1969 Eliminator

Was looking for a project car for my 14 year old son and I to work on. We came across a '69 yellow Eliminator (we have the Marti report). Overall, the body is in great shape. Needs some interior work and going over everything with a fine tooth comb. After getting it started (discussed in another thread) it now turns over.

We would like to keep the car as original as possible, with possibly some upgrades under the hood for reliability. Not interested in restoring it to show quality or extreme modification. It seems like a great car for me and my son to spend time over (we already replaced the starter together).

I will try to update as our project moves forward.

Wow, looks pretty clean. Where you located?

Tulsa.

I want to go over every area of the car, replacing and cleaning as needed.
I am going to change the oil, plugs at first. After that, I need a step by step method of checking everything out (I will tackle interior last).

For the ones that have done this in the past, what was your method? Did you start with the engine, brakes, electrical? Any suggestions?

Yea, that looks real straight!

Mike_B_SVT will definitely be chiming in here soon, he is the guru 4 u!
https://classiccougarcommunity.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=247

That looked like a good buy for a 69 Eliminator. Had a co-worker located in SC ask me about it as he was interested in buying it. But, he was a couple days late spotting it on Craigslist as it already sold on Ebay.

Sweet! I was wondering who ended up with that one, and where it went :slight_smile:

I sent you a PM with my email and whatnot. I have a little history and info about your car that I can pass along if you would like.

Does this E-cat look familiar? As seen on the streets of Portland in 2010.

I would say start with the item(s) that prevent you from being able to drive it.

If it won’t start, then that’s a problem. Get it starting and running fairly reliably - at least well enough that you can idle it and move it around if you need to while you work on other things.

If it won’t stop, that’s a problem too - and one you may not realize you have until you get it started and running. Bleeding brakes is fairly easy and cheap, and a good maintenance item to perform since you have no idea when it was done last.

Electrical… well, so long as your brake lights and turn signals work, you can drive it during the day. Don’t need sequentials, but they sure are nice :slight_smile:

…speaking of turn signals, mine just went out the other day :-/ So I’ll be going through all that troubleshooting soon.

Looking forward to seeing more of your car as you guys go through it!

Update:

Changed oil and oil filter (someone had written 12/13/2012 on the old filter, so looks like time to change it!).
My 14 year old son did the whole thing, his first oil change. With Jiffy Lube and newer cars, I am betting he is one of first of his friends to do so…

We drove it around the driveway in circles again. The brakes are very poor. Opened up the master cylinder and fluid is low and looks very dirty. I know it probably needs complete brake job, just tackling the little stuff first.

In park, it idles very high (between 1700-1900). Something else to figure out. One step at a time.

Update:

Will have some time in next couple of weeks to work on it. Here is my plan.

  1. Spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, air filter, fuel filter
  2. Upgrade to pertronix ignition and coil (have already ordered from WCCC)
  3. Replace radiator, hoses, water pump, thermostat (they all look like they will give anytime)
  4. Rebuild carburetor

Couple of questions for everyone on the above.
#1, pretty straight forward, should have no problems
#2, I have looked at previous posts on the ignitor upgrade and it looks not too hard
#3, There are a bunch of different pumps that I can buy. Would you purchage the “heavy duty” one? Did you all paint it Ford Blue before installing it?
Also, is something on top of the thermostat housing that looks like should be hooked up, not sure (pictures attached).
Also, the hose from the passenger side of the water pump goes up to the engine at a very acute angle. From photos of restored engines, it appears this hose is supposed to go up to the firewall. Is this the heater hose? Why would someone bypass this?
#4, Carburetor is filthy. Was planning on purchasing a rebuild kit. Has anyone had any experience doing this? This would be my first time.

Also, wires on driver’s side of engine look like they need to be replaced (looks like goes to coil, the engine, and below fuel filter? picture attached). I have not traced it back to the firewall. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.



Other pics


Great find! That’s one of the better ‘needs work’ 69s I’ve seen in a while.

Also, is something on top of the thermostat housing that looks like should be hooked up, not sure (pictures attached).

That is the Distributor Vacuum Control Valve. There is a nice write up 72HCODE on the 7173 Mustangs Forum describing it’s function here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-under-the-hood-mysteries-distributor-vaccum-control-valve

Or, for the link challenged :wink: :

Under the hood mysteries: Distributor Vaccum Control Valve.

What is it? what does it do? is it an emissions control device?

This is what a Distributor Vacuum Control Valve or Ported Vacuum Switch looks like

[Image: vacuumswitch.jpg]

This little device may not appear to be all that important in fact most people believe it to be a direct part of the evil emissions system, but it has a big job to do when your engine gets too hot. The threaded end looks a bit like an engine temperature sensor or a thermostat, and that’s because it is.

It’s normally mounted on the intake manifold or engine block where it can sense coolant temperature. On the 351 Cleveland or 302 there is a port for it right on the water pump housing around the alternator.

[Image: 0900c15280053c99.jpg]

The three ports at the other end are for vacuum connections. One goes to full manifold vacuum, another to carburetor vacuum or ported vacuum, and the third goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor.

[Image: dist-vac-valve-6.jpg]

At normal engine temperatures, the distributor gets ported vacuum, which is 0 psi at idle. During extended idling on a hot day in bumper to bumper traffic, the engine temperature can start to rise pretty fast, especially with air conditioning on. That’s when this little device goes to work.

When engine temperatures reach about 225 degrees, this switch changes the distributor vacuum advance source from ported to full manifold vacuum, which is high at idle. This advances the timing and engine rpm increases.

The result is increased radiator fan speed and coolant flow through the engine and radiator, which tends to bring the temperature down.
Once the sensor determines the coolant temperatures have dropped to a safe level, it reverts back to ported vacuum and the engine timing returns to normal, returning the idle rpm to its normal setting.

Chances are most people have never even noticed when this device is protecting their engine, they just notice that the temperature gauge drops a bit, or the HOT light on the instrument panel extinguishes.

This Valve is a compensation to the emission system. It addresses a problem that can occur with lower timing at idle and engine overheating. since all 71-73 cars were designed to use ported manifold vacuum as an emissions reduction at idle if you have an A/C car with heavy load on accessories and you want to maintain stock functions of the engine, its a good idea to restore this valve if it is missing from your vehicle.

Personally i think its pretty trick having the ability to change the type of vacuum the distributor sees at idle based on Engine temperature, even if the trade off is reduced idle emissions, and emissions control is evil.

now at a car show when somebody points to one of these valve and doesn’t know what it is or takes out a cross and shoots garlic at it, you can tell them what you learned here Smile.

Update:

Replaced the spark plugs (with iridiums, I maybe overkill), plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, air filter. My son did one half and I did the other.

To my surprise, there was already a pertronix ignition installed (looks like a pertronix 1). I have already ordered the pertronix 2, so I will go ahead and install it. I did notice that the pertronix positive was hooked directly to the coil, and from the posts I have read on this was not the optimal way to hook it up. When I get the 2, I will install it correctly.

Well, next is brake job. I have done disc brakes before, so I am not afraid of our front brakes; the rear brakes are drum. I have not done drum brakes before (I have just seen internet examples, but no personal experience).
Would it be safe to just do the front disc brakes and eventually do the rear drum later date? Or just suck it up and go for it and do the rear drum at the same time?
Thanks.

Do a complete brake job. Lines, seals, wheel cylinders, make everything like new. You do not want a brake system or suspension part to fail as the two work together. Just think about not being able to stop or control that car. Everything else can be fixed later.

Are you sure these things need to be replaced? If it aint broke, don’t fix it… yet.
Given that your water pump is unpainted, it was probably replaced in the past. I would hold off on that until you have proof that it has problems.
If there is no flow through the radiator (leave cap off and let it idle, you should see flow after car comes up to temp and the thermostat opens), or it shows signs of leaking, then it probably needs replacing. Or if you remove the belts and spin it by hand and the bearings feel “rough”.

If you are having overheating issues (which you may not know until you get it more road worthy), it could be the pump or the fan clutch, or thermostat, or radiator, or timing, or… the list goes on. Deal with that once you find you actually have a problem.

Thermostat → as I mentioned above, leave the radiator cap off and make sure it is opening when the car starts to come up to temp. Look for the flow in the radiator. You can buy a cheap thermometer to set in the radiator and check the coolant temperature when the thermostat opens. That will tell you what temp thermostat is in there, as well as give you a ball park of what the temp is if you compare to your temp guage.

Hoses → yeah, replace them. Coolant, yeah, replace that too. Cheap insurance and easy to do.

The hose that loops back to the water pump IS your heater hose. If it is bypassed like that, chances are the heater core is leaking :frowning:
Check the video from West Coast Classic Cougar on '69 heater core replacement to get an idea of what is involved with replacing that, and planning for other repairs while you are in there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SubvM762z0g

Distributor Vacuum Control Valve has been explained. What else you may need is the vacuum hose kit to replace the missing lines.
Here is an example: Marti Auto Works - DVK-9 - DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM LINE KIT

Or, you can go to the parts store and buy some vacuum lines and do it up yourself. It should be similar to this…

Easy peasy! I did mine as my first ever, and I was unimpressed by the lack of complexity in the “mystery box” :-/ It is a handful of bolts holding together about 7 main pieces, with a few other doo-dads hooked in here and there.

The keys are preparation, patience, and pictures. Figure out what kit you are going to need and order it up (I found this to be the hardest part). Be patient and careful when taking it apart and take lots of pictures and jot yourself notes if you need to.
You’ll be tempted to clean it and call it good, but before you do make double sure that all those little passage holes ARE clean and flow smoothly. It only takes a small piece of junk to clog something up and cause issues after your rebuild.

Wiring: There is a wiring harness replacement kit for the connections to the: coil, oil pressure sensor, and temperature sensor.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/d4az-14289-rr.html
It simply plugs in near the firewall. Easy to change, but you may find that your coil is not in the correct location to allow the factory style connector to reach. Maybe. I’m not 100% sure on that.
Mine was a melted mess with lots of bare patches and cracked insulation. One of the first things I bought for my car.

I don’t know the 351 setup very well, but it looks like you have an extra spring for your throttle return. It could be that the single spring was replaced with an incorrect weaker spring, or possibly the carb throttles are sticky and needed extra help returning to closed.
Also, that fuel filter is an extra add on. I’m not sure where they are on the 351 cars, but I’ve heard bad stories about those add on filters leaking.

Ok, time for bed. Hope I was able to help you out some. Good luck and keep us posted!

Mike B.,

Thanks for the info! Very helpful

  1. Going to do complete brake job first. That way I can safely get it down the road to see how it drives (rather than driving circles in the driveway).
  2. Going to rebuild the carb (it is a Holley 4160 model, they have a kit on JEGS).
  3. Fix various wiring issues (mine also is a melted mess, with exposed wires, etc).
  4. Yes, I noticed that the fuel filter does not match. I’m going to pull it and get the correct metal version when I do the carb.
  5. Looks like I can wait on the vacuum control valve. I’ll tackle that later.
  6. What concerned me about the water pump is that it is completely rusted on the outside, so I figured it must be very old. Not leaking, and like you said, not sure about overheating issues until I drive it a bit. The radiator looks ancient as well, so I know that will be on the list soon.
  7. I thought that was the heater hose. That’s what I was afraid of (only reason to bypass it is if it is not working). I will probably tackle that issue when I evaluate the pump/radiator.

You should be able to remove the radiator easily and take it to a local radiator shop for cleaning and pressure testing. Check the part number and date stamp on the side strap near the battery, if you are curious about it being original or not. They do make replacements that look much like the originals, and it will be clean, and probably have more cooling capability than the original.

So I am in the process of doing a complete brake job. Need some help with one thing. The brake booster, do I need to remove it and get it rebuilt?
For reference, I have not driven the care down the road because the brakes are poor, so I am going over every part of the brake system.
Thanks.

with out test driving it, you could disconnect vacuum line if you hear vacuum loss it is a good sign. but if you see brake fluid behind master cylinder mounting diaphragm could be damaged.

Going to clean the underside and determine what needs to be painted and/or replaced this week.

I also have a list of parts I need to get; after reviewing the list, it may be just easier to sign my payroll check over to Don at WCCC, since it looks like he’s going to get most of it anyway…