I have all suspension springs, rebuilt control valve, I have a creak in suspension. It is like there is no grease in one of the suspension pieces, I have checked and re grease all the suspension, anything else I should look at or try
First…make sure everything is tight….does it creak on a spring bounce or turn of the wheel….that would isolate it…usually you can feel the offending part creak…have a friend feel around while it’s creaking. Make sure everything is greased….I always like to see the boots swell to be sure the zerk isn’t blocked
At a stop when I turn the wheel it makes the noise
There is a separate sound when I push on the fender and bounce the suspension, almost like something is loose. I have checked the bolts and everything things seems tight
The new upper control arms(scoot drake suspension parts) have 90 degree grease fittings, when I try to grease them the grease comes out of the gun but does not go into the fitting , it goes all around the outside
Use a small punch to make sure the check ball in the zerk isn’t frozen…then retry greasing. Check shock mounts…upper and lower….sway bar also….hands on while someone articulates the steering and suspension will help you locate it. BTW were the inside lower control arm pivots tightened while the car was jacked up…or after the suspension settled?
I was going to take the car to a local garage to see if they could pin point the problem
Also when the car was aligned, I am not sure if it was done right, the car tracks straight( still have a little wandering), but one tie rod assembly is longer on one side(1.5” longer), turns sharper to the one side
So I took the car to the garage on Monday,
They re-greased all the joints
They noticed the upper control arm bolts( the one with the grease fittings) were not tight)
The Machanic used a stesiscope, and font the creek on the passenger side upper ball joint - with the grease it still creeks, but will drive it and see if the grease will get into the joint( it is a new scott drake arm), could I have a bad factory control arm
The last thing he did was adjust the steering box, it is a rebuilt box from Rode’s restoration,
The steering is so tight, it is night and day. Could the steering box be adjusted too much
And the last thing; the passenger tie rod assembly is 1” longer than the drivers side, is this right or will this effect the turning radius from one side to another
This is not right. Often a well - meaning technician does something like this to make the steering wheel center when the car is going straight down the road. This is a mistake - the steering wheel needs to be removed and repositioned after an alignment. The tie rods need to be +/- about 1/8" in length.
So is it best to take it back to them and get them to center the steering box, than do the alignment and than center the steering wheel.
Also, do you know how I can tell if my steering box is “over adjusted”. I only drove the car a few miles back from the garage. The steering is very tight, no play
To find out if the steering box is too tight, lift front wheels off the ground with a jack, then turn steering wheel from one side to the other. If it feels like there is a resistance at the center position it is too tight.
Right. Either you have to re-adjust steering wheel after they center the steering box or they will.
When the car was new the steering wheel was installed on center so this didn’t happen. But now you have a significant difference in steering angle one direction compared to the other - that’s not right.
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So is it best to take it back to them and get them to center the steering box, than do the alignment and than center the steering wheel.
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Royce,
The new upper control ball joint is making the noice, we tried to re grease it, but no luck, it was a scott drake front end kit that I installed, welded in ball joint