Hello,
I have a fairly large gap between my front and rear windows on both my passenger and drivers side doors at the roof line.
I was able to get the gap down to about a 1/4 on an inch on the passenger side (I’d prefer no gap but It’s better then it was), but the driver side is not cooperating as well.
On the drivers side the gap is 3/4" or more at the roof line and the front window adjustment is all the way to one side. It would need to move farther to lessen the gap. My question is “Are the rear windows adjustable”? If they were that would seem to be the next place to work. I loosened the 4 bolts in that are in the door jam but that didn’t seem to allow for any movement on the rear window.
Any or all suggestions would be appreciate. I’ve included a photo of the gap to show you what I’m talking about if it is not clear.
Thx,
Jay
Yes, this bracket located at the bottom of the track is adjustable.
Don,
Appreciate the quick response. That’s good news.
Do you get to this adjustment by removing the rear seat and interior quarter panel?
Thx,
Jay
Took out the back seat and removed the rear quarter panel (if that’s what you call them) and the rear window adjustment was all the way to the one side. Moved it to the other end of the adjustment and now it is MUCH better!
I included a picture of the adjustment bolt and the better aligned driver side window.
At this point I think the only thing to do to make this any better is to replace the rubber on the windows and that’s too big of an effort IMHO.
I can live with this gap.
Thanks for the help!
Jay
Unless you know the history of your car back to day 1 and can verify that none of the glass has been changed I would check the date codes on the glass. There are 3 different door glass sizes, 1969, early 1970 glue in and 1970 bolt in. The quarter glass is also a different size between 1969 and 1970 and is convertible only. If you have a mixed group of glass it will result in a large gap between the two pieces of glass or an overlay of the two pieces. If you would have a mixed set of glass you can adjust things until you are blue in the face and you will never get the glass to properly seal everywhere.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
All I can say is it has glued on glass and the etching on the glass has the name “Carlite” within an Oval.
With the wording “SOLID SAFETY GLASS” above it.
Possibly someone who knows these cars can verify that would be original glass or not.
I actual think I have the alignment pretty good after the adjustment. At this point I think it’s replacing old worn-down rubber to make the fit water tight.
“Carlite” only tells us that it is Ford glass, not that it is original to your car. You need to get the date code. Look at where you found the Carlite logo and you will see a number and a letter, something like 8M, 9A, 0C. Also look for the word “Tempered” or “Sun-X”. You should find all 4 pieces of glass with the same word. The date codes may not all match 100% but if it is original glass they should all be very close.
It sounds like you have the gap between the door glass and the quarter glass fairly close. Have you checked how the door glass matches up with windshield pillar weatherstrip? What about how the rear of the quarter glass seals to the roofrail weatherstrip?
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Randy,
Under the “Carlite” is the Word “TEMPERED” and under that is “Sun-X” followed by some letters and numbers that are really difficult to read.
I have a magnifying glass to help me read it.
I’m seeing DOT-76 on one piece
I see an “AS2” on both the rear pieces of glass (I think) it’s really small and faded.
I do have it aligned much closer, not perfect but close. I have new front window weather stripping on order and hopefully that will make it even better.
The front window pillar weather stripping aligns well with the glass, no issue there. On the passenger side I did have to move the upper portion in toward the interior a bit, there were 2 holes for that upper screw and I used the “Inner” one which allowed for the window to close without to much pressure. The driver side front window was already maxed inward so I didn’t make any adjustments there, only the back window was adjusted on that side.
As for the upper edge with the convertible top, that also has a large gap, but I think that I’m missing the rubber that goes with the top. I’m still looking at getting that item. Possibly using Steel rubber products for that.
Jay
The measurements for the 4 sizes of glass are on our site.
Jay,
Having “SUN-X” means that you have tinted glass. The piece that says DOT-76 I believe is a later piece of replacement glass. The “AS2” stands for the American Nationals Standards Institute for glass. AS1 will be on a windshield and AS2 will be on tempered glass. If you go back and relook at the AS2 logo then just look a little directly to the left of the AS2 you should see the date code.
There is a piece of weatherstripping that runs the entire length of the convertible top across the top of the door and quarter glass. It will extend downward to match the curve of the quarter glass. The original style correct weatherstrip for this application is reproduced. I would recommend that you purchase the correct weatherstrip rather than the hope it fits and seals piece.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
It took me a long time, many tries and a few modifications to get all of the windows to line up on my '69 convertible. Did you get yours yet? I still need to install the door glass to quarter window seals I bought from WCCC.
I installed the new door glass to quarter window seals, it helped a little bit on the passenger side but not the drivers side.
To get it any better I’ll have to elongate the adjustment slots on the front and rear windows and that will be a lot of effort to remove and rework.
Maybe I can do it “in place”, I think for this season I’m done (got to have something to work on next year).
Like I said before, it is much better then it was, it’s just not perfect (meaning rain would get in a little if caught in a rain storm).
The actual rear windows can be shifted toward the front of the car and back toward the rear of the car with just a little bit of force. This is good for the passenger side as it pretty much will make the gap non existent, but it will tend to revert to the wider gap once you roll the window down and back up. Not sure if a little bit of movement is normal or there is something warn out and or broken.
They seem glued in ok, from what I could see there was some “play” in the regulators allowing for the movement.
I fought the right rear window adjustment on my car for a while. I was having a problem where the rear window would move after driving for a while and hit the door glass. I had it and the guide in and out a few times, smacked the window roller rivets with a hammer and punch to reduce slop there, replaced one of the rollers and adjusted like crazy. Finally I ended up elongating the slot for the rear stop and moved the stop down farther. Now when the window bracket hits the stop the top front of the window cocks back. I haven’t had a chance to drive it like this to see if it will move towards the door glass on it’s own, but it is definitely a lot better than it was.
I had the same thoughts and issues with being able to move the windows back and forth. Have you had the window out of the guide yet? I think there is supposed to be some movement there the way it was designed and made, but 2 of the rivets on mine were loose adding to the movement. I got a new window roller and rivet from WCCC. My brother and I drilled and tapped the rivet to get it re-affixed to the window bracket. Even after tightening up the factory rivets and replacing the one roller and rivet I still had back and forth movement, but not quite as bad.
I have never taken the windows out, only adjusted them in and out.
I think elongating the adjustment slots is probably my best solution.
Like I said that’s a winter project, at this point I have it good enough.