I havnt contacted WCCC yet, but checking on recommendations on rear leaf springs to at least level, if not a very slight forward rake (rear higher) for my 68 with 390, before I upgrade the wheels to a Shelby style (17-7/8) this spring.
Will this change in leaf springs also trigger a coil spring change in the front?
I should have taken a good pic and measurements before putting the car in storage, but here is a past pic.
The vid is for a 67, but you get the idea!
Because of the angle change you get a little more weight pushed toward the front. Like a few lbs and not enough to see a difference. It may set a little different, but it won’t make a difference in anything.
I did something similar on my small block car, but the ones listed for 390 2-barrel to replace the then 51 year old ones on my '68 302. Returned it to the shop/body/assembly manual listed height, and slightly stiffer.
I thought I read somewhere where Cougars have always had a slight reverse rake…i.e. rear was slightly lower from factory. I didn’t want to go though the process in buying/installing new leafs to go from sagging to less sagging 
Otherwise, I need to go ahead and check into these recommendations to get this car leveled out.
I think I’ll go with a set of competition springs and a set of new shocks.
Along with the rebuild of the front end and 1" lower coils I should have a nice stance.
I’ve bought several sets of rear leaf springs over the years. 2 sets in the past 6 months. My opinion - it’s a crap shoot as far as the ride height. Some springs might put the rear way up in the air. Others will result in the rear being lower than before the swap.
Best bet: Have your original springs re - arched to get the desired ride height. Much cheaper than spring replacement. Results guaranteed. Most major cities have more than one spring shop.
Best bet: Have your original springs re - arched to get the desired ride height. Much cheaper than spring replacement. Results guaranteed. Most major cities have more than one spring shop.
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I had talked with our local shop and they told me they have three listings for re-arching, standard,GT and competition so I wasn’t sure about them, wccc has a dozen options , I concluded I’d probably be better off getting them from wccc not knowing what I’d get back from our local shop .
I haven’t thought in re-arching them…will check with a local company to see what their turnaround time. Only thought new to help keep my downtime to a minimum as I have limited working space.
This is what I did. I wanted to raise mine about 1-1/2". I can’t remember exactly, but it was only a couple few hundred bucks and a half day. I just told them what I wanted the final height to be and it was exactly to the inch.
Agree on the re arch, most places will turn them around in a day if you bring them the springs.
I think this will be the route I take as well, however I’m going the opposite way.
Some Assembly Manuals have a dimension for the ride hide in them-I can’t remember if it is in the Cougar Manuals. The dimensions are for the distance of the centerline of the axle- ground to front fender and rear quarter. I believe it is in the Chassis Manual. I recall a table for different variants of tire/suspension.
The springs from JRS are under $88 each, w/ shipping is still cheaper than other options. I’ve used them (JR Spring) for over 20 years & never had an issue. Our local spring shops do not guarantee the “re-arching” of springs. The metal fatigues over time (like 50+ years!) and usually does not hold very long.Some people have even tried to replace just a leaf or 2…???
New, delivered to your door? Other than some help removing the old ones( can be a MAJOR issue) , why bother w/ used???
Seconded as to the “don’t attempt to re-arch”.
Just last week I talked to our local spring shop that has been in operation forever and has a good rep.
The shop man himself said they would do it but the old springs would probably go back to just about where they are now.
TG
The places I use are huge because every semi truck driver uses them and they always guarantee their work so I don’t know where that comment comes from. No one makes springs that look right and work like the OEM ones. Re - Arching has yielded far better results for me. I would spend any amount of money to have new ones that I could bolt on that had the right ride height. So far they have not existed for me despite years of sending cash and receiving springs.
Royce ,where could I get the specs on the springs , our local shop does big rigs as well but they only have 3 listings for a 68 Cougar?
They don’t need specs. I bring springs to them and say “this needs to measure 1” higher" or “this needs to be 2’ lower” or whatever specifically I want different when I return. I put a tape measure on the springs at the place where the axle mounts. I come back and they are dead nuts on. They use a hydraulic press - a huge one - to bend the leafs individually. They either bead blast or wire wheel the springs, and apply graphite slip paint between the leaves. After the springs are assembled they install new clamps and a new center bolt and nut and if desired they paint the spring. I like mine bare metal so I can apply the desired finish later.
The MPC gives spring rates and the AMA homologation papers give arch dimensions if you are trying to make springs from scratch.
Thanks, I guess I was thinking about it to much
