What should I use to repair cracks in the potmetal grille assembly? I’ve got five different grilles, and they all seem to have at least one crack somewhere. Would an epoxy be strong enough to use? (I currently have JB Weld and PC-7). Or is it best to braze the repair with a low-temp rod like Super Alloy 1? http://www.muggyweld.com/?view=potmetal
I thought enough of the muggyweld to actually buy some. Unfortunately I haven’t tried it yet to see how well it works.
A friend of mine hit a underwater tree stump with his aluminum boat. I was able to repair the floor of the boat by welding it. One repair that could not be welded because it was out of reach was a brace in between the bow and the floor. To repair it I called another friend that does auto body work and he brought over some 3M 8115 metal bonding adhesive. It worked great and is supposed to be stronger than welding. The only catch was that he had a special gun to apply/mix the two part adhesive. I think this could be an option for your grille.
Steven
3m 8115 metal bonding
http://www.tcpglobal.com/3m/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=MMM+8115
I’m still not sure which route I’m going to take, but I went ahead and ordered some muggyweld to experiment with (dang that stuff ain’t cheap!) I’ve got a bunch of plastic dash bezels that need repairing, so that’ll keep me occupied while I await the shipment. I’ll let you know how it goes once I receive the muggyweld brazing rods.
Thanks for the tip! I took a look at some datasheets on the 8115, and it’s definitely a robust product. And less than $50 for the adhesive cartridge wasn’t too bad…until I looked at the applicator gun needed…$340!!! While I love 3M products, that will totally blow the budget for this project. Definitely leaning towards the brazing rods at this point.
I had a 67 Oldsmobile and the grille cracked. I brazed it and it lasted 20+ years. Just be careful with your heat.
Interesting, what kind of brazing rod did you use for that? A couple weeks ago I experimented with some brazing rod I’d picked up at an auto swap meet (you know, the punch a hole in the bottom of an aluminum can and braze it closed with a propane torch). I used a potmetal 67 fender extension that I cut a 1/16" slot with a Dremel tool. Started with butane, then propane, then MAPP gas. Never did get the brazing rod to start flowing, with the MAPP gas I started burning a hole through the potmetal. Now that I think about it, I didn’t use any flux, I wonder how much that might’ve helped. Maybe I’ll pick up some flux and try it again.
Standard brass. Acetylene torch, you have to distribute your heat from the crack out and back in. I have used the Alumnaweld sticks with MAPP gas the same way. They are just like leading in seams or soldering. Tin your repair and heat it, then clean it super good with a stainless brush. It should change color. Then heat your work slowly and touch the rod to it when it melts you are dead on.
I wonder how this stuff would work on Quarter panel extensions, to blend them into the fenders?
Not sure. You can lead solder it. Eastwood sells the kit. Or just use a fiberglass resin, so if you don’t like it it can be removed.
I’ve been experimenting with the J-B Weld on a few repairs around the house, with mixed results. Less than 1/8" of J-B Weld just isn’t holding up. Used it on a plastic compressor handle that I reinforced with some clothes hangar wire (and about 1/8" of J-B) and had good results, but just not impressed with its strength in less than 1/8" applications.
Bama91, thanks for the advice but I obviously don’t have the skillset just yet. I recently tried again on my ‘test fixture’ (damaged potmetal fender extension after cutting a 1/16" slot with a Dremel) using propane (I’m afraid to use MAPP gas) with the Alumnaweld. As soon as I get it up to temperature to start tinning, the potmetal starts burning through. Was using some ‘Silver Solder Flux’, but it just wasn’t working for me (getting back to the lack of skillsets maybe?) Is there a better flux I should use?
Al, I absolutely love this stuff! Tried it on a broken sliding glass door handle made of some cast aluminum with excellent results. After experimenting on my aforementioned test fixture, I went ahead with brazing a major crack on my 68 grille assembly. Using a propane torch with the Muggyweld Super Alloy 1 and supplied flux, it starts flowing really well. My only problem is not being able to properly tin the surface before flowing in the repair, since it starts flowing too quickly, resulting in excess metal being applied and having to file/grind off the extra metal. For the next repair I’ll try to flatten the 3/32" brazing rod which may help in the tinning process. Still going through the learning curve, but brazing with this low-temp brazing rod is the only way to go, in my opinion, for repairing these potmetal grille assemblies.
Thanks for the update Dave. I’m glad to know it works and I didn’t waste my money.
So how is the cost-factor, brazing vs buying a replacement part? I have NO welding / brazing experience, so I have no clue how to begin to repair mah potmetal stuff.
For something like a grill there is no comparison. Repairing a fender extension for a '68 may be an exercise in futility though. I’m pretty sure if you just place an order with Don he’ll give you one for free.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/69grille.html Oh… I dont know. VS
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LOL! 2NDXRND, you really put it into perspective! I’m just exploring ways of taking these ‘throwaway’ parts and putting them back into service. Part of the problem is locating pristine parts, then having the seller just throw them into a cardboard box and trust UPS to treat them ‘gently’. On the 68 grille assembly that I’m currently experimenting with, in addition to the two cracks I’ve identified, I just found another crack that is forming but not really evident unless really scrutinized. How many of the grilles currently on eBay have similar flaws (that can’t be detected by the supplied photos?)
So, I’m just having fun with my $70 worth of low-temp brazing rod and seeing what I can do with it! Always looking for alternate restoration techniques…
Dave, it’s the smart a$$ in me. Some days I honestly can NOT help myself. Another idea I’ve been toying around with, is having someone “burn” grill shapes out on a laser. If a person had decent headlight buckets to build around, I think it could be done.
I hear ya, sometimes I find myself responding to emails at work, or forum posts… then I stop and read what I wrote… and delete it, 'cuz I sound like an @ss!
LOL!
So, back to the topic… Are you telling me it would only cost me $60 in welding rods to mess up a $1600 grille?? Sweet! Err… Sh!t!
Question, is this “muggy weld” something that would be suitable for repairing the grille mounting tabs? I’ve one that has broken off.
Yeah, I’d hate to spend WAY too much to mess up something expensive!