Decided to take on a DIY alignment using a digital Caster/Camber kit after I couldn’t find a shop despite the simplistic design (a lot of no we don’t do those responses…).
Car has all new stock replacement steering/suspension parts and has a staggered tire/wheel setup (front = 215/50ZR17 on 7 inch wheel; rear = 245/45ZR17 on 8 inch wheel).
I’ve set drivers side per what the shop manual describes as “optimum resetting specifications” (both +1 degree) but now am questioning the camber due to potential tire wear on outside edge.
Poking around in the digital universe looks like target (preferred) caster should be somewhere between +2 and +3 degrees and target camber somewhere between 0 and -0.5 degrees.
Anyone care to offer a recommendation?
Thx, Jim
Allign as a 2005 crown vic….you ll love it
The factory specs are for bias-ply tires; modern radial tires take a much different alignment. You can find a good alignment for our classic cars on various forums.
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Here are the alignment specs from Open Tracker that most on the vintage mustang forum shoot for.
Open Tracker Alignment Specs
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Follow the Open Tracker specs with radial tires. Camber should be 0 to slightly negative which allows the tire tread to be more evenly loaded across its width while the suspension compresses in a turn. Positive camber does show up as outside edge wear on your tires. Too much negative camber has the same effect on the inside shoulder.
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Third on the open tracker specs. Im running a similar tire/wheel combo along with a shelby drop and 1” lower springs.
Good on you for doing your own alignment. I do this as well at home. I have access to an alignment machine but its only setup for larger trucks and the heads dont fit on my wheels. I dont trust a shop to do my alignment
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Appreciate all the recommendations to use Open Tracker specs - message received.
DIY alignment - like so many other areas of these old cars - isn’t hard so long as you have interest in learning new things and buy the right tools. I ended up settling on a digital clinometer kit with mounting apparatus and a pair of turn plates. Instrument was a little more money than the bubble type but well worth the improved accuracy and repeatability. Also, equipment is very easy to use once you get familiar.
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I have the same Longacre setup. I like it, just have to be careful of making sure the adaptor stays on the wheel. Just dont have the turn plates, which ones do you have?
Nothing terribly fancy but do work very well. I’ll send you PM with link.
A very cheap version of turn plates is to use plastic trash bags (3 mil at least!) folded in half.
This is what I’ve done in the past but turn plates would so much nicer to have!
