Mike, the straight end on the brake pedal push rod end looks to be for fitment to a 1970 Cougar/mustang? Or maybe for a non power boosted brake. Believe the '69’s with power disc front and drum rear brakes should have a “tear drop” drop down connection end. This drops the power brake pedal connection down about 1/4" to 1/2" from center line of the push rod. If straight end is used on 69, it puts a side load onto the phenolic part inside the booster, breaking it - an expensive rare non reproduced part for vacum brake booster rebuilders to source.
Engine207, if your master cylinder is labeled Bendix on it’s bottom, has the button head bolt on the bottom along with the 2227161 number embossed on the bottom, it’s probably original to your 70 Cougar. Looking in it’s piston bore, it looks pretty smooth inside. It should be rebuildable. If it has pitted spots or pot marks inside the bore, it may need to be re-sleeved. Some suppliers were out of stock on the master cylinder rebuild kit these past couple of years. I sourced a kit from NPD to rebuild my 69 disc/drum Bendix master cylinder, after having it’s bore re-sleeved by the vacum brake booster rebuilder Karps in Chino, CA.
Thanks everyone for the help. I’m back on the road with a new master cylinder from DeadNutsOn. Since I didn’t know if the booster pushrod length was correct to begin with, I had to buy the h-tool. Found it needed to be extended about .200 to get to .015 spec from the plunger. I bled it all out and followed the Service Manual to recenter the distribution block. The light went right off. I did have to go back and rebleed again, after that. Thanks again!
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