Re: Wiring harnesses.
If you’re going to take that car completely apart and remove those harnesses tag all your connections,i.e. 1 to 1,2 to 2 etc. or whatever method you like. Clean all the wires with a soft tooth brush and a mild cleaner like Simple Green and then hang those wires up straight, don’t coil them up. This assuming all the wires are good and the harnesses haven’t been butchered.
Re: Electrical tape.
Another tip-3M electrical tape. The last roll I bought from NAPA was like $6-7? Don’t be lulled into running down to Harbor Freight and with a 20% off coupon buy a pack of 10 rolls for ,what, $2.99? Get the good tape. You’ll see the difference years down the road.
Thanks for the tip, that is something I will do as I’m sure I’ll be digging it all out to inspect. I know that I need to grab a wiring manual so I have it all correct and to repair any breaks that I might have.
On a side note, I’m trying to source an original carb for the setup. I was thinking that it would be the Autolite 2100 but I’m not 100% if that is correct. Does anyone have an idea if I’m on the right track or am I mistaken?
Thanks again for all those who are helping me out. I really appreciate it as I’m super motivated and want to have it up and running before long. I know that’s a tall order, but I’m driven to get it mobile.
I have a box of original Autolite 2V carbs here so there is a chance that I would have the correct one for your car.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Hey Randy,
That would be great! I want to have things fairly close to the original setup and that would really help me out. I’ll send you a PM over.
Ford/Mercury used very little electrical tape. One vendor used it to hold the wrap in place at the end of looms and others used sealant. Electrical tape will leak adhesive around the edges, collect dust and little stuff and become unsightly over time. That is why they sell electrical wrap to copy what was originally used
As for cleaning know a number of shops that unwrap the old looms, zip tie the loom in the original separate branches, place the loom in a pillow case and throw it in the washing machine on delicate when the wife isn’t looking
Jeff,
“Unwrap the old looks”, “Place the look”. While I do understand what you are talking about here what I do not understand is the use of the word “Look”. Is “look” some electrical term? Just wondering. Thank you.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Hand placement - something I don’t often remember from my typing classes we were all required to take in school. Just a slip of the finger - fix now and I hope the meaning now is much cleaner - Sorry for the confusion
Congrats on the purchase of the Cougar! I really like the color combo. It looks like a real decent start as the interior is in great shape for the age.
Good luck!
Steve
Hey guys,
Just an update, I have the engine off to the shop and will be spending some money and time getting it all together and within spec again. An interesting note is the motor is all original and has the same date of manufacture on all the pieces (Heads, intake, block) 12/27/1967. I’ve ordered the complete set of manuals from WCCC and excited to get them in the mail so I can dig in. I’m already building a long list of things I will need and going to move the car into the garage in the coming weeks to start digging into the engine compartment to clean it up and make it nice. I think while I’m there I’m going to do some updates on the shock towers (Plate) and see what to do on the suspension. I have thought about doing the stock, a slightly modified updated suspension and then all out road and track. Not sure what to do as I’m a little on the fence, I’m a purist at heart but also want to have some fun and reliability as I plan to drive it until the wheels fall off.
I have about 4K or so that I’ll be investing in the engine and building something that will perform and be reliable. I’m planning on another 1200 or so for the trans and I’m sure down the line the rest. I’ve also wrestled with the idea of the rear end, should I leave it stock (3.00 open) or change it to another ratio? My goal is to have a driver that I can have fun with, but also something that can get into it if I want to. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I’m trying to do things right the first time around lol.
Jeff,
Oh yes, I remember typing class. I make a lot of mistakes too.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I’m trying to do things right the first time around lol.
First you need to decide what you want the car to be when done. Rebuilding it bone stock is one way. Building a race car is another. Building a canyon carver is another. Then you need to put together a plan for the complete driveline and suspension so that they will do what you want the car to be. An example would be to build a 1000 HP engine and then place a stock transmission behind it. That will not hold up very long. All the pieces need to compliment each other and work together. Something else to add in would be what size tires you will use. Tire size will have an effect on the rear end ratio.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
I’ve also wrestled with the idea of the rear end, should I leave it stock (3.00 open) or change it to another ratio? My goal is to have a driver that I can have fun with, but also something that can get into it if I want to. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I’m trying to do things right the first time around lol.
Depends on what you’ll do with the transmission. If you’re sticking with the C4 the 3.00 is a nice all-around cruising gear. Not screaming on the highway, and not a complete slouch from a stop. If you’re going to swap in an AOD or T5 w/overdrive I’d go for something numerically higher like a 3.55 or 3.73.
I went from open 2.75 with the FMX to posi 3.50 with the T5. Very happy with that choice for all around driving.
I went from open 2.75 with the FMX to posi 3.50 with the T5. Very happy with that choice for all around driving.
I went from 3.00 to 3.50 with my T-5 as well and love it.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the input and feedback. I have thought about what you said and I think I want to go with the stock/Mild upgrade route over a canyon carver/strip car. I think there is just too much of a solid car with all the original parts (From what I’m finding) to start going another direction. I want to have something that I can bottom line have fun in with some reliability and performance. Blue Oval has a pretty good line on some recommendations that I can make without straying to far from my goal. I would like to make it a survivor car, but I know that paint and top are not in the best shape.
I’m thinking that I’ll rebuild the 302 and beef it up some, rebuild the C4 with maybe a shift kit (2K stall?) and keep it. The vin is stamped on the trans and I just think it is too cool to have it all here and not use it as it once was.
I mentioned it before but the shop was still shocked to see how well the engine was taken care of and the minimal wear that was discovered. Granted we are still in the beginning phase of the build but it looks very promising. This part of the process is going to be a little taxing on me with the cost, but I think I can sacrifice some other hobbies to direct my attention to this. (I collect (buy/sell) vintage audio, just another fun thing that has always grabbed my attention.) I would easily let some stuff go in order to fund this and get it up and going. I think I might have the original exhaust system that’s still intact which I thought would have been rotted long ago. I’ll have to dig into that more in order to confirm.
I want to go over things a little more closely once I have some time, my wife likes to stay active and engaged with events for us lol. But I’m eager to see if I can find and confirm all the tags/numbers on the car to match. I’m thinking of looking to replace the interior with the same, but does anyone know of a good source for the leather front buckets? When I get in I’ll see if I can snag the build sheet, Fingers crossed, and see what all it has. I might also look into cleaning/detailing the engine compartment while everything is out to get it back to that factory clean look.
I know I must be rambling on but I’m just excited to get started and we all know that fire that burns when you get something in the garage to restore right?
Great find, that is almost the exact time I found mine. I got 68 XR7 as well. I will be looking forward to hear how your project progresses.
Welcome to the Fam.
Brian
Thanks for the tip, that is something I will do as I’m sure I’ll be digging it all out to inspect. I know that I need to grab a wiring manual so I have it all correct and to repair any breaks that I might have.
On a side note, I’m trying to source an original carb for the setup. I was thinking that it would be the Autolite 2100 but I’m not 100% if that is correct. Does anyone have an idea if I’m on the right track or am I mistaken?
Thanks again for all those who are helping me out. I really appreciate it as I’m super motivated and want to have it up and running before long. I know that’s a tall order, but I’m driven to get it mobile.
I have a carb for it. And I’m close too. I live in Highlands Ranch. I’m replacing the carb with EFI as we speak, and just pulled it off the car 2 weeks ago. Give me a call. (303) 325-6883
Hey Folks,
I’m Sorry for the big delay, a lot has come up in life that had me setting things on the back burner. I haven’t been able to do much, but I’m working on getting started on the wiring and checking it over. I’m thinking that it would be nice to retain as much of the original as I can. Is there anything that should be replaced/upgraded from the factory setup? I want to do this right as I’m in the process of rebuilding the engine at a fairly pricey cost so far.
I’m also debating on the crossroad of keeping the suspension stock or upgrading it to have a little more control/ease of ride. Any suggestions?