Transmissions and engines are heavy. I can’t imagine doing it any other way. It took maybe 30 minutes to stick the transmission in. By this time tomorrow the engine will be in.
I usually do engine first transmission second… I may need to switch that around and give it a try.
I too may have to try it this way.
Watch what happens next. I’ve tried it many different ways. This is really simple and less work than the other ways that I have tried.
I raise the rear of the car as high as I can on jack stands. Then install the trans & engine together.
I think Chrysler really had the right idea with the K-member. Put it all together and raise up into the engine bay.
OK engine and tranny are in. Next weekend it’s going to be running with any luck! Pictures will come when I have time.
I started out by removing the manifold coating where the manifold meets the head. Then cleaned the blue paint off the engine in the same area. A light coat of Super Black RTV went around each port, then the driver side manifold is installed. The passenger side will go in when the engine is in the car. I left the forward manifold bolt loose because the dipstick tube attaches there after installation.
I ran a 1/2"-20 NF tap in each of the smog tube holes to make sure they would go in easily. Then cleaned off the blue paint where the engine grounds attach.
The engine is picked up with the chain and the block plate and flywheel installed. The flywheel bolts are torqued to 65 LB - Ft with Blue Permatex thread locker on them. The engine is at TDC which places the torque converter bolts at 12, 4, 6, and 9 o’clock. A little grease is smeared on the inner crankshaft so the torque converter pilot will not be corroded in place next time it comes apart.
Some assembly lube is placed on the torque converter and a quart of fluid poured into it before it is slipped into the transmission, making sure that it is also aligned with its studs at 12, 4, 6 and 9 o’clock.
The engine is lowered into position so that the transmission to engine bolt holes align. I installed a couple of 289 / 302 head bolts as guides for the outboard holes. Then I got a creeper between the legs of the engine hoist so I could look at the alignment of the torque converter holes. I used a small screwdriver to turn the torque converter just slightly so the holes were perfectly in line.
With the transmission now being supported by the engine I put a set of needle nose vice grips on the nuts of the straps holding the transmission up previously. I remove the nuts, and cut the safety wire holding the vacuum modulator line clip to the transmission and pull everything out of the way. Then all the transmission bolts can be installed for good.
I cleaned the threads on the exhaust manifold studs using the fiberglass wheel, then ran a die over each of them. A little silicone RTV goes on the lip of the manifold where it bolts to the head before it is bolted in place.
Note - I cleaned the flat spot where the spacer meets the manifold too before I installed it. Don’t want any leaks later.
So close you can almost hear the r code sing!!! Such a beautiful car.
Carrying on where we left off, the passenger side manifold is installed with the engine in the car. It gets in the way big time if you tried bolting it to the engine first.
The rear bracket for the air cleaner heat shield is a reproduction. The stud fell out of it when I took it out of the plastic bag, so that had to be tack welded to the bracket. The other end of it had its hole drilled off somewhat so it had to be elongated so it would fit and work.
The smog tubes on both sides come next. First the ferrules are screwed in finger tight. Then the tube assembly is shoved in until it bottoms. All the ferrules are tightened with an open end 1/2" wrench as tight as they can get.
Bad picture since the drop light under the car is glaring at us, but it’s the only picture I have of tightening the starter bolts.
This lets me install the motor mounts and the starter cable on the passenger side. On the driver side I install the motor mount.
I dropped the engine and slipped the bolts in place through the motor mounts. The engine is now in place and the hoist is gone for good!
I understand how to get the bottom and side bolts, but how did you get to the top bolt on the starter with that big as manifold in the way?
By the way, good job I too just finished installing a CJ in a 69, lots of fun