Help getting AC working again - clutch

Cougar Community Classic Cougar Maintenance Restoration and Repair
1

Any help in getting my AC system going again? So far I have replaced the heater core and pressure tested and inspected the evaporator, and tested the icing switch. A vacuum test on the system before I opened it held properly. York compressor is locked up.
I plan to:

  1. Replace the receiver / dryer.
  2. Replace the expansion valve.
  3. Flush the evaporator, hoses and condenser with 90 % isopropyl alcohol.
  4. Install new bearing on the idler pulley
    Is it recommended to get a new 4-seasons aluminum housing York compressor or save $50 and go with a rebuilt unit?

I pulled the A/C clutch. It spins, but is not zippy. How much resistance should there be? Any real bench test for this? Clutch alone is $150!

WCCC either stopped carrying or out of stock for the compressor, clutch, drier and expansion valve.
I’ll get the idler bushing at WCCC. Seems like the best deals for the rest are Four Seasons for the Compressor, Filter/Drier and maybe the clutch, if I have to get one.

Expansion valve: CJ’s has the straight design Expansion valve with the right fittings for $83.
Four seasons makes one with the 90 deg design for $20. Anyone use the 90 deg instead of the straight one like original?

Thanks,
Keith
1968 Cougar

2

I have the 90 degree service replacement on my 69. I’m going to replace it with the straight one when I rebuild the system. The liquid hose makes a very sharp bend to clear the hood and the upper shock tower stabilizer structure. The bend radius is much sharper than I like for a hose that size and it just looks like the hack job it is. I suggest spend the extra $63 for the straight one and do it right the first time.

Have you looked into getting your original compressor rebuilt? Less chance of ending up with a mislabeled or a parts book mistake than with a replacement compressor. I don’t know all the specifics of which models used which taper, but I have seen differences that mean your clutch won’t mount properly. Then if you get a clutch to fit the taper the belt may not line up.

If your compressor is original to the car, make sure you keep the tag near the clutch with the part number and date info.

3

R12 or 134 ?

4

Thanks for advice. I will spring for the more expensive expansion valve. Sometime what you pay for is what you get.

As far as rebuilding the existing Compressor
unit, are there places that do that in a reasonable turn around?

Thanks,
Keith

5

I’ve only had to replace a front seal, which was easy to do on the car. I don’t have personal experience with rebuilders.

Here is a link to one:

https://www.originalair.com/york-compressor-rebuild-compressor-only