I am about to put in a new headlight switch (got it from WCCC) and was wondering if anyone had any advice to offer before doing this update? I have no instrument lights and from what I have read hopefully a new switch will help, is this the case? Are there any tips/tricks that you can offer on doing this job? Any help very much appreciated. Thanks Chris
Only tip I know , if you have the new switch you need to locate the release button with spring under it so that you can find it on the old one while working blind under the dash, disconnect + battery cable, pull the switch stem out as=if turning on head lights, reach under dash and push the release button and pull the stem the rest of the way out. screw the chrome trim off and pull the switch out from behind.
You may have to replace the mounting piece on the new switch with one from the old one.
Keep up with the color of the hoses to where they go and make sure they fit tight, you should be ok.
Thx for the reply catlover, all good tips! I will keep these in mind when I go to do the job over the weekend! Bo ;-}
Usually the instrument lights don’t work because the fuse box contacts are too rusty to make contact with the fuse. I would check that with a meter before doing anything else. The fix is using a Dremel tool to polish the corrosion off the inside of the clips.
I just replaced this switch on my 69 because the rheostat had gone bad. Check the fuse/contacts first like Royce suggested, because replacing the switch is a bit of a pain and there’s no point in replacing a good part.
Getting it out wasn’t too bad, except for having to contort in the floor well to get to the push button to release the knob and shaft. I took a picture of the vac lines so got them back on the right ports. Green, yellow, white stripes should be visible. The plug pulls out straight toward the fender. The switch retainer is the phillips nut the shaft came out from and simply unscrews.
You have to re-use the spacer off your old switch, and mine looked original, so the spot welds were a challenge to break loose without bending the spacer. A really thin and sharp chisel is probably best, but I had an old dull one.
Getting it back in proved to be dicey since I only used some soft adhesive on the spacer to mount it to the switch. I should have JB Welded it and waited overnight, but I was impatient. When I finally did get it aligned without the spacer falling off, getting the retaining screw snugged up was a cinch.
Reconnect the plug, vac lines, and fingers crossed you’ve got lights.
My new switch continues to hiss after fully activating the headlights and the doors are open, so I’m concerned it came with a vacuum leak, and I’m not looking forward to doing this a second time.
Disconnect negative (-) battery cable.