Thank you i found it to be the connection at the column, i bypassed the one wire, hope fully some sells the pins, so can re pin it.
I keep the pins for both sides of the connector in stock.
I also now have both sides of the connector shells in stock.
I have a 1968 base cougar with new turn signal switch, bulbs and a solid state sequencer. Right signals and all 4 hazards work perfect. Left turn signal creates a buzzing sound from the sequencer box and one of the the right rear signal lights flash as well. Front left flashes fine. Any ideas?
The buzzing sound from the sequencer box is typically due to low voltage in the trunk (less than 10V).
This can happen due to weak battery, a wiring problem (short to ground), or socket that is shorting out.
First verify that the turn signal switch pins are in their correct locations. It is possible to mix-up the blue turn signal power with the blue horn wire with certain Taiwan-made switches. The 14ga blue wire goes to the horn. The smaller 18ga blue wire is the turn signal power.
Remove all the bulbs on the left side to see if the buzzing goes away.
Then replace the bulbs one at a time to identify the problem circuit.
For the right rear signal lights flashing also (usually just the first cycle), check the K5 indicator relay under the dash.
If the black ground from the relay to the wiper motor is disconnected or missing, this issue can occur.
Also, verify that the center pin on the relay (with the 3-pin black connector disconnected) is connected to the relay case.
The single light (furthest left) on the right signal flashes with the left signals the whole time. I have currently checked most of what you listed and notice when the left signal is depressed half way as if passing I can hear the box click but the signal doesnāt start. When fully engaged the buzzing starts in the box with the left signal.
Just wanted to mention the turn signal switch is new USA made and itās a factory tilt column.
It still sounds like there is a short to ground on the left rear harness/and or sockets.
Check these signals in the trunk with a volt meter (preferably analog):
Right turn: violet - 12V
orange/green - 12V
Left turn: white - 12V
orange/green - 12V
I suspect that you will see both left signals drop down below 10V during left turn signal operation.
Iāve seen the ālane-changeā problem in some turn signal switches. The alignment of the bars/contacts on the turn signal cam is not quite correct.
This can cause the bar to connect the blue to the (white for left or violet for right) control signal to turn on before or after the power contact (orange/green). This will delay the '67-68 turn signal until the switch is fully depressed.
Note: At the switch the right power is orange/blue, left power is green/orange - these are combined together in the Cougar harness on the orange/black and then fed to the trunk on the orange/green.
UPDATE*
Got it fixed. After careful inspection of my column harness it turns out a previous owner swapped the white/blue-violet with the free space on the vehicle side of the harness. Swapped a few wires around and it works as it should.
New problem that I havenāt seen posted yet for a 1969 Cougar. Only the Hazards arenāt working. The brake lights and blinkers work around the entire car. Iāve checked the fuses and sequential flasher unit (car has been upgraded to the plasma bulbs). Iām thinking the problem might be the āTurn Signal Switch Unitā in the steering column. But, Iām not sure how to test that item. Anyone have any ideas? Thank you.
-Mark
Howdy all! Iām having an issue with the sequential turn signals on a 1969 Cougar and am looking for some help. Here is the issue and what has been checked/replaced.
All of the lights work (brake, tail lights, turn signal and hazard), but the lights on the right side flash together (do not sequence). The left side works fine.
Brake switch is good.
Turn signal switch is new and verified good on all nodes.
Input to the sequencer is present and output appears good.
Hazard and turn signal flashers are new, WCCC components meant for LED lights.
The sequencer is a WCCC unit meant for LED lights.
I have swapped LEDās side to side to see if I had a problem bulb. No change.
I have checked and re-grounded the tail light harness to the bulbs. No change.
I re-installed the original sequencer and 1157 bulbs and this did not correct the issue.
Is there an issue with the wiring from the sequencer to the right side lights? How would I determine this? It all tests good (ground and power) and each wire is not touching the chassis (ohmed out to see if there was some compromised insulation).
Suggestion?
So, update. Iāve changed the Turn Signal Switch, no change. Iāve changed out the brake switch, no change. If I activate the emergency flasher, nothing happens. If I step on the brake, while the switch is engaged, the āflasher Lightsā will come on (SOLID, no flashing) as long as my foot is pressing the brake pedal. The āFlasher Cansā have been switched (blinker can vs emergency can) with same result. Very odd. If anyone has an idea, it would be greatly appreciated. I should mention that they worked last year when I put the car to bed. And the blinkers work fine.
Thank you.
Mark
When the brake is depressed and the emergency button pushed in, the brake light power will feed backwards through the emergency switch to the front lights. This verifies that the brake/emergency power circuit breaker is working.
It is possible that one of the emergency flasher connector pins got pushed out the backside of the connector and is not making contact with the flasher pin. Also, verify that the red/white wire has 12V. If not, there may be a break in the wire from the circuit breaker or oxidation on the pin.
Try jumping the pins on the emergency flasher connector to see if 12V power gets to the white/red wire on the turn signal switch. Verify that the white/red wire connector pin on the car side of the turn signal switch is not pushed out the backside of the connector. Also, verify that the white/red wire connector pin is not oxidized or blackened (fried).
Note: It turns out that about 50% of the Ford emergency flasher sockets are wired backwards because of the color scheme used (red/white and white/red). This isnāt a problem for thermal flashers because they are non-polarized.
However, electronic flashers are polarized and will only work one way.
There are two solutions:
- swap the red/white with the white/red. Use a tiny screwdriver to release the tang on the connector pin and pull it out the back side.
or - make up a pair of jumpers using a 1/4" quick disconnect male pin connected to a female 1/4" quick disconnect female pin with 2" of 16 ga wire.
Route the jumpers so they swap the pins to the flasher.
Awesome experience relayed hereā¦ Thank you for continuing to add to this thread. Hopefully it will be around long after you and I are not.
Vic,
Thank you very much for the information and sharing. I really appreciate it!
Iām not sure my wiring matches up. I have the āWhite wire/ Red Stripā wire. But I donāt have a āRed Wire / White Stripeā wire. Iām not the original owner, so maybe it was replaced previously? So, here is what Iāve done:
- Verified all āPinsā were good and making contact.
- Test the wires to see which have power:
- The āSolid Yellowā wire has 12v power all the time.
- When the emergency Flasher is activated the power is:
- āSolid Yellowā still has power, as expected.
- No other wire has power, except:
- Press the brake pedal, the āWhite Wire / Red Stripeā wire then has power that pulses from 8v to 12v.
I have a second (brand new) switch (behind the steering wheel) and I also hooked that one up with the exact same results as above.
I wonder if both brand new switches(behind steering wheel) are bad? Power is running up to the switch, but nothing coming back down, unless I press the brakes?
Thank you again.
Mark
I have a 1968 Base model Cougar. Will a complete taillight harness from a 1967 work without any modifications? The harness also includes the sequential assembly. Thanks
Great thread, sadly I keep losing place searching to see if my issue is already here.
70 base with sequential. It seems my middle bulb on passenger side wants to do things differently.
If headlights are off all directional bulbs Functions perfect, but middle one will go completely out when brake is depressed.
With headlights on all bulbs work. But when directional is turned on middle bulb will not flash. With brake depressed it looks no brighter.
I have swapped out old with new bulbs with no change. Is this a wiring issue?
If it is a late unit I believe so. You can just reach under the dash and plug it in without feeding it through the car to see if the sequential works. If it were me I would trade it in at WCCC for the correct parts.
Having the same problem. I tested the column switch by connecting a wire between the relay plug holes, the lights turned on (obviously donāt flash). I put in the old relay, they turn on and obviously donāt flash because LEDs donāt they donāt draw enough power. I used some wires and 12volt test LEDs and wired the new relay right to the battery, it flashed as expected. When I put the relay on the battery without the ground, the lights turn on but donāt flash, so current will go through the relay. Next I placed the relay in the plug again and it didnāt flash or simply turn on, which is different than what happened at the battery. My next test is to run a wire directly from the battery to the ground wire on the relay to check for a crappy ground, however, the ground I used for my turn signal is also not working as the ground for my flasher. Seems suspicious.
Update: turns out the plug wires for the flasher relay have the hot side on the wrong side. Not a problem for the original relays, but definitely a problem for the digital relay. Swapped those around and all good.
Yes, the late '67 and '68 driverās side tail light harness will interchange - they have the same plugs for the 14401 under-dash harness and the passengerās side 14405 tail light harness.
However, my electronic sequential turn signal controllers do not necessarily interchange because of the special circuitry added to the '68 controller in order to avoid the feedback that occurs through the '68 indicator relay. A '68 controller will work correctly in a '67 (with the 68 harness) but a '67 controller will not work right in a '68. If the harness has already been swapped, a revision service is available to make a late '67 sequential controller work a '68.
But it is best take Donās advice and get the correct harness.
The right rear bulbs appear to be operating in brake light mode.
The right front signal (white/blue) is used as an input to the sequencer to tell the right side go into sequential mode.
Verify that this flashing signal is present on the white/blue wire in the trunk on the sequencer red connector.
If this signal is not present, trace the wire (449) in the harness over the wheel well, under the quarter window, and underneath the sill plate to the plugs near the kick panel, where it āTāsā into the main harness. From there it goes to the turn signal switch and the right front lamp through the bulkhead connector. Verify that this wire is intact. Look for an open due to corroded or unplugged connectors and damaged wires.