Unfortunately last year when the Cougar was repainted, they missed a questionable spot on the driver’s door. Up on the lift, I noted the classic rust from water in the door area. Attached are photos. Of course, suggestions on best repair option are desired (I’ll explain my desired methods below), however this post is to help me figure out how to prevent it from happening again.
As you can see from the photos, the area of the perforations is NOT in the area where the window regulator, etc. live. They are in the area of the door just forward of the lower rounded portion of the inner door panel. Obviously water got in there somehow, but this is the first I’ve had this happen (the car has been garaged a good bit of it’s life). So, in addition to repairing the damage, I want to seal that area so water can’t get there again. Here’s where I would love your sage input.
REPAIR METHOD: As you can see, I drilled holes on the inside of the door panel adjacent the perforations. My intent is to take a local sandblaster from both sides of the door, into the holes, and try and abrasively clean any rust residue remaining. I’ll then vacuum it out and use phosphoric acid (likely naval jelly) more than ones to coat, dry, rinse with solvent, then repeat. Once complete, I’ll use bondo to fill the holes. If anyone has some wisdom here, please share.
BUT AGAIN - what I’d really like is thoughts on how to protect the area in the future. How did the water get there? Should I get some good sealer (like a seam sealer or other material), and go inside the forward lower section of the inner door and seal that as best I can? Input on this would be appreciated. As our Nuclear coatings specialist said many times - rust never sleeps. Oh, well.
pour a liquid rust converter (usually a mint color) in the bottom of the doors. Let dry a couple of days, repeat if necessary. 3M panel bond works well in these tiny hole situations. sands easy, hates water (unlike Bondo). U could try things like naval jelly, evaporust, but cleaning them out after… well
Virtually every Cougar I restore has the same issue in both doors. My body guy welds patches in the front of every door. He butt welds them. The door will of course need to be painted afterwards.
Hi !
I had the same issue ,so since there is no reproduction 67 Cougar door skin panel. I cut the bottom of the door ,remove the rusted skin sandblast the interior of the door and fabricated a new door bottom. By the way I don’t have any welding or metal fabrication experience .no special tools. Goodwill is the only thing you need. Good luck !
thanks all. I’m confident the repairs will go well since this was caught quite early. Portable sandblaster due in today (although not sure I’ll be able to blast alot). Then, yes, twice with some phosphoric acid - first with the thin liquid, then 2nd with naval jelly.
I have some bondo that I’ll fill with, sand, prime, then blend my leftover paint. After that clear coat.
I’m just looking for a way to seal above those front areas so that it hopefully never comes back. I’m still wondering where the moisture came from since those spots are in front of the window regulator area (vs. part of it).
Hi !
Sorry but what you are intending to do is a plaster on a wound.
There is no way to prevent all the water and moisture to reach the bottom of that door design even if seal the complete window and vent.
Royce said that is body work guy cut the skin ,remove the rust ,seal and install a skin patch.
That’s what I did ,It’s not the easiest solution but the most permanent.
I’m not a expert but it’s easy to see that area is a problem on all those Ford
All things considered, since this is the first time in 58 years - not so bad! The prep I do will likely be better than it left the factory back then. I’m not inclined to do a panel replacement at this time based on that. It’s garaged pretty much all the time. If it comes back sooner than later, then we can fabricate at that time.
Being from Florida originally I have dealt with quite a bit of rust and found several products that work well.
I always start by sandblasting if possible.
Blue lightening products has a rust converter that works really well.
Por15 is an excellent product that is hard as nails and works really well if area is prepped correctly. I use it on any welded seams or repairs to prevent moisture from causing future rust. It will penetrate in to pinholes and cracks.
Like Bill said use rust converter then either Por15 or something like Eastwood internal frame zinc coating.
I always use a self etch primer over the por15. It will help panel bond or any filler bond better. Por15 is very slick when dry.
Perhaps you already know this, perhaps not. There is a thin rubber seal that goes along the lower edge of the vent window frame to seal it to the door sheetmetal. There is also another seal that goes at the front edge of the vent window frame to seal it to the door. If either of those seals are damaged or missing that makes it much easier for water to find its way to the front corner of the door shell.
For what it’s worth, when my doors were off and empty, I power washed all the dirt and silt that had settled in the door bottoms and corners over the decades. Then immediately blew shop air into the bottom at the seam to dry it out before adding more rust. The silt/dirt soaks up the moisture and holds it there while the rust continues to eat. Then after bodywork and paint, apply your favorite rust inhibitor for longevity.
Thanks, Randy (Cathouse) - that’s the information I was looking for. As I stated, I could not understand how the water may have gotten down to that front section - you have explained it.
With the door hinge structural hardware inside the front of the door - access is challenging - but I think I can get a spray nozzle to hit that area. If worse comes to worst, I’ll use a narrow brush and brush some stuff back there before putting the door panel back on.
70scj4spvert - fortunately for me the insides were quite clean. There is/was surface rust in some areas that I’ve already hit with phosphoric acid. I’ll likely try and spray some sort of rust prevention paint also for grins before putting the sealer on top of that.
Any one have thoughts for a good spray sealer? Flex Seal?
This product is in a spray can and is what I plan on using after painting. It’s thin enough get in the tight areas that are problematic spots. It shouldn’t be applied till after painting because it will cause fisheyes in the paint.
