hello coach well i checked the circuits 5 and 9 out the switch in car has no ohms with the harness disconnected i connect the harness and check the ohms in the female end of red connector and i have 2.9 ohms on both 442 and 445 to 511. I plug in red connector and i loose my ohms. Is there a way to eliminate 5 and 9 in switch and take b12 from green wire in trunk and feed 5 and 9 from there. I have bought in the last 2 months 2 new switches and a sequential unit and the switches are burning out i guess. I am confused on what to do i cant keep buying switches all the time and i cant even enjoy my car i rebuilt because the tail lights dont work do you know if the company who builds these switches are they aware of the loose rivet connections in there switches and are they trying to rectify this problem. I am wondering if there is a way to wire my tail lights to eliminate this problem it is driving me crazy. thanks in advance.
Hey Coach!
This is Todd, you had helped me a couple weeks back when I had no continuity on my left turn signal in the new switch I had bought. The replacement arrived, I checked the continuity BEFORE I put it in and it was correct. But now ā¦!
Only the inner most bulbs light at all, they only flash with the hazzards ons. Left signal lever, solid inner most light on left (and front also). Right signal lever, solid inner most light on right (and in front). Sigh. And then curse.
I did notice that the plastic harness clips under the dash do not meet flush, there is a small gap between the turn signal switch side and the other. The little plastic clips on the sides that lock it into place are engaged but I just want to make sure that my problem is this particular brand of boneheadedness.
Otherwise, what do I look at next?
Todd
442 - Power provided from turn signal switch for left turn/hazards
Power is split at the Red A9 connector one going to the left inboard taillight and the other goes to the Solid State Sequencer. This circuit in the SEQ provides the switching to enable the left center and outer turn signal lights circuits 443 and 444 respectively.
448 - Power provided from turn signal switch for left turn/hazards. This circuit provides power to the sequential box timing circuit for powering and sequencing the left center and left outer turn signals.
If you put the switch in left mode and the left inner light comes on but the left center and outers do not work, verify power on the 448 circuit. Also make sure the ground wire #57 of the sequencer is properly grounded to a clean contact.
The same for the right side as circuits 445 and 449 are the right sides equivalent to the lefts 442 and 448.
Good luck. Let me know if you need any additional help.
Coach Jack
Hi all I am new to this forum, but have had cougars for years. all my good luck with the sequential tail lights has final run out. I have read the document by Coach Jack and bench tested all my relays and finally bit the bullet to purchase the āTurn Signal Sequential Unit - Solid State - LATE - After 1/2/67ā from WCC for my 67 cougar. Just received the unit which replaced the SQM, K8/K9 and K10 relays. I am still having a problem with my system.
With emergency flasher on:
Front lights, dash lights, rear center lights all flash (seems to be working properly)
when brake applied, all rear lights on, center lights flashing on l/r sides
Brake depresssed:
All 6 rear lights come on (seems to be working properly)
(with key on and turn signal Left)-All 6 rear lights on only Left center flashes, inner/outer lights stay on but dont flash
(with key on and turn signal Right)-All 6 rear lights on only Right center flashes, inner/outer lights stay on but dont flash
Headlights/driving lights on:
All headlights/all 6 tailights on (seems to be working properly)
With key on (full battery, good bulbs)Front lights flash appropriately for left and right turn
For left turn, left dash light on (not flashing) and right turn, right dash light on (not flashing),
For left turn, left rear center light flashes (inside/outside lights do not come on) and right turn, right rear center light flashes (inside/outside lights do not come on).
I am pulling out my hair trying to determine where my next step should be. Any additional troubleshooting guidance would be greatly appreciated!!
Just found my problem, wiring connection going into K10 relay was bad, replaced fitting all is good. I hope this helps someone other than me. Thanks
hello coach jack this is ray with 69 cougar i send you a text with what i found on nov 09 and havenāt heard back from you if you didnt get it let me know and i will resend it thanks Ray
Ray,
It seems that the turn signal switch is causing the majority of your issues. The 442 and 445 circuit branch at the connector one side going to the sequencer and the other going to their respective inner bulbs (442 - L / 445 - R ). Also make sure that the sequential box is properly grounded (the black wire on the black plug coming out of the sequencer.)
Coach Jack
Thanks coach I know I need a new switch for the third time I am scared to buy another one at 100.00 bucks a shoot do u know if the company who makes these switches are aware of how all the contacls are loose and keep burning them out. Is there a way to to eliminate the switch or is there another company that sells these turn signal switches thanks
Ray,
I have gone through two TS switches in my '69 tilt column as well. It is the steel paper clip type wire that gets out of position and doesnāt make contact. You can disassemble the switch and bend that wire to the correct position so that it makes proper contact consistently. You also might have to āstakeā down the rivet contact that holds that wire in the center so that it holds it tightly. It will take some trial and error to get it to make contact as it should. A little at a time and easy does it.
I watched an episode of Autorestomod on YouTube showing how to fix it on a '67 Mustang tilt column. Wish I had seen it before I ended up on my 3rd switch.
Thanks for the info Darrell I will try and find that on you tube but you would think the company would make them work the way they should
Hey Coach!
I would have posted a couple hours ago but I was out driving my car 'cuz the damn turn signals finally work !!!
The cuprit was the ground in the trunk, when the previous owner had the car repainted they attached the ground to a painted surface near the gas filler tube. I am a bit slow on the uptake of things so it didnāt oocur to me that was the problem until I was checking the circuits on the red A9 (442, 448, etc) and after getting a reading touching my negative probe to another spot in the trunk I touched it to the screw on the ground and got nothing. I removed the screw, filed the paint off that spot and as soon at I started to screw it back in I heard the flasher can clicking. Oh, the BLISS!!
Thank you for being meticulous about the troubleshooting process, it really helped to hone in on each of these problems and I feel like I understand things a lot better.
So in the final analysis of the saga: the original switch was just old and bad, the first replacement did not have continuity for the left side to work right and the second replacement was good but I was not grounded in the trunk.
Again, many humble thanks for your patience and insight.
Good to hear everything is working!
Enjoy the ride!!!
Coach Jack
Hello coach jack do you know if Scott drake is aware of the loose contactās and the poor guality of there signal switches I am afraid to buy another one even though I need my third one already. Is there any other company that makes these switches thanks
Sheemar makes a better switch than Drake or Carpenter but even those have problems at times. Here is a link to a 69 switch with no tilt.
Thanks coach
Iāve recently started having problems with my left turn signal. Iāve just noticed it when installing new LEDs in the rear but suspect it may have been happening for some time. Itās a 1968 standard cougar no tilt-wheel. Everything seems to work except the following: A) The interior dash blinker lights do not flash but just light up and stay lit and thereās no clicking noise when blinkers are on. B) On the left blinker, it will start blinking and continue for 30-40 seconds and go out. After that, I canāt get the driver side blinkers to come on. Front and back both go out at the same time. Itās as if leaving them on for an extended period of time overheats something and they no longer work.
The passenger side is not exhibiting this behavior and the drivers side only seems to have this problem if the blinkers are left on for an extended period (greater than 30 sec) amount of time. Does this sound like a switch problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Do you havethe new solid state sequencer or original mechanical in the trunk?
Great question. I have the solid state sequencer. Does that control both the front and rear turn signals? Both the driverās side front and rear stop blinking after ~30seconds continuous use.
Iāve also noticed that when the engine is off, the drivers side front or rear blinkers donāt work. The hazards donāt work on the drivers side either with the engine off. The passenger side works fine with or without the engine on. Does that help narrow where the problem might be?
Hi my names Brett im new to the forums.
I own a 68 Cougar and just recently purchased the 1157 L.E.D. Bulbs for my tail lights.
Im having an issue getting the running lights to work. Brake , Turn and hazards work just fine but I have no running lights while these bulbs are installed.
If I reinstall the old incandescent bulbs everything works just fine but I cannot get these L.E.D. bulbs to function properly.
What I have found out so far is that my grounds are good and clean. I have power to the Bulb Sockets both running, Brake, Turn and Hazard.
Sockets are making contact but to be sure I located some universal ones that I made work to trouble shoot the sockets in case I wasnt getting a good
enough contact inside.
The Kicker is that with JUST the Main wire that powers the running light connected I have running lights, but once I connect the other lead for the Brakes and turn
the Running light shuts off and will not come back on til I disconnect the Brake lead.
A bit confused by this so any help is appreciated
Thank You
Brett