1969 Convertible 408 Stroker in South Australia

Good troubleshooting! You probably had a bad connection at the connector. That motor can draw well over 20 Amps, so the connector pins need to be clean and fit together tight. I used a bronze brush to clean them and put a light coat of conductive grease on them.

Edit:
Unlike the power window switches which simply reverse polarity to the same motor winding to reverse the window motor, the convertible top switch applies 12V to one of two separate motor windings on the pump motor. One is forward and the other is reverse with the other side of both grounded. So the ground connection needs to be clean and tight as well.

Ahh, thanks… I thought it was a polarity flip… the fact either wire carries a positive to a common earth makes sense.

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I am surprised, that I am not giving myself a thorough uppercut!

So this happened;

My hood failed open… Pressed for time, I parked it up a couple of months ago. A couple of weeks ago, I thought I would look into it.

You may notice that on this build thread, (two posts up fourteen months ago) Calicat patiently explains that it is power down either cable , then a comon earth strap to ground.

One post up, the penny dropped for me… Well fourteen months later, the penny had completely un-dropped… I had completely forgotten, made exactly the same assumptions as a year earlier… and ripped my dashboard/crash pad out (in a fit of let’s get this $heat done!)

Except Calicat was right, and I ripped it all out for nothing!

My cluster has been a source of frustration since I bought the car, but I was too scared to dive into it… effectively only the tach lit up at night, a horrid fluro green. So I ordered some LED wedges, and again with the help of the group…

I now have a perfect brightness, pleasant blue glow across the cluster….

I also prewired audio, which I will pick up on this build thread.

When this car was built in the early nineties, the original builder built a tragic light weapon, it was nearly ā€œlit fuseā€ un drivable (the owner before me dropped the stallie from 3500 to 2500, and swapped the pumpkin from 3.9 to 3.5, I put a smaller carb on- which I am thinking of reversing) . A stereo was an afterthought.

It had a single DIN 90’s Pioneer head unit , and two six inch speakers under the seat (literally) un baffled or boxed.

And sounded terrible! I am not in a position financially to do a stereo install. But I managed to rescue gear from when my 1989 Suzuki Vitara ( Sidekick in the US) was written off. I was using that thing on the farm, and it was fun enough to drive around in… so I bought a cheap android head unit, and for a laugh, a couple of active subwoofers.

When I got rear ended in it (and yes, it hurts when a Ute hits a Sidekick) insurance let me travel to the impound and pull the stereo.

The car had minimal wiring, antenna, power, Accessories and earth to HU and four speaker wires (rear to boot but never connected). I spliced in an ISO connector wiring loom whilst I have the dash out room. And ran microphone (for hands free/ CarPlay) and GPS cables.

I fished pos and negative amp power through the firewall having removed the cluster, (this was something I could not do without cluster out) I also put in an amp trigger and fished both down the door jamb and through the sill. The amps both had speaker line level inputs on computer style connectors, so I fabricated some splitting pig tails.

I turned the system on, and the line level inputs sounded horrible… so I back-fished through a set of RCA and removed the pig tails.

My lower console was fully butchered, I have not cut any further, so please don’t hate on me. Also, yes I know all of it is cheap, and not worthy of the car. The important thing is the pre wiring, it sounds much much better than before (with door speakers to come) I have full CarPlay, back up satnav, hands free calling (which may be full shouting due to how loud the v8 is!).

In future, a couple of door speakers to be worked out, and when I can afford it , swap head unit and subs for better.

I was working on the cluster at the same time, so I had to go back and make it more aqua, to match the LED!

I wanted to give the GPS antenna its best chance, so I taped it above the unconnected air registers. That would have it shielded by the front center (unconnected) speaker, so I pulled that out . I thought if it was original someone might want it (free to good home)… but it is a fragile weathered paper coned $hite thing… kinda dodged up crap looking, unlikely to be oem.

The fact there was no Mercury Cougar logo in the Agama Android skin was pissing me off. It was really setting off my OCD… closest I could get was ā€œMustangā€

So, during my lunch break I used my Co-Pilot AI test license (I am not Microsoft smart, I am just asking it stupid questions to ensure proprietary info and IP doesn’t leak out)

I asked it to create a circular 60s style chrome Mercury Cougar logo on a black background with teal highlights ( four quick iterations mainly to sort the ribs) and within five minutes I had the finished icon.

Getting it into Agama on a Joying head unit was a 4 hour head fart…. Got there in the end…

Our AI is not allowed to steal IP, so I can’t manipulate the Cat Head nor the Walking Cat… this was generated independently from first principles. Beats a Mustang logo (not that there is anything wrong with that…)!

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