What about permatex high tack gasket sealant and right stuff black rtv? That’s about all I can find locally.
Looks like the gaskets were installed correctly except for gluing it to the valve cover on the top side. The only rtv I found on the gasket were in the two places everyone has mentioned. Look at how the intake to head gasket where the rtv was dug into the gasket does this not need to be filed down? Or just glue gasket to cover, rtv back where it was and seal back up?
I am not so sure those gaskets were installed correctly onto the heads either. You can see engine paint that came off onto the gasket surface, and paint/gasket residue still on the heads. Need to start with uniform clean natural metal on both heads and valve covers.
Ok, that’s not as bad, but I still see paint and gasket residue on the head/intake gasket surface that I would strip off with scotch brite and lacquer thinner. Never have tried the Permatex, and I don’t use RTV for gaskets so can’t help you there.
The intake gasket doesn’t stick up unless a lot of milling takes place. If it’s sticking up it needs to be trimmed flush. Should have done that before installation ideally.
Shave tabs down. RTV ~ 3/4” over that area, permatex high tack sealant on valve cover, install gasket on valve cover, install valve cover on engine, torque to 4-8 ft/lbs?
Not knowing what tools you have, I use a small cutting wheel because of the metal in the gasket, I have also used a sharp putty knife and light hammer to remove the tab. I have removed that tab on every FE engine I have built.
The rear fitting is really hard to touch unless you remove the fan and fan shroud, then unbolt the transmission cross member and remove it. That lets the transmission hang down at the rear enough to get a lot more room to work.