I love a clean engine bay. And a thanks for all the help

[1970FastCat]

@cougar2

@1970FastCat

Again, thanks guys.

Cougar2, I welded 5/16 plate to the shock towers and shaped them to what I wanted them to look like, then ground the welds a little and smoothed them over with body filler. Same thing for the firewall bracket, but I used 5/16 angle and welded the entire perimeter to give it plenty of strength since it is only supported by sheetmetal. I think this setup is stronger than the factory setup since I made the bars adjustable. Once bolted in, I tighten them down a little to put some tension one everything and it keeps it locked in place real well. As long as the strut braces are sinched down and pushing against the shock towers, it would be stonger than the factory setup. If they are just bolted in without tension then they would be weaker, so they have to have a reverse thread rod end on one end.

Thanks Mike, I really like the work you did on these. Can you give the place where you got the adjustable bars?
Thanks again.

Thanks. I actually made my bars from steel tube and welded nuts to the ends and smoothed everything out and had them powder coated. They look good, and this worked in theory, but every time I have to remove them, I have to wrench them loose. That has caused the powder coat to crack and peel at the wrench points. You can buy premade tubes here Threaded Tubes - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing or if you want to make your own you can weld nuts on like I did, or get these ends that weld into the tube Chassis Tube Ends - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing . Then you just need to buy the rod ends and jam nuts. Would be a good idea to have your jam nuts and rod ends on hand before you measure though. I think next time, I will use some stainless tube and tube ends and just brush them, then I wont have to worry about flaking paint or powder.

[cougar2]

@1970FastCat

@cougar2

@1970FastCat

Again, thanks guys.

Cougar2, I welded 5/16 plate to the shock towers and shaped them to what I wanted them to look like, then ground the welds a little and smoothed them over with body filler. Same thing for the firewall bracket, but I used 5/16 angle and welded the entire perimeter to give it plenty of strength since it is only supported by sheetmetal. I think this setup is stronger than the factory setup since I made the bars adjustable. Once bolted in, I tighten them down a little to put some tension one everything and it keeps it locked in place real well. As long as the strut braces are sinched down and pushing against the shock towers, it would be stonger than the factory setup. If they are just bolted in without tension then they would be weaker, so they have to have a reverse thread rod end on one end.

Thanks Mike, I really like the work you did on these. Can you give the place where you got the adjustable bars?
Thanks again.

Thanks. I actually made my bars from steel tube and welded nuts to the ends and smoothed everything out and had them powder coated. They look good, and this worked in theory, but every time I have to remove them, I have to wrench them loose. That has caused the powder coat to crack and peel at the wrench points. You can buy premade tubes here Threaded Tubes - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing or if you want to make your own you can weld nuts on like I did, or get these ends that weld into the tube Chassis Tube Ends - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing . Then you just need to buy the rod ends and jam nuts. Would be a good idea to have your jam nuts and rod ends on hand before you measure though. I think next time, I will use some stainless tube and tube ends and just brush them, then I wont have to worry about flaking paint or powder.

Thanks Mike, I appreciate the info!