also the resistor wire is shorter then the original but still long enough to go from plug to connector. Does this matter? Thanks Pauly
Pauly what is critical is the impedance not the voltage. A 12 volt coil is fine as long as the impedance is high enough to limit the current through the switch.
I donāt know if you read earlier in a post, I mentioned that this 68 cougar had the original 302 and auto trans swapped out for a 1985 mustang 302 with a 5 speed manual trans. It has the 85 alternator, distributor and MSD ignition module # 6420 . The original voltage regulator is not even hooked up. The coil is powered by the MSD unit. The car was running and never noticed the ignition key getting hot. But the last time I drove it I parked it in my drive for a while, started it up to pull it in the garage and when I turned the key off, the engine stayed running. Naturally I looked at the ignition switch only to find the plug was melted and wires corroded, and a half ass repair job. Thats how this whole mess started,Thinking that this was the problem. Does this resistor wire still matter? Also did some research on the MSD unit and found out because it is wired directly to the battery, that in older fords and gmās the unit can be back fed power through the volt indicator light circut causing the engine to run on in the off position. I guess the MSD kit came with a diode that was to be installed in-line of the light to prevent this. I guess they didnāt. It also says you can use a chrysler dual ballast resistor instead on the power wire to solve the problem (shown in the install instructions). I really donāt mean to be a pain, Iām a carpenter by trade, so when it comes to electrical Iām dumb founded. With all this info now disclosed. Any suggestions on anything I need to do? Thanks Pauly
I forgot to mention that it still has the 68 coil in it as well, as far as I can tell.looks really old, Pauly
The resistor wire is a neat little trick. However, when current runs through it, the resistance increases due to heat, choking the current. It is a self-limiting device for current flow. When you first start the car up, the resistance is only 1.5 ohms, but probably increases to something like 6 to 7 ohms when it gets hot and its resistance increases.
Midlife,
I am in agreement with you that the 977 circuit at the master cylinder/prop valve gets grounded (sink) when the prop valve pressure is out of balance. However the Prove Out circuit at the ignition switch is also a sink (ground) and not a source (provides power). In fact the power for the Brake indicator light and the oil pressure indicator ight gets its power from the C post of the ignition switch on circuit 640.
The only circuit that I am aware of that compares a 12V signal to turn on/off a light is the alternator light.
Coach Jack
Going on day 3 of trying to get the turn signals to work on my 1967 cougar - ugh! I thought the turn signal switch was bad so I replaced the switch but the turn signals are still not working. I read through Coach Jackās guide (Great information!) and determined I do not have power at the orange-yellow wire on the turn signal plug by the steering column when the key is on and the HZWSW is off. There is power on each side of the inline 15a fuse. I could not locate a cause or fix in the guide for no power to the orange-yellow wire. Thanks!
The inline 15A fuse holder is the orange and black wire that goes directly to the turn signal switch. Since you have power on both sides of the fuse yet no power at the turn signal plug, the wire must have an internal break. Disconnect the battery, open up the inline fuse holder, place an ohmmeter on the fuse and the other ohm meter probe on the orange-yellow wire at the connector. If it reads infinite, then you have verified that this is your problem.
Coach Jack
The 15A inline fuse does not go directly to the turn signal switch harness connector. I traced the wires and the inline fuse is powered by the ignition switch and the other wire (of the inline fuse) goes to what appears to be a relay - see photo. The grey-red wire is from the inline fuse. There is power on all wires to the relay (grey-red, green and purple) when the key is on.
I Googled and this is is a seat belt warning relay. I do not see another inline fuse?
I found the second inline fuse for the turn signals! It was still taped to the turn signal harness and real hard to find because of the tape and location. The fuse was blown. Simple fix and all works perfect now. Nothing sweeter than working sequential turn signals! Thanks for your help Coach Jack.
Again, thanks Coach, I got them to sequence. Although this time, The inner will come on sometimes. When they do, they will come on along with the middle one.
We just got a fresh batch in! These relays correct the issue of the green indicator arrows not working properly on the dash. This is the #1 problem of all time for the 67-8 turn signals.
Thought Iād post here too. Sorry for the repeat.
I just purchased the new LED tail lights from WCCC and they are awesomeā¦except one thing (for my car that is). So, when my head lights are OFF the LEDās are perfect. The brake lights work, the sequential turn signals work, and they both work together at the same time. However, when my head lights are ON the sequential turn signals donāt work. Only the inner most light blinks, and the middle and outer light do nothing. What is going on? Anyone else experience this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like your headlights are drawing most of the power. Think you have a ground issue?
Panellax4, what year is your cat? 67/68 should be a plug and play, 69-73 will require various additions to the system. If yours is a 67/68 check all your grounds, if you have a new solid state sequential components try replacing it with the orig (if you have them) also check your Plasma bulbs for the marking WCCC 1157R, if they work with the old system and do not have the marking let us know (@WCCC), if they have the marking and work with the old k8/k9 relay you may have a problem with the solid state unit. We get lots of calls and usually it is a ground issue. let us know how it goes.
When I first purchased my 69 XR7 a year ago, the turn signals worked intermittently. Over the last 6 months, they have stopped all together. I made the necessary repairs, buying the appropriate parts and carefully installing them correctly. To date, I have purchased many repro and new pieces from WCCC and replaced and installed the following in order:
New 1157 Bulbs
Taillight Sequential Unit - Solid State for Standard Bulbs
Electronic Sequential - Flasher Unit for Standard Bulbs
New repro Turn Signal Wiring Plug
New repro turn signal switch - Tilt / Tilt Away Column
With the car running or turned off, the emergency flasher does work fine and, as you can see from the linked video, the brakes work and, when depressing the brakes (or not) while using the turn signal, it illuminates the side I am turning to: https://youtu.be/2UAgHgvOc_4
No signal on the dash lights, no clickā¦nothing else.
What, if anything, may be the next step in terms of diagnosis and/or replacement. I think I am at the end of my rope but I am hoping someone here may be able to save me on this last step to get this right. I feel like I am really close.
UPDATE: Vic asked me to put back the original red flasher can and take out the electronic sequential flasher unit. Everything is working perfectly now. Looks like I received a faulty unit. Just glad to be back on the road!
I have a 69 base model convertible. I did the same thing as Panellax4 and purchased the LED sequential turn signal unit and corresponding electronic flasher from WCCC and installed regular LEDs for the taillights. I have the same problem. When my head lights are OFF the LEDs work perfectly. The brake lights work, the sequential turn signals work, and they both work together at the same time. When I turn on the parking lights or headlights, the sequential turn signals donāt work and only the inner most light blinks and works as a brake light. The middle and outer lights do nothing. The old 1157 bulbs with the correct electronic flasher worked perfectly for all conditions. Suggestions?
69 cougar
Emergency flasher on everything works great
Key in on position Right side works correctly, left side all three flash together
When engine is running, right side starts out sequential then turns all three flashing, left side all three flash
No brake lights at all
Please help