This is due to the fact that the LEDs draw a lot less current than the incandescent bulbs. The current affects the K7 relay under the dash that causes the dash lights to blink. you need to replace your K7 with a solid state version. The easiest way for you to test if your problem is the sequencer or the K7 relay, replace the LEDs with the stock 1157 incandescent bulbs.
Yes, the sequencer controls both the front and rear as well as left and right turn signals.
Since your right side works and you experience problems only with the left, check to see if you are getting power to the left side after 30 seconds. If there is power on the left input but no flashing, then the problem lies within the sequencer. If there is no power after 30 seconds, then the problem is within your switch.
OK so I made a mistake in my install of these lights. Apparently if you leave one incandescent bulb installed the running lights will not work for the LEDās(Only the LEDās).
I didnt notice I had a LED left over after I installed them and thought that something was wrong.
Soo now with ALL the LEDās installed everything is working as it should.
Sorry to anyone who is researching this issue. Obviously the issue was me
LEDās are VERY bright, possibly too bright? Nahh!!!
I have seen a couple people squint when I applied the brake lights.
Im very happy with them so far.
Iāve noticed the electronic turn signal box I installed over 2 years ago is making a slight buzzing sound with the flasher on. It buzzes every time they flash. When the left signal stops flashing it stops the buzzing. Is it normal for the electronic box to make this noise?
The box makes a signal click noise when the turn signals are first turned on. Is it normal for it to click when the turn signals are first turned on? It does this on both sides.
The right side never fails just the left. It always fails after about 20-30 seconds of continued flashing. After that it wonāt come back on until we turn if off and wait several minutes and then it will work again but only for 20-30 seconds. I know thereās a more scientific way to figure out if the electronic box is the cause of the problem but I donāt have any electrical expertise. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. THANKS!!!
Your sequential unit should not buzz. The system will buzz if:
the system voltage falls below about 10V in the trunk. Did you test this with the car running
and the battery fully charged?
there is a bad turn signal switch that is dropping voltage to the trunk. This can happen
to one side of the switch (dirty or worn contacts, burnt switch connector pin/socket).
there is a heavy load (i.e. short or incorrect bulb) that is dropping the voltage to the trunk.
The sequential unit will click the first time activating either side.
Thanks for your quick reply! Yes the car battery was fully charged and car running. The front bulbs are brand new (I wanted to eliminate that) and the rear bulbs are new LEDs from WCCC. The buzzing only seems to happen when the hazards are on and once one I moved the unit it stopped and corrected itself (stopped buzzing and continued flashing). I tried this again (moving it) and it didnāt correct itself. This 20-30seconds before failure happens with both the hazards and left turn signal. Would both switches need to be bad? I really wish I knew more about electronics (voltage, shorts, etc.) but Iāve never had anyone to teach me. I try to only attempt things that are plug-n-play. The problem exists with standard or LED bulbs in the rear.
I tried to PM you but my replies keep getting stuck in my outbox. Thanks for checking my box. Before removing, I tried running the LH blinker for over 5min and it worked great. This was on a full battery charge with the key in the accessory position. I thought about not sending it back, but then I started the car, tried the LH blinker and it worked fine for 11 complete sequential blinks and stopped. Iām not sure what that means if anything.
I have a '72 that I just changed over to the solid state sequencer and flasherā¦my problem is that the driverās side works fineā¦but the passenger side does notā¦all passenger side lights are on along with both reverse lights and the bulb sockets are energized when signal is on and the innermost bulb has bothe elements that light upā¦one brighter than the otherā¦bad ground on that side ?
Hereās a minor issue that bugs me and Iād like to fix it since Iāve got the dash out now and if itās something in the cluster, Iād like to address it while I have access:
69 XR7
Replaced turn signal switch, turn signal flasher (electronic), and hazard light flasher
Car has original solid state sequencer in trunk
Headlights, parking lights, brake lights, turn signals front & rear all work correctly
Right turn signal indicator on dash works correctly
Left turn signal indicator on dash blinks more dimly than the right. Also, if I hold the turn signal lever down for the left signals but donāt click it into place (as in when just doing a lane change), the the dash indicator does not blink (but the flasher makes the tick, tick sound and the front and rear turn signals behave as they should). If I push the turn signal lever all the way so that it clicks into place for a left turn, the left signal dash indicator blinks, but dimly.
My 68 Cougar has a continuing issue where the dashboard turn signal lights stay on, (no flash) when the turn signal switch is used. What may or may not be related, my front turn signal/running lights will come on when I pull one click for running lamps but when I pull it out for headlights they turn offā¦ Exterior turn signals, front and rear, work in all situations. All trunk, headlight, turn signal components including the K7 and underdash wiring have been replaced with updated items and still the situation persists. The only original components are from the engine bay forward to the lights themselves.
What part number is the K7 relay that you currently have on the vehicle? For your 68, the K7 relay should provide ground for the turn signal indicators. It sounds to me that you have a 67 K7 relay which provides power for the turn signal indicator circuits.
Hello, I have a '71 XR7 and I am having a similar problem. I have replaced the sequential turn signal box and the turn signal switch. The turn signals, night lights, and flashers work. However, the brake lights do not. I am reviewing the spectacular sequential turn signal trouble shooting .pdf written by Coach Jack. Excellent information! I am also going to check the circuit breaker that feeds the brake light circuit.
Hello, I have a '71 XR7 and I am having a similar problem. I have replaced the sequential turn signal box and the turn signal switch. The turn signals, night lights, and hazards work. However, the brake lights do not. I am reviewing the spectacular sequential turn signal trouble shooting .pdf written by Coach Jack. Excellent information! I am also going to check the circuit breaker that feeds the brake light circuit.
For the brake lights to work, you must have power on three wires at the sequential flasher connectors in the trunk:
Green-Orange (LH Inner light)
Orange-Blue (RH Inner light)
Green (Brake signal from brake light switch under the dash)
If there is no power on the Green wire, check the brake light switch under the dash attached to the brake pedal.
If there is no power on the Green-Orange or Orange-Blue wire, check the turn signal switch connector under the dash. Make sure all the pins are seated into the connector shells and the both connector are fully seated together. If the connector is ok, the turn signal switch is probably bad.
I have replaced 3 signal switches all brand new and all failed after little use i got a old original switch from a cougar friend lyndon and i have had no problems so far touch wood the new switches are made poorly and dont last so if you can find a old one put it in.
Hey folks, please forgive, Iām sure this has been discussed several times, but I canāt seem to find what Iām looking for. The car is a 68. Obviously my original sequencing motor went out as the previous owner had some kind of a hack job going to make the turn signals work. Only 1 light would blink in the back. He had wires going everywhere in the trunk. He also cut the blue wire and the white with red stripe wire coming out of the steering column and spliced a flasher on each wire. I bought the new solid state box from Don. I eliminated all the āextraā wiring in the trunk and plugged in the new box. I also eliminated the flashers at the steering column and put the original wires back together. I have no blinkers now. I have brake lights. The dash indicators stay lit up when I turn the blinkers on or the emergency flashers on. I have to believe the turn signal switch in the column is good as the blinkers were working before I eliminated all the āextraā wiring. I also checked the inline fuse. Please point me in a direction to get started. Do I start testing relays now? Thanks!
