My question is, is this a self tapping tread point, I’ve done these before but I’ve changed out old for new and went with it but I’m looking at the four I have for the best two and none of them have very much female threads in them but I suspect this is normal ?
This is kinda "normal after 50 years. The inner threads are the important ones. Blast the arm clean.
Install Moog kits K8131. Pre grease threads & inside ends.
Measure from both bolt centers to ends screwed in (w/ arm upside down). Turn in & try to keep them same distance
I use long awl to move shaft to feel how tight. Should be a bit tight.
Sorry I can’t find my pics yet…
The inner threads are my concern, I have not ever bought new upper control arms but is there a inner thread already there when bought or is it self made by shaft end nut?
It’s already there.
Ok thanks, I’ll have to look real close, I guess I may have to get new ones, I have another pair that ill have to look closer at but they have a pressed in type that I hadn’t seen before.
Any one seen this type before I have not, I’m going to dismantle it and see if it’s useable
Upper arms with pressed rubber bushings are probably from a later Granada/Monarch/Versailles or Maverick/Comet.
The pressed in ones ruined the threads, bummer, of 6 none are any good.
The arms w/ bushings can be used if nothing else is avail. K8131 will screw into them & weld to keep in place. The quality of the arms you posted leave ALOT to be desired. See if any one has some 3 bolt upper’s for sale. Those rusty ones are ugly.
Remember the threads on the outside of the shaft ends do nothing, it’s the inside threads of the new shaft kits that take the load.
Looks like they are out of stock at Rock auto due to covid. Moog has been sold/closed, but they have a new brand name.
"“Quick Steer” is the new name for MOOG parts.
Thanks Bill, they have only surface rust I’ll be blasting them and check for cracks, I did watch a video last night that referenced tack welding them which is what I’ll do, I can tighten them but I can see areas that don’t have threads so I was concerned but welding clears my mind
If he’s restoring a '68 four rivet uppers are what he will want.
I am trying to keep all stock as much as possible, I did find the Ford logo on the spring perch’s , I’m going to attempt to change the bushings on them. got them from NPD.
That means it is service replacement, original had no logo
I wouldn’t have expected that, the other pair something like LTI on them?
I don’t know these things , I’ll just have to make my best judgment, I’m not going for date codes and such my intentions are to just change color and engine.
I wasn’t to sure how these were going to work out having not done them before but good
