I have the front suspension of my 1967 Cougar disassembled and would like to replace the upper and lower control arms. Is one replacement brand better than the other? I’ve seen control arms from both Scott Drake and Dynacorn. I’ll probably do a complete suspension upgrade in the future so I’d like to spend around $500 max. I’ve seen both of these brands sell upper control arms around $100 each and lowers around $60-70. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
Moog “K” series parts only…
I used Scott Drake UCAs and LCAs,haven’t had any issues with them.
Ask 100 people, get 100 answers.
Grab-A-Track from Mustangs Plus.
Having installed over a hundred front ends over 30 years, I have found only Moog Blue & Yellow boxed parts last.
Can’t tell you how many of those "grab your a** " plastic bushing “kits” I’ve replaced!
Replacement upper arms are made of thinner steel, poor stampings, and are really junk.
Using you old arms & installing K8131 shaft kits & tack welding the ends to the arm is a great option!
I’ve also had replace over a dozen different customers cats that had those “all in one” arms separating from the nut. Tack weld them please!
Do it once.
Do it right.
Do it with the best.
Don’t forget the special zerk kit (grease fittings)
I’ve never had a return on my Moog installed front ends…
NPD and maybe others carry a four rivet upper control arm that is very well made.
Be careful as lower control arms differ between Cougars and Mustangs for a couple of years, 1967 in particular.
http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/65_to_73_suspension_guide_v1.4a.pdf
Slightly hijacking that thread here - does that mean the 67 are not interchangeable with mustang parts at all ? or does that just impact people looking for concours condition for the car ?
The big difference is the 67 Cougar had a unique strut rod:
Unless you’re going for concours you’re better off using a 68 Mustang/Cougar strut rod and LCA.
Thanks guys! I think I’m going to go with Opentrackerracing. I spoke with John over there and he has exactly what I’m looking for.
This is not my own thread but i’m interested as my next big project will be the frontend rebuild.
Does Moog do complete UCA and LCA assemblies (i thought they only did bushings/ball joints) ? where do you buy them ? looks like all i can find online is either scott drake & dynacorn or racing stuff that is way above my budget. It is hard to know for sure what brand the parts are as most sites (npd, etc…) rarely show the brand of their products.
Are you getting this ?
https://opentrackerracing.com/product/standard-control-arm-roller-perch-kit-1967/
Who makes the parts, can you send photos of the kit when you get it ?
Here’s the cheapest place to buy Moog from
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1968,cougar,5.0l+302cid+v8,1197514,suspension
You must reuse the upper a-arm & replace the shaft kit (K8131) & ball joint. Some are 4 bolt (original upto 69) & 3 bolt (70 & later & also repops)
I won’t use company’s (PST) who insist that the “plastic” is better for the bushings.
Remember I use this on the track w/ my 69. Only plastic bushing are on the end link of the front sway bar.
Ah ok i see so more of a rebuild of the control arms than a replacement. The ball joints are riveted though, so you just drill them out and bolt in moog replacements ?
a good possibility is they have already been replaced. I’m not 100% sure the 67 had rivets, but the 68’s & on had bolts if I recall correctly.
Anyway, you must drill out the rivets & replace w/ ball joint #K8036 (4 bolt) or K8142 (3 bolt). Then remove the old shaft & replace w/ K8131
The big nuts on the ends must be secured w/ a tack weld (as all other repops should too!)
I am about to do a front end on a 68. I’ll document this for all to use. Should be finished next week.
Gotcha ! document would be awesome.
I think it was all riveted from factory - all the “concours” repro parts i see are riveted, and NPD even sells “concours” rivets.
I’m not looking for concours, if i go the rebuild route i’ll just drill out existing rivets and bolt the moog parts.
Regarding 4 bolts vs 3 bolts, is there a benefit of one version over the other ?
What about the lower control arms, are they rebuildable as well ? assume it will be the same story with the ball joint of drilling out the rivet. The bushing will need to be pressed out though, is that doable without a press (using a bearing tool ?) ? and new one be pressed in with the same tool ?
Thanks a lot for all the info, i start to have a clearer picture of my options and the work involved for each. I keep doing my research …
I’m in the middle of redoing my 71 front end and used the Moog parts, have a complete new upper control arm with shaft kit and riveted ball joint complete bolt in,pn# RK621369 available thru most parts stores about $60-70 bucks. Complete lower control arm pn# CK8123. Bolted right in no problems they fit 68-73. Also used WCCC new spring compressor with the bearing on it works outstanding with almost no effort.
Are the Moog control arms what WCCC carries as the “economy” control arms? The pricing seems about the same and for whatever reason the Napa and O’Reilly’s around here don’t carry them.
The uppers were 4 rivet until 1970 then they went to 3 rivet which gives more meat around the rivets and less likely to crack.
The 4 rivet upper ones, especially 1967 are prone to cracking at the rivet holes. Be sure that yours are not cracked before deciding to rebuild one.
The lower ball joints are replaceable but be warned it is a major amount of work to get the old ball joint out. IMHO it’s better to just buy new control arms so long as you are not trying to please a concours judge.