1970 Cougar XR7 For sale. EARLY 70 Dearborn, second week car!? White...partially stripped

Neglected Dearborn XR7 which was stripped of it’s blue interior, dash assy, seats, tilt column, and engine.

$1K OBO. Shipping from North Central Coast CA. (35 miles south of San Jose.) I really do not want to part this car out with such a good chassis! Have always regretted cutting up solid sunroof cars in the past for lack of a buyer! Don’t let me cut this one up!!! :slight_smile:

The balance is mostly still there. Signed CA title from prior owner (pre-strip). Not sure of fees due to register in CA at this time. This would be a great car for a rusty car rebuild. Roof however, is really bad, but they can be replaced! Unknown mileage, last registered in perhaps 2016. A-arms appear to have been replaced and then driven some more. I’d guess about 100K on the chassis. Doors don’t drop when you open them…

Car was likely built in second week of Dearborn production. VIN# is under 1000!!!

Originally a well appointed (optioned) XR7. Tilt steering, power seat back releases, AC, tinted windows, Stereo, Outside Protection Group (door edge & front bumper guards, wheel well mouldings.) 351W- 2V, P/S, Power Disc Brakes, 9" rear end (2.75 or 3.00??).

Very solid car as long as you don’t look up at the roof from the inside while it’s daylight…if you do at night you will see stars… Roof is toast. That’s what vinyl tops do…rot roofs. Conversely, the chassis is extremely sound as are the floor pans and fender drops! . Doors both have some issues at front and rear outside skin! Never seen this before! Bottoms of doors are good, as are floor pans, torque boxes, and rear trunk panels…all the normal rusty parts are very good!

What is rusty?: Very lowest corners of rear window as well as all of the flat section of the roof…
The rear decklid along the trim on the underside is showing some rust. Same for hood lip R & L. Not totally wasted, but not pristine. Salvageable. Surface rust on RH fender where paint appears to have been stripped at one time.

Good XR7 hood grill, no cracks but has pitting in vanes. One of the door edge guards is MIA. All four fenderwell moldings are present in good condition. Windshield is cracked, balance of glass is good. Manual windows. One doink in RH rear fender. Extension is cracked. Gas door is MIA. One stereo speaker present in door, one MIA. Small doink in LH sport mirror top.

Has EVAP emission system components in fuel tank and charcoal canister is still mounted to the front a-arm support.

Either the front right fender was replaced, or it was stripped down and repainted long ago. Inner fender panels and shock tower reinforcement areas are rust free as well.

I will try and post as many pictures as allowed. I have about 80 pics and can send you areas that you want to focus on if you request it… Presently it is a roller, not running.

Here are some shots of the car as it sits ready for your haul!

Heater cowl transition.

RH Floor support:

RH Torque box area

RH Door

Front Valance

RH Quarter doink and extension crack,

RH Shock tower reinforcement area. LH looks similar.

RH strut support area. LH looks similar.

Contact me for more as needed.
Steve

SOLD SOLD SOLD

Thanks for looking!
Stay tuned for more!
Steve

1 Like

Fastmerc is a fantastic seller and a great guy! Thanks again, Steve

Are those 1960’s black/gold plates or 1970’s blue/gold plates? I’ve wondered if early 1970 model year cars would have the black or blue plates.

Here’s some DMV trivia for those of you who are interested.

During the latter half of 1969, California’s Black with Yellow automobile sequence plates (ABC 123). first issued for the 1963 registration year, were reaching the bottom of the pile. The plan going forward was to reverse the sequence (123 ABC) and change colors to Blue with Yellow. If an early 1970 Cougar was first sold in 1969 when there was still a supply of Black with Yellow plates at the local DMV office, it would most likely be assigned the next Black and Yellow plate out of the box.

On the other hand if the local DMV office had already run out of Black with Yellow plates, that car would most likely be assigned a Blue with Yellow plate. In either event, that original plate would still be considered a current valid plate today.

By contrast, several years ago the Year of Manufacture (YOM) program was adopted which allows original, legible, clear plates to be assigned to vintage cars.
The original legislation allowed 1969 and older year model cars to run period correct plates from their model year of manufacture.

A couple of years ago, the YOM program was amended and expanded to allow vintage Blue with Yellow plates to be assigned to year model cars from the 1970’s. In my case, my early 1970 Cougar, built in 1969, was eligible for the YOM program under the Blue with Yellow plate amendment. I found a clean, clear, set of early Blue with Yellow plates and had them assigned to my car. I also found a period correct license plate frame from the original selling Mercury Lincoln dealer, now extinct, to tie it all together.

So now you know!

Jeff,

Very good explanation!

I am hoping that I can get a set of blue plates originally issued to a 69 Mustang, which left the state for 30 years, never took the plates off(!!!), reassigned back to the same car that they were issued for!!!???

Should throw them for a loop…???

Cheers!
Steve

Great explanation, and this fits what I remember living in LA at the time. The blue plates started showing up on new cars in late 1969. My car was originally licensed in Jan 70 and got a blue plate.

My first post on the forum, and I get a great answer.

I guess my 1970 Cougar should get the blue/yellow plates, as it’s more correct and now there’s so many black/yellow plates issued. I want to get a personalized plate with 123 ABC format, and I guess I’ll have to get a custom knock off blue/yellow plate because DMV doesn’t issue blue/yellow. Get a black/yellow plate and repaint it?

Steve:

Based upon a buddy of mine picking up a '68 Mustang with original California black plates that was out of the sytem, he had proof the plates were assigned to that car. If you have any California DMV documentation such as a30 year old registration card or a pink slip that shows that plate number assigned to that car, you should have no problem getting the plates “renewed”. Absent that documentation, I expect you would need to follow the YOM process to get those plates “assigned” to that car.

Regards, Jeff

If my memory serves, personalized plates cannot match a standard format plate (such as 123 ABC). There are however several alternatives, one of which involves a company in Germany that stamps out replica plates that look absolutely original. Be aware that Californa DMV did not issue black with yellow personal plates when personal plates first became available in 1969-70.

Note, the State gets grouchy if one uses plates made anywhere other than Folsom Prison !! A cease and desist letter from the Attorney General can be a powerful deterrant. If you can secure a standard issue personal plate from DMV, a replica of the “official” plate in blue as a “show plate” might work for you. Not inexpensive but there are alternatives if you decide to pursue that choice.

How about shopping ePay and searching for a new pair of blue/gold plates?

My 69 CJ Eliminator came with Blue/Gold plates…when I asked the owner about it, he said that his dad bought it in 1970 off of the dealership floor, as it had sat there for a while…! …and it got blue and gold! I think it was an “Axx” series plate indicating it was from the top of the pile!

My other Ford powered car was also a dealer “draw car”, intended to draw in customers! It was built in mid 1969, but never sold until about 1972 or so. Only a picture from when the car was in an accident revealed the “Bxx” series plate! I didn’t get the car with the originals…as I think the body shop may have binned the originals due to damage…??? But I had been on the lookout for a pair of “B” plates…only to find them after I sold the car…figures…!!!

Cheers!
Steve

Jeff,
Thanks for the terminology direct!

I was thinking of the YOM, but technically my car was early enuf in 69 (actually 68 dates all over it…) that it would have had Black/Gold… But your “renewed” term is what I will chase, as I DO have paperwork that shows the original assigned plates to be what I have.

Cheers!
Steve

Do you have a link for the “company in Germany that stamps out replica plates that look absolutely original”?

I am afraid I do not. 20 or so years ago I found an outfit in Florida to stamp out black with yellow personal plates (I had previously obtained the state issued personalized white plates). While I purchased the black with yellow replicas as “show plates” apparently a number of other customers ran them on the street and eventually the California AG sent the guy a cease and desist letter so he no longer makes replica California plates. Some time later, I had seen a car at a show with similar excellent replica plates and the owner mentioned that he had found a place in Germany to stamp them out. I do not recall the name of that vendor. Ask around, I am sure there are folks running the German made plates as I continue to see non official plates on a number of cars on display at local shows.

I did some searching, and found LicensePlates.tv, but they had apparently been spooked by the California AG and had only European versions of CA plates.

I emailed, LPTV, and they replied to check out CalPlates.com. Seems like this will work. Now I have to see if I can get the 123 ABC personalized plate from the DMV.

I ordered a 1960 Legacy (black/yellow) personalized plate from CA DMV, I tried to get the format 123 ABC, but regardless of what I entered, none would take. So I used the format 123 A1B (with a number on the right) and it took.

I am going through this process now, on a 1968 Cougar California Black w/ Yellow plate car. Keep in mind most California DMV personnel do not understand “Old Plate” cars. Fact: Black with Yellow plates were produced from 1963 through 1969. Almost all plates were stamped with the base year “63” in the upper right plate well. I was told my 68, had to have a 68 stamped in the upper right well, not true. I have had to jump through a few hoops, I believe I have 1 hoop left. Now I’m told they want to see the “1968 YOM registration sticker” pink with black writing. Hmmmm how can you see the 1st year sticker if it is covered by who knows how many stickers? Much less remove said stickers without damaging the original sticker? Here is what they said. You can buy that sticker… google it.
So I did. Expecting it next week. How does this even make sense. :man_shrugging:
Dealing with Cali DMV requires a lot of patience, and time.

Start with the basic premise that DMV clerical staff are generally NOT car people, they are clerks. The YOM program is fairly obscure and not something they see every day. Some know more than others but to enhance the liklihood of a successful trip, it is up to you to show the clerk they have the authority to do what you ask of them.

Getting back to the nuts and bolts, for registration year, 1963, it was considered a “plate year” where all vehicles received a new set of plates and the prior 1962 yellow with black plates were retired. No 1963 validation sticker was issued for 1963, thus the stamped '63 in the upper right rectangle of the plate…
Renewing the '63 plates for '64 and each registration period following resulted in an adhesive validtion sticker for that period. What the clerk needs to see is a clear, legible black with yellow plate with the validation sticker for the car’s year model. SInce California only requires one annual validation sticker, I suggest you affix the 1968 sticker on the front plate and call it the rear plate. The clerk will photocopy the plate with the proper validation sticker and send that copy off to Sacramento to complete the process of assigning the YOM plate to your car. What you do with the stack of expired validation stickers on your current rear plate is up to you.

In the event you run up against a defiant clerk, try a different DMV office. I think there are something like 172 field offices in the state, pick another.

That’s just typical BS…make up the rules as you go… BTDT!!! Try getting a permit for house/shop modifications…ugh!

Would it help at all to scrounge up a copy of the YOM and REASIGN procedures, review, comply, then haul plates and the paperwork into DMV?

Use their own documentation against/for/with them! Do their job…

Kinda like dealing with an insurance company for your Cat accident… If YOU take in all the comps for every expensive Cougar you can find for sale…it’s MUCH easier for the insurance co. to pay the money you are asking…you’ve done half of the work! Their half is cutting the check!

This may help many!??
Steve

Steve:

Yes, your analogy to building permits is spot on. I do land use consulting and entitement work mostly on commerial and industrial projects and the complexity of the zoning and general plan amendments along with the ever changing building codes can often be redirected to the finish line if one has access to the rules and regs.

if you are proceeding with the YOM application for a 1970’s year model car, print out the initial Vehicle Code sections for YOM, then the legislative amendment that added Blue with Yellow for 1970’s eligible cars. Print out and complete the forms from the DMV website and bring in the YOM plates you are planning to use (currently clear, and legible, right?) along with the validation tag for the model year of the car. If mention of the YOM program results in a deer in the headlights response, suggest to the clerk to look at their reg manual for guidance. If the reg manual hasn’t been updated to include the 1970’s year model cars hand the copy of the amendment you printed off of the DMV site and that should satisfy the clerk/supervisor they have the authority to process the application to assign the YOM plates to your car. You will walk out with a temporary operating permit and the new reg card with current validation tags come in the mail within 90 days (my experiece).

Regards, Jeff