Tom -
If the pedal isn’t going almost to the floor with a extremely hard pedal to stop the car, I don’t think it is bad.
There must be a tolerance stack up problem that is keeping the end of the rod from pushing the switch.
Check out this diagram on how the rod actuates the switch.
Thanks Vic. I ordered one through WCCC, as well as a few other things, and should have it by Friday, if all goes well.
I guess I may need to order another of these to be used for the emergency flasher can as well. Or do you recommend an alternative?
Scott -
During the original Ford sequencer production, the board design changed so that the emergency flashers were changed from “all flash together” to sequential operation. If your emergency flashers sequence, you will need a D0WY-13350-AR flasher, if not, a standard flasher will work.
Vic, Heather’s 69 flashes all when the emergency flasher button is pushed. I will test the new one when I get it and may be buying another for that system too.
Thanks to you and Coach Jack for all your help on our signal system problems.
Just installed WCCC red plasma lights in my rear turn signals. The turn signals work fine n the outside of the car, but now the turn signal indicator on my dash flashes only once and then stays solid. Planning on getting the K7 Indicator Relay C7WY-13A366-CR from ebay (paulson_kim) Does this seem like the right fix?
Thanks.
Joe
That should do it. Also available from WCCC.
My 67 outer tail lights stopped working. From my research it looks like it might only be the turn signal relay. Was going to replace it but I cant find it under dash or behind instrument cluster. Dont see it in my shop manual either. Where is it located? Also does that sound like the issue/solution to anyone else?
The little metal turn signal canister, anyone know where its located on a ‘67 Cougar?
It’s under the dash on the driver side. It might be mounted very close to the fuse box, or in the general area. A heads-up what you are looking for is not a traditional flasher can. It’s about a half inch wide and about an inch or so long with a plug attached.
WCCC probably has a picture on their website, along with a free download of the electrical schematics.
Hi all!
So Logan (my 14 year old son) and I decided to take a cursory look at the sequential tail lights.
Currently, they just blink like normal lights.
This is what we found.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knJOM5tZmKY
I gotta say. We both thought it was So cool that this was done mechanically.
Any ideas on where to start?
THANK YOU for the insight. Wow, no wonder I couldn’t find it, it was in front of my face! LOL Thanks! Now how to determine to see if that is the issue.
There’s a great troubleshooting section on the Cougars Unlimited website that can really walk you through the various issues.
I highly recommend reading it.
Good luck.
Mike,
You can download my pdf file from this link https://classiccougarcommunity.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/1967_Cougar_Sequential_Turn_Signal_System_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf
BTW, your problem sounds more likely that the sequencer or the k10 relay and or associated wiring is your issue. The pdf file tells you how to test the components individually.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Coach Jack
We replaced the light bulbs.
Blinkers, brakes, and tail light function all work.
As you can see from the video… sequential motor works.
So. Wiring?
A couple of clues indicate that this system may have been modified:
- Red glue around the motor of the sequential flasher.
- An extra brown wire leading from inside the sequential flasher.
I suspect that the wiring has been modified to cause all the lights to flash together
because one or more contacts in the sequential flasher and/or directional relay are bad.
Start by removing any wiring modifications and then follow the troubleshooting guide
on my website to identify and replace any faulty components.
What would cause my turn signal switch to smoke? I know a short somewhere but any specifics? The switch is probably over 15 years old, original replacement, and nothing has been touched in the wiring for a long time. This just happened out of the blue. Ignition not on, noticed when I got in the car to put it back in the garage. I brushed the brake pedal with my foot getting in the car.
I disconnected the battery as quickly as I could.
This is a very common problem with the turn signal switches on the 1969-73 Cougars.
Most likely, the plastic around the green wire rivet on the top of the switch cam has melted due to the six-lamp current surge from applying the brakes. The resistance between the rivet and the “W” wire under the switch cam increases due to oxidation and a poor materials choice used on a certain aftermarket switch. This increased resistance causes the rivet temperature to rise dramatically above the melting point of the nylon plastic and poof, the magical smoke is released.
For the 1970-72 Cougars, a new switch has been released. Make sure you get one with copper rivets (instead of steel) and heavy duty wires.
These material changes help dissipate the heat and keep the switch from melting.
Hey Vic, thanks for the info.
Guessing I can disconnect the TS switch so I can move the car into the garage.
Are the available 69 switches any good?
The American-made 1969 switches with brass rivets are OK but will fail eventually. There are two fundamental flaws with the original design:
- insufficient contact area between the rivet head and the internal “W” contact wire
- low melting temperature of the nylon material.
Note: Once the switch has failed in this manner, you do not have any brake lights.
The best solution is to convert to the “Plasma” LED bulbs which only draw .3A (vs 2.1A) each and do not draw the 10X surge current of 1157 incandescent bulbs.
Just in case you were wondering which LED lights were compatible with a Cougar, here is a link!
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=C9W%20plasma