Does anyone have any good pictures of a 391 rear end with the correct markings/paint sploches etc… for a 70 xr7 dearborn car? I am restoring one as close to concours as possible and any correct photos would be a great help. Its has a nodular 3rd member 391 gears built april 70. Thanks in advance for any/all pictures!
I recently restored the 9" 3.91 rear on my 1968 1/2 R code. I used mineral spirits and a bristle brush to clean the housing and third member first. I found an abundance of original markings on my assembly, photographed them, and then duplicated the markings as closely as possible,
I recommend that you try this approach in order to recreate what your car looked like originally rather than trying to emulate stuff that happened on someone else’s car.
I wish I could clean and find original markings but that ship sailed years ago as it was media blasted and epoxy primered 20 years ago, so I am scouring old photos and trying to piece together anything I can. I will post progress pics soon. thanks.
Can’t help you on a 70 rear end. Try posting the question on the Vintage Mustang forum or do a search on that site. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/forums/concours-forum.67/
Search member on here: J_Speegle and send him a PM. He should have the answer on the 70 rear end.
Semi Finished product! Comments, suggestions?
Looks nice let’s see more please!
Very nice - wish mine looked that good! Thats the exact same approach I took on my 351c to recreate the original stickers and stamps. But of course we were fortunate to still have the original evidence to work from. Yes, more pics please!
As you wish!
Guess your going for the rattle can/painted natural surfaces. Understand why some might choose this path but the yoke, U joint retainers, machined surfaces, axle bracket mount/bracket would all have a different look/finishes on an original
Remember to take the brake line tag off 
I appreciate your evaluation, I put a coat of 2k clear on the yoke, guard and the machined areas on the 3rd member to keep rust away, would boeshield have been a better choice? Base/satin clear on the housing and more gloss on the backing plates for that quasi dipped look. Still waiting on the diff tag. Did I make other glaring errors that need fixed? I’m here to learn! Thanks for the input. oh yeah, I won’t forget to take the tag off the brake line!
Here’s what I started with…
Go to AMK and buy new nuts and copper washer for the third member would look better.
Those are new AMK nuts/washers.
Ok, on my phone it looks like they’re painted red oxide.
They do look close to the same color, I can see why you thought that. 
Clear or oils/waxes is a choice. Often a result of where you live and how the car is stored as well as other considerations.
Clear will yellow, chip or peel over time and its a pain to repair or redo. Oils/waxes can collect dust and dirt and requires recoating but any rust is quick and easy to fix and can be done in place while stripping and reclearing means you have to deal with overspray and such. Have done both and I gave up on clear. But that’s me.
Did you bead blast or sand blast those before you cleared them. That might be why they look the same in the pictures. U joint retainers, pinion yoke shield and snubber bracket would be like fresh smooth steel. The bracket lighter/shinier where it was bent and formed. Sometimes you have to sand with fine paper to get the surfaces back to smooth or sometimes you can wire wheel then steel wool (to get rid of the patter the wire wheel leaves) and even use the drier method of gun bluing repair fluid to get it back looking original
Of course allot of things can get lost when using digital pictures and posting them for others to see on their monitors.
Still have my email. Got maybe (depends on you) a couple more related to the backing plates . Will have to figure out which company provided yours - Hopefully its the same company for both