67 bypass turn signal relays

I am looking for a wiring diagram showing how too bypass the turn signal relays on a 67 cougar. I saw the video on line.Thank you.

Why do you want to bypass the relays? What is the problem you are currently experiencing?

The k10 emergency flasher relay is easily bypassed by jumpering the two solid yellow wire together and jumpering the two yellow black wires together.
You can do this if you only have the center bulbs flashing when using the turn signals. Note this will also provide you with sequential emergency flashers.

If however you are asking about bypassing the k8 and k9 relays, I highly suggest that you do not do this as the brake light circuit depends on your k8/ k9 relay.

You can downlowd my complete writeup for the 67 Sequentials from the following link:

Coach Jack

Hi coach Jack, thank you for replying. My relays k5 and k7 are bad and I saw a video about bypassing them by using the flasher relay in the dash. But the video didn’t show enough detail for my to feel comfortable trying it. I have already spent quite a bit of money replacing relays k 6 k 8 k 9 and the seq. motor. Thank you

I have been using your document about everything you wanted to know about turn signals to test my relays and switches.

You can bypass the k5 and k6 relays by tapping into the 448 (left) and 449 (right) circuits that feed the front turn signal indicators. Greg Murphy aka Devildog had a writeup on how he did this with his car but I don’t know if he published it online. And with this mod, you can bypass the k7 relay by just jumpering the k7s circuits 458 (orange-black) directly to circuit 459 (Orange-green).

Hope this helps

Coach Jack

Thank you, do you know how I could research the write up on greg murphy’s post? Im new at this site. I saw his video but I would like more details concerning the way he feed off the 448 and 449 connections.

I watched his video again (for those who are following along: https://cccforum.discoursehosting.net/t/help-with-67-front-marker-turn-signal-light/2756/6 ) but unfortunately the link to the diagram he mentions is no longer valid. However the tap he refers to at the 2:45 mark and shows a closeup of at the 4:48 mark of the video is exactly how he is getting the signal from the 448 and 449 circuits. Referring to the 67 turn signal bible, “1967 Mercury Cougar Sequential Turn Signal and Emergency Flasher System”, the plug behind the dash that Greg refers to is the P J 5 connector (Greg refers to this as the d40 3d 45 connection). This connector has four circuits, but most importantly the 2 middle circuits are 448 and 449. Notice at the 4:48 mark, his connector has 3 female connectors and 1 male connector. The other side of the connector has 3 male connectors and 1 female connector but more importantly, the two black wires in the middle are added as these are the 2 new wires that he uses to bypass the k5 relay.

By disconnecting the P J 5 connector, one side of the connector attaches to the P 5 connector and the other connects to the J 5 connector. He then runs the 2 additional wires down to the J 30 connector ( for the K5 relay ) and plugs the 449 wire into circuit 50 for the left and the 448 wire into circuit 49 for the right. Note that wire for circuit 50 has a male bullet connector whereas the wire for circuit 49 has a female connector.

The fused wire he shows bypasses the K7 relay at connector p37 one end of the wire plugs into circuit 458 and the other end of the wire plugs into circuit 459. The stub goes into the middle of the p37 connector (although I would personnaly just tape over the middle p37 connector as it is already a female connection). At this point the k5 k6 and k7 are all bypassed. You can leave the K6 relay alone with its wiring still attached, or if you remove your k6 relay from your car , you should tape over all 3 wires at the J39 connector that plugged into the K6 relay.

Just one other thought, I believe Ford bullet connectors are 0.180 so you will want to use either 0.176 or the larger 0.188 and fiddle with them to get them to fit snug and tight, especially on the bypass jumper as one of the 4 wires circuit 37 is connected directly to the starter solenoid’s battery terminal and it is NOT fused.

If you do this mod, I would appreciate it if you take photos and I will incorporate the information and your photos into my pdf file.

Let me know if you need any more details.

Coach Jack

Thank you for your time and work on this. I have 1 question, Greg’s video shows (two) 4 pin connectors on one end of the jumper wires, does one plug into the k5 relay connection (pj30) and the other plug into the k6 relay connection (pj39)? Thank you.

The 4 pin connector splices in between the P J 5 connector. The P 5 connector has 3 male connectors and 1 female connector whereas the J 5 connector is exactly opposite, that is 3 female connectors and 1 male connector.

The video at the 3:56 mark shows Greg’s 4 pin connector one side has 3 female connections and 1 male connection (male connection on outer wire) and the other side is a reverse image 3 male connectors and 1 female connector. So Greg’s connector plugs directly between the PJ 5 connector.

The two wires that Greg added to his splice plug into the J30 connector where the k5 relay plugs in. (Note the P30 connector is physically attached to the K5 relay so it is not used).

As for the k6, you can leave it in place or as I pointed out if you remove it, make sure you either put female stubs over the male connections on J39 or tape over them.

Coach Jack

So I had middle bulb out on the drivers side tail light. I replaced it and and when the turn signal is on the middle just blinks. The passenger side is ok.

So is this still the k10 relay going bad as mentioned earlier in this thread? Can it be rebuilt or repaired? Will buy another one if needed. I don’t want to jumper or bypass anything.

The k10 is side agnostic, its only function is connect power from the sequencer for the inner and outer taillights for the Turn signals. It also disconnects power to the inner and outer taillights when HZWSW ON. So if your passenger side sequences properly but only the middle blinks on the drivers side, your problem is with the k8/k9 relay, the wiring from the K9 side of the relay to the left inner and left outer taillights, or the left inner and left outer bulbs.

Coach Jack

Hi Coach jack, I hope you are having a good day. I made a good jumper wiring harness, all bulbs tested ok,
Testing system: right or left signal on, however, I have a middle tail light that stays on. The outer lights sequence ok.
Front left light stays on but dims in sequence. Front right light doesn’t come on.
Dash, left signal on, left bulb stays on but dims in sequence, Right signal on, right dash light off.
Thank you.I will send you some pictures of the wiring harness soon.

Would you know why the center tail light stays on during a turn signal operation? Both in right and left signal. Thank you.

The center taillights are powered directly from the sequencer ( and Im talking about the original mechanical sequencers). The sequencer has three cams, (one for the inner, center and outer tailights) which connects and disconnects power to the bulbs. The only way the mechanical sequencer can provide power to the center lights is if there is a short in the sequencer itself. Are you using LED bulbs in the taillights? If so, I always recommend troubleshooting the system with the battery fully charged, the engine running and charging the system and incandescent 1157 bulbs in the taillights. Also, make sure your grounds are all clean and tight.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Coach Jack

Thank you. I just replaced the sequencer motor. I got it from west coast cougar. I replaced all bulbs with standard 1157. They work in headlight and brake light position. You think I got a bad sequencer motor from West coast cougar?

I sent you some pictures of the wiring harness and connections on my car like you asked for. I sent them in private messages.

You need to test the K7 relay. First verify that the ground wire from the sequencer is clean and tight, you can also use a jumper wire to ground this wire to make absolutely sure it is properly grounded. Next disconnect the P J 77 connector which plugs into the sequencer motor. Place a 12 volt FUSED power source on the Sequencer 459 circuit, this circuit is the input power to the sequencer (on the P77 connector 459 is the only Male connector). You should now hear the sequencer motor running. Place a test light (or if you have 3 test lights) onto the other three circuits 436, 437 and 438, these are the inner, middle and outer taillights and verify that the sequencer sequences!!

Coach Jack

I have another question concerning the vacuum- electrical headlight switch. I have clean good grounds, 12 volts to switch, no vacuum leaks, but doors wont open. Tested vacuum on door bellows and they hold. The rubber diaphragm in the vacuum switch is good because it holds vacuum on my finger when I push the bypass lever down. I think the electric magneto in the switch could be bad. I have been looking online for just the magneto, but all I find are new and rebuilt complete switches for around $250. Any advice? Thank you.

Did you get the pictures I sent you?

Yes thank you, I got the pictures.

Coach Jack