Hello, I,m looking for help with my 68 cougar. Turn signals are not working. Here is what I got. Tail lights and brake lights work. front side markers and headlights work. front parking lights only light up with parking lights on only, not when headlights on, although side markers stay lit with headlight switch in either position. When turn signal switch is activated in either direction each light on dash lights up steady but no signal at front or rear. If i activate the hazard switch Both dash indicator light illuminate and dim not blink at intervals. with hazards on I now get driver side only front parking light flashing as well as drivers rear center bulb . With that flashing , if I turn the turn signal switch in either direction the rear drivers tail light starts flashing in sequential. and the dash indicator lights start flashing. The unit in the trunk has been upgraded and all connections seem to be good. Any suggestions ? Thanks Pauly G
Nice! itās sequencing now, BUT left turn, the outer and inner on the left is working and the middle on the right.
Right turn, the inner and outer is blinking along with the left inner.
So Iām thinking new K10 and rewire it to the original set up on the 67?
Thanks again Coach. 2 years of on and off head scratching and diagnosing figured out by you in a few minutes.
Pauly,
The turn signals are powered from the ignition switch thru a 15A fuse whereas the hazards are powered from the starter solenoid thru a separate circuit breaker.
Now I know what you are thinking , but it works when the hazards are on AND you put the turn signal stalk in the left or right mode. Actually there are 2 differences at the junk in the trunk, one is that with hazards on, both left and right control circuits #440 and #441 are active whereas only left/right circuits in left/right mode are active (#440 left #441 right) AND key second difference is that the K10 relay circuit #514 is NOT powered during hazards (disconnects power to inner and outer lights) whereas the K10 relay IS powered during left/right operations (ties inner and outer power from the sequential motor to the inner and outer inputs to the K8/K9 relay).
From your description it appears that power from the ignition switch to the turn signal switch is not being powered. Check the 15A fuse from the Acc post of the ignition switch. Next check the turn signal switch on circuit #8 (Orange-Yellow) to see if it is receiving power. If you still have power here, then with the stalk in left mode, check circuits #440 (White) at the white D4 connector to the K8/K9 relay, circuit 514 (Blue) at the K10 relay and circuit 458 (Orange-Black) at the sequential motorās D43 connector. When the stalk is in right mode, check circuits #441 (Violet) at the black D4 connector, and circuits 514 and 458.
Note with hazards on, circuits #440, 441 and 458 will be powered, not 514 as previously described.
Coach Jack
Kampfen,
I would just bypass the K10 as bypassing it provides the inner and outer inputs to the K8/K9 relay. In reality, when was the last time you used your hazards?
[quote]BUT left turn, the outer and inner on the left is working and the middle on the right.
Right turn, the inner and outer is blinking along with the left inner.[/quote]
Sounds more like wires are crossed or chaffed at this point as before your middles worked appropriately.
Good Luck
Coach Jack
Iāve never used them, this car has never left me stranded the three years Iāve dailied it.
Iām going to rewire them by color code instead of looking into the contacts and see where that takes me.
Thanks again
Thanks coach jack, I just bought the car and trying to get it figured out, what you say makes sense, since I just discovered that the ignition switch plug was melted and someone tried to fix it half ass, waiting on new connector, already bought a new switch and also replaced the starter solenoid as well. so as soon as i get it back together ill see what happens. Thanks again for your advice. Pauly
I would also add a fuse to the main ignition wire. Just in case.
The sequentials are working now, Thanks a ton Coach! Also I was wondering if the Cougars act up if you install a non CANBUS style LED into the tail lights.
Kampfen,
Glad to hear that you got everything working.
On a 67 and 68 Cougar, the sequential motor provides the flashing and sequencing of the taillights, however the K7 relay under the dash is a thermal flasher which is dependent on the current draw with respect to the tailight/front signal bulbs. You can get around this by using an electronic flasher or by using a load resistor, however this defeats the purpose of low amperage LEDs. LEDs really need to use a PWM voltage regulator however this would require electrical modifications to the wiring.
Note, I DO NOT use LEDs in my Cougar!
Coach Jack
Hey coach jack, Iām in the middle of wiring the pigtail for the starter switch. It has the resister wire and the new one seems shorter then the old, and what is the best way and place to slice in the new resister wire into the old harness. traced the pink wire to the connector heading out to the engine compartment. Just want to make sure its right. Also there is an empty terminal in the ignition switch plug, even though there is a wire in the aftermarket one. what does this terminal for.Thanks Pauly
and what is the purpose of the resistor wire ?
Pauly,
On my 67 standard, non A/C, fixed steering column, no tachometer, plain Jane, there are 4 wires at the ignition plug.
- Circuit 16A, Pink resistor wire - provides power to the coil. This is marked I or C on the connector, Powered in Run and Start
- Circuit 640 - Red-Yellow wire - provides power to the Brake warning indicator lamp and the oil pressure indicator lamp. This is marked I or C on the connector along with circuit 16A, Powered in Run and Start.
- Circuit 32 - Red-Blue wire - provides power to the S post of starter solenoid, Powered in Start only. This is marked S on the connector
- Circuit 21 - Yellow wire - Input power provided from the battery. This is marked B on the connector
Note the center post of the ignition switch itself is the Accessory power. Circuit 297 Black-Green will go to a connector where one of the splices from that connector is circuit 8A Orange-Yellow which is the input power to the turn signal switch. Circuit 904 from the Voltage regulator also connects to this terminal. Any other accessories like A/C, tilt/swing away steering column, low fuel relay in the convenience panel, etcā¦ will also connect to this post.
On the side of the switch is a spade connector. This is for circuit 977 Violet which provides a ground for the ignition prove out circuit used for the brake indicator lamp. This ground is only active in the Start position.
Post a picture of your existing plug and also one of the aftermarket plug so we can see why your plug has a missing wire.
As far as the resistor wire, this is to drop the voltage to around 8 volts for the coil, however if you are running an aftermarket coil that requires 12 V, then you can snip this wire and replace it with a regular wire. (Note, if you re running a stock coil or an aftermarket coil that requires a ballast resistor or such, then you need to use the resistance wire or you will blow up the coil!!) On my Cougar, the resistance wire comes out of the back of the plug and goes to the connector on the firewall.
Hope this helps
Coach Jack
Yes it does, so where do I connect the resister wire, do I cut it near the connector and splice it in there at the firewall? The plug coming out of the switch has the resistor wire (pink) and the red with yellow stripe wire together, , red/blue, is by itself, yellow wire,(thick) by itself, the black green wire(other thick wire) has also a grayish brown wire tied into it, and the purple wire stands alone. The empty space in the back of the ignition switch is next to the purple(violet) wire and in the new pig tale its a green wire with red stripe. in the schematics these two post are marked po, the others are marked a,s,b, and c. making a total of six termials on the back of the ignition switch. I see no orange yellow wire at all. mines a 68 with air.
Like I said , I just bought the car, someone took out the original motor and auto trans, and put in a mid 80ās 5.0 with a t-5 trans. I know nothing about this car, or what the guy did to it.
The best way to splice in a pink resistor wire is to butt-splice it. It can only be silver-soldered, not something the average hobbyist can do.
The extra wire in the ignition switch is likely a white/red wire, right? If so, it was used on various models for a proof-out circuit for the oil pressure. Mustangs and Cougars typically donāt use this wire. The repro ignition switch was designed for multiple Ford vehicles. You can either remove the wire or leave it alone.
Pauly,
The ignition connector for
A - Accessories
S - Starter circuit
B - Battery circuit
C - Coil circuit
PO - Prove Out (there are two PO connectors)
The grayish-brown wire circuit 904 from the connectorās A terminal goes to the voltage regulator
The purple (violet) wire circuit 977A from the connectorās PO terminal goes to the brake indicator warning lamp and the oil pressure idiot light. Note this is a ground connector not a power connector.
The other PO terminal is nt shown as being used on the Cougar
The orange-yellow wire is tied to a splice with the black-green wire. Trace your existing black green wire through the loom and you should see the splice where the orange-yellow wire is located.
Do not cut the pink resistance wire as shortening this wire changes its overall resistance value. If the wire is too short to make it to the firewall connector, then you can either splice into the existing wire or replace the wire and use a ballast resistor to drop the voltage and wire the other side of the ballast resistor to the firewall connector.
Coach Jack
977A purple wire is not a ground connector; it is in fact power to the master cylinder/prop valve sensor that gets grounded there if the prop valve is out of whack. Another purple wire carries the signal to the lamp, where it is compared to a 12V signal.
About the resistor wire. Do not forget that the ignition switch is not rated for much current, maybe 7 amps. If you take out the restor wire and run a low impedance coil you will burn up the switch. Remember that voltage divided by resistance equals current. The stock system has about 3 ohms of total resistance and pulls 4 amps of current. A .6 ohm coil will pull 20 amps of current. The ignition key will get hot to the touch and the switch contacts so hot they melt the plastic.
so Are you saying that if I run a 12v coil, it could burn up the ignition switch? Right now the car has the original coil, but electronic ignition. Can I upgrade to 12v coil, or am I better off staying with the old stock one. Thanks Pauly
Also coach jack, you recemended putting an inline fuse on the power supply to the ignition switch, what size amp fuse should I use. Thanks Pauly