A quick question on gauge removal. I thought I’d ask before breaking something. It appears that to remove the gauges you need to disconnect the parking brake handle to make room to reach behind the gauge to unscrew the speedometer cable?
The goal is to remove and reuse the dash parts and dash pad. Passenger side is removed.
Thanks.
When I pull a cluster I first drop the steering column down or completely remove it when the car is being parted out. Then remove all the screws holding the cluster to the metal dash frame, leave the speedometer cable attached. With the cluster loose there is enough slack in the speedometer cable to pull the cluster away from the dash frame and then you can get a wrench in there to remove the cable. It is a little tight but not too bad.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
WCCC has a video of 67/68 dash cluster and dash pad removal on an XR 7. Process similar on a standard. As Randy states the instrument cluster can wiggle out enough to disconnect speedometer- can do without dropping column or emergency brake. Take your time and be sure all screws and nuts are out.
True it can be done. If you need to remove the instrument cluster without removing the steering column it is necessary to protect the steering column and steering wheel against scratches. I tape a rag around them.
I hadn’t thought about dropping the steering column yet, but I’ll do that and remove it. It’s a tilt column that I’d like to reuse. That should give plenty of room to reach up in there.
The cluster right now moves to about 1/2” away from the dash, if that.
The steering wheel is junk, so no worries about scratching it.
I’ll look for the WCCC removal video. I’ll be ready to remove the dash pad after the guages, the next chance I get to work on it.
Be sure to keep the rag joint with that tilt column as it is different than a non tilt rag joint.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Thanks, I’ll do that.
I got the gauges, steering column and dash pad removed the other day. The dash pad is probably the best remaining part of the car. It was kind of a pain getting to the steering column bolt at the rag joint. Rusted bolts in the hood just spin. A canister on the passenger side has been relocated and is blocking access to remove the hood hinge bolts in the fender. The driver’s side hood hinge bolts just spun, but I was able to get them out with vise grips on the back side. After that I was able to remove one of the braces to make room for access.
I won’t post another thread for this simple question. Bottom pictures, how do I remove the remote mirror control? Does it unscrew?
With any degree of luck the bezel isn’t that tight on the remote control cable housing / mechanism ( backside of the door panel ). Most times it can simply be unscrewed by hand. Failing that, here’s the tool ( from West Coast Classic Cougars ):
As gah has posted above you just need to unscrew the chrome bezel from the front of the door panel. Once the bezel is removed watch that you do not lose the special washer that you can see in your last photo between the remote and the back of the door panel. Also there will often be a clip that will hold the cable against the door shell above the upper hinge.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
Thanks for the replies. No luck removing it last night without a tool. it’s on tight.
I have used a small straight screwdriver to catch in one of the notches and then hit it with a hammer to drive it off. Once you break it free they usually will then spin off by hand.
Randy Goodling
CCOA #95
