easier when you have accurate detailed instructions like yours :slight_smile: … Frustrating that the kit and the shop manual are so useless … thanks for all your help folks.

Regarding the bracket, what is the difference ? what I’ve read and seen online is that some brackets don’t have the upper holes pre-drilled. Mine has some upper holes, are there any other differences I should be aware of ? I did a test installation of the pedal and noticed that the new brake pedal doesn’t align with the clutch :frowning: see photo in the link below. I don’t think it would be a problem ? but doesn’t look very good. Could the hole be in the wrong location ?!Ah_UnD0RcCuAneVA63cMajhLDmoCrA

So on NPD, a hanger is just $40 … and the zinc bushing repair kit is $37 …
Should i just get a new hanger ? Is it going to fit nicely ?

The bracket that the pedal assembly connects to is different between a non power brake and power brake car for 67.
Here is a link to a 67 non power brake bracket (with instructions on converting it to power).
Here is the 67 power version.
Here is a link to the different brake pedal you will also need for your conversion. In the description it speaks to the difference in pedals and the need to get the power brake support bracket.
Here’s a link to the reproduction power brake manual shift pedal.
Good luck.

That looks like a reproduction version of the link I sent you from WCCC. Same part number listed as well.

Here’s a link to the full repair bushing kit
And just the bushings
Shop around and see what you can find.

What you want is this:

The plastic bushings won’t fix the problem.

I ordered a whole replacement bracket for power brakes as well as the plastic bushings. I hope it will fit. Always worried with reproduction parts.
I was planning to convert my manual by drilling out 3 of the firewall mounting nuts and using the existing power brake pedal mounting hole, but the bushing rebuild kit is nearly the cost of the whole bracket. It wont have the nicer roller bearings that @Royce suggests, but i’m hoping what comes on it will last a few years at least !

@fordnutz Thanks for all the details. I do have the longer pedal as part of the conversion kit but it seems to sit higher than the clutch. I’ll see how it looks when i get my replacement bracket.

Gregar, i just did this on a 68

Short version (from memory)

Disconnect the rag joint joining the steering column to the steering gear. Unplug the column wires. Take out the fasteners to the firewall. Remove the 4 fasteners (4 nuts, 2 studs) that connect the column to the dash. The column will now come out. (The park brake being disconnected and moved out of the way may be needed. I did that).

The brake and clutch pedals can now be disconnected by pulling the pins, etc. Remove the master cylinder.

The hanger bracket can now be unfastened and removed with the clutch and brake peddles.

Fyi - if you put all that stuff back together and replace the clutch with a “diaphragm” version… guess what? That friggin clutch peddle spring overpowers the clutch. Yes, it then needs to all come back out to remove the spring!