Starting a '67 convertible conversion and desiring to do it right with the assistance of more experienced Cougar experts. Me being a Dodge truck man mostly, I am new to Cougars but have had my share of 3rd generation Mustangs and 4th generation Cutlasses. This is actually my second convertible conversion. The first one was over 30 years ago: a 1976 Impala 4-door. But that was not done well since it involved a sawsall and a case of Old Milwaukee at the same time.
I am starting with a barn find '67 with a standard 289 2-barrel. As far as I can tell the engine and tranny are original and it only has ~60K mile on it. After sitting for the last 8 years she will still run, albeit from a gas can since the fuel lines rotted out. This 289 will be replaced with a nice 351C 4-bolt that I have had around for many years.
I hope to share the progress of this conversion and gain insight into the best way to do the conversion. I have been reviewing what is easily available online but some of it is contradictory. I am sure that there is more than one way to “skin-this-cat” but I want to know why a particular path was chosen. I have seen for example 3 or 4 different top assemblies mentioned: 69’ cougar and '67 Mustang most often. Which is best to use?
I have to say that I have no issues with any fabrication and even have access to my friend sheet metal shop (BTW. I love water jet.) but I would rather not have to fabricate if suitable parts are available.
My first question is does anyone have a parts list for the conversion?
First off welcome to the Classic Cougar Community. It’s always great to have new members. In reference to doing a 1967 convertible conversion you have found the right site.
Catvert
One of the or if not the best conversion Catvert was done by one of the members here Catvert68. His attention to detail took his conversion to the next level. Bill followed Kevin Marti’s lead with some additional changes. I’d also call Bill the registrar of all 67-68 Cougar convertible conversions. He has kept track of most conversions as they have appeared on the internet and has given overviews on how well the conversions have been done.
You can read up on Catvert by clicking on these links:
Another member that has probably one of the most innovative conversions in Yorgie with his Copycatvert. Jody has as he states used many “cheapskate” ides and innovations in his conversion. I get a good laugh at his “cheapskate” comments because I look at his conversion and his skills as being very resourceful. His conversion is a daily driver (in Wisconsin no less). Copycatvert is built very well and proof of this is that it is back on the road after a very heavy car accident earlier this year.
You can read more on Copycatvert here by clicking on these links:
With these fine examples covered that leaves my conversion Top Cat. The structural work was for the most part completed by the previous owner. He took what I would call a decent approach but some items needed to be redone and corrected. My work has been slow but steady as I want to make sure that when complete Top Cat will be a great driving car as well as a a good looking conversion.
You can read more about Top Cat by clicking this link:
I’m sure Bill and Jody will add their thoughts. Good luck with your conversion and have a good plan before taking the roof off because it’s going to take more than a saw-z-all.
Steven
Martel, welcome to forum and what is still a fairly exclusive club of 67-68 Cougar convertibles. Steven has already given you the best advice possible - to study the projects that have been done already. Any of us who’ve done one of these will be more than happy to answer questions that you may still have after reading up on the previous builds.
Just be aware that there is no right or wrong way to do this as long as the structural strength of the car is maintained and the final result looks finished. Beyond that, you just need a clear vision for what that final product will say to those who see it.
If I were to do mine over again, instead of cutting/fitting/modifying mustang parts (such as the drip rail, seatback panel, etc), I’d design and build custom parts to mount the seat and top frame. I’ll post some more thoughts and suggestions tomorrow when I am in my office and don’t have to type on this tiny iPhone keyboard.
Yorgle, Thanks for the comments on the top support structure. This is one of the details that I find most confusing/contradictory. Fabrication is no issue for me since I have full access to a sheetmetal shop. I have been researching the actual top mechanisms and can easily find them aftermarket for the 65-68 Mustang but CatVert68 uses a 69 support and top frame assembly (I assume). I would appreciate any clarity.
BTW. I hope that you and other members will not be put-off by my many questions. In real life I am a scientist/engineer and believe it getting as much detail as possible prior to starting any project. In this specific case since I do NOT want to end up with a roadster.
The floorpan, undercarriage, etc. mods are straight-forward and are like mods I have done to my 3rd gen Mustangs. The details of the top will hopefully become clearer.
The final big open topic is the windshield and a-pillar mods.I have not seen any description or drawings/photos other than the those from Kevin Marti. Does anyone have good photos to share?
No mods are needed for the windshield and A-pillars. The attachment point for the convertible moldings are already there under the roof skin. We used a 69 Cougar support panel because we had one and it was an easier fit. But the folding top assembly was from a 67 Mustang.
For the rear, you basically going to be removing all of the package tray and roof support metal, along with the rearmost portion of the inner panels below the quarter windows. I regret not having taken more photos as I did mine, but I do have some I can post tomorrow that should help.
I think the first question you need to answer is how you want the tops of the quarter panels to look. Most conversions flatten them to match the mustang well trim and top. This results in a slightly longer trunk area and shorter looking roofline. I wanted to keep the distinctive long hood/short deck proportions and the Cougar roofline so I had to get real creative with things like trim and the drip rail. The downside to my approach is that while a stock mustang top can be made to fit, it’s not perfect. A custom sewn top is on my long term list.
I made the well opening to follow more or less the same line as the original vinyl top moldings. In fact, if you look closely at the pic I just posted, you can see the holes for the moldings are still there. The get covered up by my custom well trim.
Here is a picture from my conversion. In this first picture you can see what Jody is describing about flattening out the top of the quarter panels. Where Jody kept the distinctive upsweep area of the Cougar roof line mine has been flattened.
The previous owner had the flattened section to far forward towards the passenger compartment for my liking. I cleaned up his cuts and removed another 1 1/2" to get more of a slope for the convertible top when it will be in the upright position. To me this keeps the rear rake design of the original roof.
You can also see in my pictures that I have multiple guide lines for where I cut. I figured it’s easier to make multiple cuts rather than try to add metal back if I removed to much.
Another Item that the previous owner left out was the inner drip rail. I had to fabricate my own after Jody pointed out that it was missing in one of my pictures (thanks Jody ). This is why I stated earlier about having a good plan and understanding before you start, which it looks like you’re doing.
I confess that although I like to claim that my decision to maintain the shape of the quarter panel was for some lofty goal of staying true to the Cougar’s styling, the truth is that I was really just avoiding the need to repaint. My talents lie in making things that cant be seen. Conversions using Steven’s approach have the advantage of being able to use stock mustang tack sticks, well trim and top boot.
BTW about 50% through with the parts list for the convert. It is troublesome to note that the same part is either $99.95 from company XYZ or $499.95 from someone else. I will post when fully complete. Looks like about $5000 for all parts (so far) so I am happy about that.
Also going to add the front handling mods from the Boss 302 handbook: export brace, shock tower reinforcement plates and reinforced front crossmember (convinced by Don Rush video).
While working on the parts list for the convertible conversion and have been reviewing disc brake conversions and a rear axle swap. Seeing about a million ways to do this and looking for feedback. I am considering using the 1970? front spindles, etc. (saw the WCC video) and a Explorer 8.8 trac-lock rear (most noted combo and cheaper than a traditional 9"). Not sure about gear ratio yet.
Also rethinking the 351C option. Maybe do a 302 instead. It is lighter and there are a lot more parts/options available and I know them better from the Mustang days. Must start reading up on transmissions. My knowledge of Ford stick-shifts is very limited. The Mustangs were all automatics with shift-kits.
Cleaned my shop of the holidays so now will start dis-assembly in late January. Going to be fully dis-assembled and then probably media blasted.
The Tremec TR-3650 transmission is possibly a good choice and there are a lot of them around. Also looking at T-56 and the newest TR-6060 six-speed versions.
No single vendor carriers everything and prices are all over the place for identical items so not full finished searching but the body body part list is as follows:
Item P/N Source Cost Mfg
Floor pan, full, convertble, 64-70 Mustang (pair) XFLP2P CJPonyParts $169.99
Floor pan plug kit, 1965-1970 HW1100 CJPonyParts $24.99
Reinforcement pan, convertible, lower, left M120LH Summit $71.96 Scott Drake
Reinforcement pan, convertible, lower, right M120RH Summit $71.96 Scott Drake
Seat platform, convertible, 64-70 Mustang M132CV Summit $107.96 Scott Drake
Convertible inner rocker LH for 65-68 M112LH Summit $69.75 Scott Drake
Convertible inner rocker RH for 65-68 M112RH Summit $69.75 Scott Drake
Convertible LH torque box for 65-68, front 15069 WCC $45.77
Convertible RH torque box for 65-68 , front 15070 WCC $45.77
Reinforcement plate, convertible, lower 11377 WCC $25.97 C5ZZ-7610962
B-Pillar to floor brace, convertible, 65-68 (pair) 3644KWT CJPonyParts $31.99 Dynacorn
Torque box gusset, pair 3651WT CJPonyParts $39.99 Dynacorn
Rear wheelhouse support reinf., RH 27798-1A NPD $33.25
Rear wheelhouse support reinf., LH 27799-1A NPD $33.25
Back seat suppport 65-68 Mustang 3647YDWT Champion $349.65 Dynacorn
Subframe connectors 109401 Summit $174.97 Tinman
Export brace C5ZZ-16A052 CJPonyParts $53.97 Scott Drake
Reinforcement Plates - Shock Tower 12-3008 WCC $32.27
Reinforcement Plates - Front Crossmember 14-0001 WCC $29.57
I appreciate any feedback on the list and vendors. It would be great to get this all from one source but that ain’t gonna happen…
BTW. I hope the next person appreciates this as making a nice table in this forum is a challenge. I had to use a code block to control tabbing.
). This is why I stated earlier about having a good plan and understanding before you start, which it looks like you’re doing.
