It is? Wow, then it’s time to get the correct one 
I’ve done the same mistake and it fell off and since then I consider the wrong clip to be unsafe. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/14234-Hairpin-Brake-Switch-and-Clutch-Pedal-Rod-New-1967-1973-Mercury-Cougar-/-1967-1973-Ford-Mustang.html?sessionthemeid=26
I also have this one in the AMK Master Kit. It is black phosphate with red dye finish. May use the new one.
https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fasteners-listing/?codeforlookup=8015
I just removed mine the other day. I believe it to be first time out. Note there is a nylon washer between pin and switch. (another nylon washer on other side).
Today I received the five wheels and tires from Coker Tire. Ordered them in October of last year. They are P215-70R 14 skinny whitewall BF Goodrich tires. Visually quite close to the tires that came on most GT-E’s and XR7-G’s when new.
After that excitement wore off I went to work taking the tilt away column apart. From the looks of it no one has disturbed it since it was put together by Ford when new.
The gasket had remains of a white double backed tape used to secure it to the firewall, making installation of the column easier. I plan to do that as well.
I have found that removing the turn signal switch connector is super easy using this method. I use a scrap piece of .156" OD / .015" wall thickness brass tubing and a pair of pliers to pull on the wire. And of course draw the back side of the connector to show which color wire goes where. The shop manual has this information but it’s easier to draw it out than to use the manual.
Removing the single retaining bolt from the lower collar allows you to see the retaining clamp that also must be removed before the wires can be pulled out.
There was a piece of tape wrapped around the wires with the letters “BPO” on it. Maybe an inspector’s initials?
Worked on the steering column this morning. Yesterday I wet sanded all the parts with #320 grit and primed all the parts. The main column had some pitting at the lower end from the master cylinder removing the paint and then moisture doing its normal thing. Plus there was a dent near the top of the tube. I filled the pits and dent with Rage Gold filler and let it dry.
After the filler was dry I wet sanded the areas needing repair with #220, then wiped it down with wax and grease remover.
Next I hung the column on a nail using some baling wire and sprayed it with primer surfacer. It’s sort of a spray filler that gets rid of sanding scratches.
Unfortunately it then started raining so I had to work on other things.
The side marker light reproductions are pretty nice. Unfortunately the reproduction side marker lamp wiring harness bulb holders won’t fit in the holes.
A measurement of each confirmed the fact that a bigger object won’t fit in a smaller hole.
I used a tapered repair reamer to enlarge each hole where the socket fit perfectly. An adjustable reamer would have made the job easier and more precise but I don’t have one that size.
Had to restore a few more small items. The hood ground was original to the car and was just black with corrosion. I polished it with a Brite Boy pad, grey Scotch Brite, then Mothers Metal Polish. The last picture shows where it goes.
The windshield washer nozzles also were original to the car. I bead blasted them and sent them out for black zinc plating. They came back today. On the left in the upper picture is a 1967 windshield washer nozzle for comparison. The earlier ones were clear zinc plated so they are more of a silver color. Also the 1967 version only has a single squirter hole, where the 1968 version has a double crimped hole on the end.
Got all the tilt - away parts painted black Charcoal metallic and then hit them with a matte clear coat. I pinned the turn signal switch connector. Note that the service replacement switches have two extra wires. I put shrink tubing over the ends and tuck them back in the harness. The two extra wires are Brown, and Yellow with black stripe.
