I am wanting to repair the clock in my car, but have no idea how it comes out of the dash. It can’t be as hard as it looks (like taking out the heater box, etc. from behind/underneath), or can it? Any tips welcome! Thanks.
Take out the dash pad, taking care to disconnect the two to three wiring harness plugs on the clock side of the pad. Then, unscrew the clock from the dash pad bracket.
It’s not easy, remove glove box door and liner, you can feel but can not see the three small screws holding the clock in, it takes a 1/4 in socket. there are also two light bulbs and the power plug that have to be disconnected. Getting it out is pretty rough, but going back is worse. IT CAN BE DONE
Oh man, now I see why it hasn’t be fixed by now……
And there’s another way, a crazy way IMO, but another way!
Replaced my clock last summer when I took the dash pad out. While I was at it I greased my speedo cable, put in LED bulbs in the instrument cluster, replaced the lenses as well, put in the sequential tail light module, put in a new speaker, put in a 3 wire rebuilt tach, uh think there was one or two other things too. I wasn’t just going to do one thing while it was out.
I used a piece of cardboard and put the screws I took out in the cardboard in the position they were in on the dash pad. Bet the same screw went in the same hole.
Take your time.
The trim pieces on either side of the radio do not have to be removed to take the dash pad out as Don mentions. Two screws above the radio are not covered by these pieces.
I always cover the steering column with a towel so the column doesn’t get scratched.
Hrm… I’ll have to review the video myself, as my Clock doesn’t work either, which bugs me to no end!
I like to think that actually repairing the clock would be easy to do myself. I recall reading quite a few threads about it, and it seems that often it is the “points” that burn or arc closed, and / or the drive coil that opens near the solder joints.
Correct… Most clocks are very “low mile” as they usually quit working in the 1970’s. Fiddle with them a little, clean them up and they will work for another 30 days or so before you have to do it again. QUARTZ I say… Keep in mind if your lens does not need replaced we can lower the price substantially on our reconditioned units.
I have a quartz movement in my clock and it works very well. I converted it several years ago.
I also rigged up a spare clock housing to accommodate a digital clock from a 90-91 Taurus that plugs into the Cougar harness. It works but is not as cool as an original-style clock.
The XR7 clock I repaired for Isabel worked fine for the couple of years I had it in there, it just could not be made to keep time well! Too fast, too slow and as a perfectionist I tried and tried to find that “just right” setting on the mainspring adjust, could not do it. Put a quartz movement in another spare clock and have not looked back, keeps perfect time. I have two mechanical movement restored units I will eventually find good homes for, concours guys gotta have 'em. In short, I agree (in most cases), quartz is the shizzle.
Wow! Looks pretty easy, thanks Don!