That’s interesting that you actually needed to ground the compressor case, you’d think it would have no problem connecting to ground through the mounting brackets. Which PWM fan controller are you using? I’m considering going this route as my fans are insanely loud at 100% on.
I was caught off guard with that one too, didn’t think it would need it but apparently my paint job on the bracket was too good to get a good ground. Easy fix none the less
My pwm is from auto cool guy. The website is terrible but it’s easy enough to reach out directly for questions. Very helpful if needed. I’ve been very happy with it and even installed one in my dad’s Mustang. I have the 85amp version on both cars. Wiring is simple and it’s weather resistant enough to be under the hood. It will control the fans from 0-100% as needed and you can limit max fan duty cycle with the knob. As the engine warms up they will increase as needed to control desired temp. Override circuit to run a remote switch to go straight to 100% if needed. Ac control with independent speed setting triggered by 12v so will cycle fans to set speed when compressor cycles even on a cold engine. Fans will run for 1min once car is shut off as a cool down function. I have mine limited to around 60-70% and controls temps just fine on the hottest days. I will probably need to adjust ac fan speed higher to compensate but will see.
I think any pwm fan controller is a must with electric fans. Relays work but it’s either on or off with no in between. If I remember I have the same fans you do and when they are running at full tilt it’s quite loud!
This was the best option I found at the time but there may be better options out there today.
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Can’t believe it’s been over 6 months since I’ve done anything with the car but here we are! Life has been doing its best to kick me in the nuts but I digress.
In the last post I mention not being happy with the charge level based on the pressures I was seeing. I was having trouble with my vacuum pump leaking then one of my fittings to my gauge set blew the seal and caused a small loss of refrigerant so I wanted to do a proper Evac and recharge. Broke out the cheat code and borrowed the ac machine from work.
Rechecking pressures and discharge temps I was happy with the results with ambient temps at 98 degrees and about 105 on the road. vent discharge temps at 39* parked at idle. Running fans at 100% to compensate for being parked at idle.
Quick road test confirmed everything was good. I still need to adjust the fans to accommodate the extra heat from the condenser but with the fan controller that’s easy to adjust. Will clean up the wiring and finish the heater hose/valve install over the course of the next 6 months! Overall I’m happy with the vintage air kit. It does have some quirks here and there but for me was the best option for my car without factory air. Is it as good as a factory r12 system? Probably not but for a non ac car it’s worth it.
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That’s a really good discharge temp. Best I could get out of mine with a fresh charge was low 40s on 95+ degree day. I wasn’t running both fans at idle full time, maybe that would have brought it down more. Compared to A/C on a modern car the Vintage Air feels a little underpowered on my car, but it’s still way better than having no A/C.
One of the neat items on a 67 factoty ac is the foam coated ac duct hose. Never seen it available in bulk but keeping the cold air really cold til the last minute make sense.
All tho its kinda ugly , putting the foam tubing on all the col lines in the engine compartment really helps too
Agree, modern vehicles have gotten so much better ac wise that its hard to compare to what we drive today. I would like to see the discharge temp a little lower and more air flow from the center vents. The fans do play a big part in how things are working too. This is why it helps to have the controller to adjust fan speeds when the compressor is engaged vs not.
I spent alot of time with the ducting to try and balance it out but its so tight in the dash of these cars there is not too much you can do. Vintage has updated their ac kits within the past few years that they may have improved on these things too.
I also do not have tinted windows, This makes a big difference on a/c performance as well
good point on the insulated ducting, This may help some but I dont think it would have a huge impact on the overall discharge temp. If it was not such a pita to install all the ducting I would say it would be worth testing out to see how it would improve.
Our 67 was a factory ac car so it had the greenish factory glass
Dont really like the limo tint look on these cars
3m makes a clear tint with 98%uv protection. Did the windshield on my wifes Liberty….huge improvement on sun rays on your legs
My plan was to use traditional tint and tint them before installing the glass. I changed my mind and realized I kinda like it without the tint but it sucks to drive with none. I have thought about the clear ceramic tint that blocks the UV its about double the cost of regular tint
I was never a fan of tints due to the quality and seeing them bubble up over time.
After a small bout with skin cancer, I found a good installer with quality products to help reduce the UV effects on me. I was surprised in how well the 30% products worked in reducing heat in car and me…especially on my left arm.
I installed the nearly clear ceramic tint on the windshield of a new Mustang and happy with the heat reduction as well…it does cost more than a typical tint though.
Put window tint on my daily. The whole shmear. Couldn’t be happier. Thinking of doing it to Greeny. But my glass is NOT great. So if I upgrade, I’m looking for 70 side glass. According to Don Rush. That’s an upgrade. So on the list it goes.
Yes do the 1970 bolt-in style glass ‘upgrade’. Just make sure you change the window regulators, as well. And don’t listen to those people who say that you can use 1969 bolt-in glass window regulators with 1970 glass - you can’t.
You’ll end up with one of two ( or both ! ) problems:
(a) the window won’t properly align with the weatherstrip - it will be too far inboard, and can’t be adjusted to make a proper seal because of the ‘jag’ in the front ( 1969 ) regulator roller
(b) there will be an audible binding ‘thunk’ if you try to use the 1969 regulator with the 1970 bolt-in glass ( again due to the ‘jag’ at the end of the front arm of the regulator )
WCCC currently shows stock for the power window regulator ( only one left - passenger side ) and no stock for the drivers side.
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all my dailys run 20% on the side and back glass. Being a native AZ resident this is the first and only vehicle I have not run tint on. Quality of tint matters with how long it will last. I just replaced the tint on my F250. Its 16years old and has never seen a garage. I want to invest in clear ceramic for the windshield too but I know it will take a rock and crack right after dropping 150bucks to tint it!
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I’m also in az and some of the new uv tint goes on the outside and helps to prevent rock chips.
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