I guess the heat up - cool down cycles I was doing to flush the coolant took its toll. The nipple that heater hose used to attach
To the water pump decided to develop a crack.
What are my odds that I will be successful is removing that nipple from 50+ year old water pump. Or am I actually better off replacing the pump. I was hoping to hold off until I was in a bigger shop so that I could replace it when I pulled the engine for a full rebuild.
Anyone successfully replace this? Any tips?
Steve
Well, I looked closer, while I wasn’t slinging four-lettered crotch words, and noticed the ‘nipple’ was pressed in.
Looks like I am putting in a new water pump(picking up an aluminum one in the morning). Already ordered a new water neck from WCCC(NON-chrome). After this every single part of the cooling system will be new except for the heater control valve and the core(replaced in 94).
All I wanted to do was flush it….
I may be off-base here, but I’m thinking an aluminum water pump on a steel block is going to cause electrolysis issues due to the metal differences. With water as a solvent and providing an electrical pathway, there may be problems.
Anyone want to confirm or tell me I’m full of BS???
From what I understand, electrolysis is a valid concern between dissimilar metals if the coolant breaks down and becomes acidic. And aluminum is much more susceptible than steel. I’ve read that you can measure the voltage potential between coolant and ground to make sure it’s below the threshold for electrolysis, but have never tried it. Fresh coolant prevents it from happening, but I stuck with a cast iron water pump for added assurance.
It shouldn’t be any more concerning than using aluminum heads, should it?
I don’t think so if you keep the antifreeze fresh. Just something to be aware of since our cars sometimes sit around for years with old fluids in them.