Any suggestions on how to get the large nut off the strut rod on a 1970 cougar xr7? I don’t have a lift so I am doing this from the ground and getting the proper leverage and force is difficult.
Have you tried pre-treating it with penetrating oil? Or putting heat to it?
The oil yes, but the heat not yet
Do you have an impact wrench? I can’t recall what I used to get mine off years ago but I would think that a good impact wrench-pneumatic or battery-would zip the nut off.
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How about standard box end wrench, with another box end wrench to use as a cheater bar for leverage.
I thought about that one, how do I set that up? Using another box wrench as a cheater bar
Ground ground? Or jackstands? I would start with penetrating oil for at least a week or two. Leaf spring front bolts share the reputation.
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Also take a wire brush to the threads that you are going to be moving that nut over. And add more penetrating oil. It would not be a bad idea to oil it daily for that week.
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I have been putting penetrating oil on it every day this week. Will continue till the end of the week. Thank you matt
I started the wire brush and using the penetrating oil all this week. Thanks for the tip badcatt.
Don’t forget, wax will get stupid thin- Heat up the rod, melt a piece of candle on it, and then hit it with the wrench, or impact-
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Good idea, totally forgot about the wax. I am using a hand held torch (purchases at local hardware store), how long would you guys suggest leaving the heat on that nut?
Stop heating it just before the fenders begin to sag! JK 
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As a sidespin - penetrating oil. 50/50 Acetone & ATF, I apply mine with a “blunt” syringe (Amazon by the case). Stop there, or read on - I picked up an old Lincoln welder with metal wheels. At almost 300lbs too heavy to carry around; I need it to roll. Wheels haven’t moved in decades - rusted solid. 24” Stilson wrench and a 250lb friend - no budge. No help torching it. Every other day or so for about 2 weeks I went out and shot it some of my mix. After two weeks I was able to get an 1/8 turn with the Monkey Wrench. Kept working it back and forth and applying more mix and in another couple days I have wheels that spin like ceramic bearings. I swear by “the mix” - over Kroll, PB, Liquid Wrench, etc. etc
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You can also use a dremel tool to cut almost to the threads then hammer a chisel into the cut to spread the bolt apart just enough. That takes the pressure/tension friction off.
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Using a “cheater” bar, pipe, will help greatly. Get the front up as high as you can. An extension on a impact will also help, by lifting by the lower control arm, the strut rod will be level allowing you to get a socket on the nut. 1/2 drive ratchet with the deep socket (i think its 1 1/8).
Please be sure car is safely supported, as you will be putting alot of force into it.
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I can’t speak for anyone else, but the factory nuts on my ‘72 were the old style “lock nuts” that were factory crimped to stay in position. Having said that, it still took me over a month, using a good quality loosening agent-PB Blaster, applied over that time along with heat, and a high-powered impact wrench. Good luck!