Guys,
The original three pin sending unit in my car is horrible after sitting in a dry tank for 35 years.
Question is it better to simply buy a new Dorman unit without the low fuel light, or send the old one out to be rebuilt? If better to use a new unit, how do you connect the single pin to the three socket XR7 plug?
Mike
Don’t give up on it. I’ve cleaned up some pretty nasty units. You can take everything apart except the low fuel sensor. It probably stopped working 10 years after it was installed anyway! Clean everything real good and then test it. If it works throw a new fuel filter and float on it and use it. If you prefer to go new you need a jumper wire from the plug to the single prong fuel sending unit. You can also take a standard plug and wire out of a parts car harness, splice a single plug on the end, and plug it back into the XR7 harness in the trunk.
I had mine rebuilt and it works great, but you also have the option of using your sender (assuming it still works as a sender) and add a low-fuel sensor to that.
On 69/70 (not sure about 67/68), you can plug the three socket (which is for two wires and one plastic pin) directly on a one prong sender and still look factory. That’s how Isabel rolls (along with an ELFI kit that I build and sell).
Its a no brainer… You have a car worth six figures when you are done, do not take the chinese “it almost fits” short cut. It will cost you thousands when you sell.
Missed that it was a GTE, Don is on the money!
The fuel sender actually cleaned up ok once all the crud was removed. The exterior is nice and complete, the inside tank portion has some surface pitting, the filter was very brittle and fell to pieces, the float was completely gone. This is actually very close in configuration to the Dorman unit, except for the single versus triple plug.
Looks like you need a few parts. The arm for the float is missing as well as the float. You will also want to pry the tabs back and open up the sending unit as it will need to be cleaned up inside. The thermistor will also need to be replaced. It is soldered inside the brass can. And finally you will need to re solder the brass can to the tube.
I thought that John’s Classic Cougars used to restore them. You might try contacting him, if you don’t want to tackle it all yourself.
https://www.johnsclassiccougars.com/
*Edit: I found the link on thier site!
https://www.johnsclassiccougars.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=GSU-9275-B
Hi Bob,
A friend gave me your info - I have a '68 XR7 I am restoring. I cleaned up the original sending unit for the fuel but does not seem to be working (light on overhead console flashes constantly) - I saw that you make a kit. How much does it cost and what is in it? Thanks Very Much
Keep in mind the repro units are now in stock.
This is not caused by the sending unit. The prove out terminal for the Low Fuel sender is mounted to the starter solenoid on the “Start” side (rear) terminal. Someone inadvertently mounted it to the battery side by mistake, giving you a constantly flashing warning light.
The condition you describe would be a constant on LF lamp Royce.
Bucco, I will message you.
The original Low Fuel lamp has a built in flasher. So no, it would not be steady, it would flash as stated.
Royce - is that a first generation thing, or should my '69 flash too? I’m pretty sure I used a standard 194 bulb on mine.
Thank You for the tip Royce!
Oops, my bad, sorry about that Royce! I had forgotten that the LF system on the first generation flashes.