351W leaking coolant above starter...

We got this 69 XLR running for the first time in 10 years and it ran like a charm! But, its gotta a small coolant leak where I can’t see, though its leaking off the rear of the starter. I’ll get under there in a few days but curious if there’s a fitting or freeze plug up in there?

I believe there are multiple freeze plugs on the rear of the block. No idea if you can reach it in the car. If you have to pull it to replace one, might as well replace them all while it’s out.

I’d also take a look at the heater hoses that might be split or leaking from the heater connector and weeping back and onto the starter. Just another possibility.

Phew… We got lucky on this one I think. I had to remove the starter to find that it was a rusty freeze plug and rather easy to get at for one of those. The screwdriver went right through it and we pried it right out. Will get a new one tomorrow. :slight_smile:

I had the same problem on mine. However, and here’s a warning for you; the freeze plug hole was corroded quite bad as well, so the only way to properly plug the hole was to use a block heater there. Works well and could be easier to install than a new plug. Good luck.

I too have fought the battle of the freeze plugs. I’d replace one then another one would pop. The ones on the back side f the head are impossible to reach for me, at least.

Yeah, i worry others might be bad but the few I can see look ok… I’ll keep an eye out as I’m working on other things.

Here’s the pix I forgot to attach last time. The starter has a thick coat of rust on it from dripping. I think there should be a tube clamp where that threadhole is?
image2.jpeg

Looks like it was installed backwards.

Best to use brass freeze plugs as replacements.

Looks like the right way to me (but the photo is deceiving).

The light from the angle and stuff catches all kinds of things, but I hope that’s not actually a crack below the plug or the new one isn’t going to fare much better than the previous one. At any rate check it closely when putting the new one in to optimize your chance of simply replacing it being the answer.

Use Dorman’s thick/deep freeze plug they drive in straight w/ a socket & a extension. The one shown is the thin one.

Here’s what I found in a 302, and extra one pushed in & another put on top…


http://www.cougarbill.com/#/1968-xr7-3024v-4speed/

It was bass ackwards.

That pic was right after pulling it, we cleaned it up later and put in a new plug, and no crack. It was just surface rust on the block. The new plug wasn’t brass but it was much thicker, heavier and polished.

Was the cup of the plug facing outward or inward?

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Was the cup of the plug facing outward or inward?
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It was outward, like normal…

Was the cup of the plug facing outward or inward?
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It was outward, like normal…
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That was what I thought, the picture you posted can be deceiving. Thanks.

Umm, no.