i would go into wccc site and downlod trouble shooting guide and test your signal switch is my guess
OK, I guess Iām an idiot. I canāt seem to find that trouble shooting guide. Could you please post a link? Thanks!
I am not sure how to do it but if you go into the site where you can buy the switch you will find it there hopes this helps or maybe someone else can direct you in the right direction
Post #3 of this thread has the guides:
First if your signals were working before putting in the digital replacements, put back the old one and see if your problem persists.
See my pdf file for troubleshooting and wiring.
https://classiccougarcommunity.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/1967_Cougar_Sequential_Turn_Signal_System_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf
Note even though my writeup focuses on the 67 sequentials, the 68 is similar except for the dash turn signal indicators (67ās use a K5 and K6 relay whereas the 68 is wired without these relays and the front signals are wired differently as well. Note the K10 relay between the 67 and the 68 are different!)
Good Luck
Coach Jack
Thanks for the help guys! I tinkered with it last night and itās lookin like a bad turn signal switch as I have no power coming from the switch for the left signal. Thanks Coach for the write up it was a big help. I ordered up new one from Don this morning, so we will see. Wow! I definitely see how these things could drive a guy insane!!! Thanks again!
I fat fingered my response yesterday, originally I said āNote the K10 relay between the 67 and the 68 are different!ā, It should read K7 not K10.
Coach Jack
Hi All, hoping you can help me on this one.
Does anyone know of a kit, etc to convert my 67 Shelby GT 350 to sequential tail lights? It is a real Shelby and it has the 67 Cougar tai lights - except they are either on or off and do not sequence like a Cougar.
I am also thinking of upgrading to the Plasma LED bulbs because my lights are just āokā and having the brighter Plasma bulbs would be an improvement.
Before I install any kit to sequence them, I will just do the Plasma LED upgrade. When I do this upgrade, will I need to replace/upgrade the factor flasher unit? I am not sure if the LED Plasma bulbs will draw enough current to heat the flasher element allowing the circuit to āopenā.
I looked at the rated current draw of a standard 1157 bulb here:
ā¦as you can see they have two ratings due to the 2 filaments - when running lights only @ 14.0 volts it is rated at 590 milliamps of draw and when the brakes are applied @12.8V, the second filament comes on and the bulb then draws 2.10 amps.
Does anyone know (maybe Don Rush?) how many amps the Plasma LEDās (that are available through WCCās website) draw in running light mode and in brake light mode? This would be helpful to determine what I may need to do flasher wise. I am thinking I may need to either use a light duty flasher or add some resistance by installing some resistors in line with the Plasma bulbs (if the Plasma LEDās draw less current then the 1157 standard bulbs) or perhaps install one of the solid state flasher units? I am not at all familiar with the solid state flasher - so I do not know if it can help or not. I am unaware of the difference between it and the normal style flasher in my car currently.
If the Plasma LEDās draw more current then the bulbs, I would think everyone using them would have been blowing fuses by now.
As an aside, does anyone know either the lumen rating or candle power rating of the LED Plasma bulbs? In the link I provided above, it shows that an 1157 light bulb produces 3 candle power in the running light mode and 32 candlepower in the brake light mode. There is a conversion for Lumens to Candlepower here:
http://www.theledlight.com/lumens.html
It indicates the following:
Divide the number of lumens you have produced, or are capable of producing, by 12.57 and you get the candlepower equivalent of that light source.
It would be interesting to see how many candle power the LED Plasma bulbs produce to compare to the rated candle power output of the 1157 light bulbs.
Any help appreciated and thank you
Mark
Mark,
I donāt know if the 67 Shelby wire connectors are the same as the 68 but you could make the 68 Thundersticks work. Tony Branda sells these 68 Thundersticks
http://store.cobranda.com/19shtadysts.html
Make sure you read the instructions that includes a comprhensive wiring diagram.
http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-13525187779972/SF1instructions.pdf
Note however since you want to use LEDs, you will want to use an electronic flasher instead of a heavy duty flasher unit because as you note the LEDs draw such a lower amperage.
As far as the LED lights, let me preface that I do not run LEDs on my car. Why? Because I too have not been able to find enough information on the Plasma bulbs. Even in the instructions noted above, it states āLED bulbs require 4 additional 120 ohm 5 watt ballast resistorsā. But this actually defeates the purpose of running LEDs. The alternative is to have a PWM driving the LED at a specific duty cycle which I have never seen listed on the Plasma bulbs. This doesnāt mean that they donāt use a PWM, but if they did, you better believe that their Marketing department would have boasted this fact. Can you drive an LED directly without a PWM or a load resistor, sure you can, it just wonāt last and will eventually burn out.
Let me know if you need any additional information
Coach Jack
Hi Jack,
Yes, I wish each company that made the LED bulbs / LED Plasma Bulbs would publish the current ratings of each type such as the 1157 replacement. The issue is that every company in China is getting into the LED/LED Plasma bulbs and there are too many versions to count. For example when you want an 1157 LED/Plasma bulb, there are what I would call a wimpy version and there are super powerful versions and every where in between. I am sure that each has its own current draw depending on the number of actual LEDās that make up any specific 1157 design, the quality of the LEDS, what type (I reviewed CREEās website and there are so many types and versions it is endless), and on and on it goes. There are no more āstandardsā like what I referred to (in my prior post) based on one set number of current ratings an 1157 bulb has (running light mode vs brake light mode).
Wattage ratings of the LEDās / Plasmaās are all over the map as are lumen ratings. I tend to think that we are dealing with manufacturers that just make whatever they want and there is no more standards - they just āworkā so to speak, but how good do they work is the question. For all I know some of the super high power ones (I have seen some rated at 80W, 950 Lumens) may require a heavier duty fuse and maybe do not even need a load resistor to trip the normal/stock flasher? (yes we all have heard the LEDās draw less current and that seems to be the trend - but some of these LEDās are getting very bright and that to me means more current draw). Maybe the current draw on these is too large for the wiring in the car and can catch it on fire? (yes, I know the fuse should blow first however!) But that is the last thing I want to deal with even though I just upgraded my carās fire extinguisher to a new Halotron unit. What I am getting at is that without a standard rating, all these makers are rating their bulbs output with no real factual data. I want to know that what I am putting in is safe and not exceeding the rated current levels of the 1157. My understanding as I stated above is that (in general) the LEDās/Plasmaās use less power and therefore cannot trip the stock flasher. My understanding is that you either need to add load resistors to the LEDās (to draw more current) or use an electronic flasher that will fire the LEDās regardless of current draw.
Just wish the manufactures would publish the current draw at a given voltage. Its not rocket science to do this as all you need to do is put an ammeter in series with the 12v source when the car is off or 13.2v when the car is running.
Thanks,
Mark
On my 72 Cougar when the lights are on the headlights and parking lights blink. The rear tail lights will not work at all. If I unplug the lead in the trunk to the drivers side tail lights it stops and the the headlights and the tail lights work normally (except the unplugged drivers side tail lights). Also the lead (plug and wires) to the drivers side tail lights heats up when it is plugged in and the headlights and parking lights are turned on. This happens even if the flasher can by the fuse box is unplugged. The flasher equipment looks to be all original. Worked okay (not great) until a week ago. Ever hear of a similar problem and remedy. Hate to start replacing everything to find the problem.
Thanks Paul
Mark,
I agree with everything you said, but unfortunately since the standard bulb and the LED bulbs both use a D.C. Index base ( so they fit the same light socket), they āseemā to be interchangeable. Here are the specs for a 1157 dual filament bulb from the Wagner Lamp Specification Guide http://www.fme-cat.com/digipubZ/Wagner-Lighting-Spec-Guide/#?page=34
Filament Volts Watts Amps Candlepower
Low 14.0 8.26 0.59 3
High 12.8 26.88 2.10 32
The entire circuit must be designed with all of the components including the bulbs but unfortunately for the older cars with bimetallic flasher cans, the circuits were designed for a specific amperage. Yes replacing it with an electronic flasher will make the system work but then the āclickā is no longer present. Modern cars use electronic flashers and yes you hear a click, but that sound comes from a speaker playing an audio clip!!
Coach Jack
First off Paul welcome to the community and the madness it involves 
When you get a chance post some picās of your cat .
From what your saying "unplug the lead in the trunk to the drivers side tail lights " your problem is somewhere between the plug and the lights. Check your wires, bulbs and such, heat usually indicates resistance and a short or ground. 
I have a late 67 XR7 and I have power to my 8 wire that is orange with the fuse but no power to K6 and K 10 would this indicate a problem with the hazard part of the turn signal switch ?
seems I have a bad connection where the two blue wires meet at the steering colum connector and it was giving intermittent power.
Finally lights working, one question though I removed the negative battery cable to work on the lights and the car as I replace the cable I can hear a relay clicking, key off is there a relay that is always powered ?
Not sure if my particular problem got covered here. I am new to this forum as I just yesterday purchased a 1967 Cougar.
Brake lights work, headlights work. When I use the turn signals, left or right, the indicators light up solid, but no clicking sounds, and I can hear the sequential relay motors going in the back, but no lights whatsoever are working (front or back) for turn signals.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
T
Welcome to the madness.
As for your taillights not working, download and read my pdf file.
Coach Jack
Hi coach jack!
Been reading up on turn signal trouble shooting and im still having probs. I have a 68 xr7. Ive replaced the turn signal switch and just installed the full replacement control system in the trunk with the solid state aftermarket unit from cjpony parts. My emergency flashers work great now. Front turn signals and rear turn signals work awesome now. The indicator lights in the dash also work great BUT I donāt get the individual turn signals at all. The indicators donāt even work. The in trunk replacement unit came with a wiring diagram but some of the wiring colors donāt match the wiring diagram. I also have a full wiring diagram book of the 68 cougar and some of those wiring colors donāt match either. The book I bought looks like the original old school diagram book for the whole electrical system of the car. Its been yrs since my signals have worked and now im halfway there. Tired of workin on this damn thing.
MeanMerc,
The only difference in the turn signal wiring between a 67 and 68 (besides that the connectors), is that the 68 have two extra wires one for the right turn signal indicator and one for the left turn signal indicator, but since you state that they work when the hazards are on, then these are ok.
Verify input power on circuit #8 Orange yellow wire. Note this circuit is protected by an inline 15 amp fuse. Note that the hazards has its own input power on circuit #10 green re wire.
Coach Jack