68 XR7 Ignition Wiring Problems

Hi everyone. First time member here.Thanks for reading this post. I have a 68 XR7 with a 302 and C4 automatic. I am asking for advice on re-wiring the ignition switch to the coil and starter solenoid. Has anyone ever replaced or re-wired just this area of the vehicle?

My Cougar was running fine until one day it had no crank no start. After some basic wiring diagnostics, there seems to be no power from the ignition switch to the S terminal of the starter solenoid (next to the left terminal next to the battery cable main terminal). The I terminal has power.

Further diagnostic showed that I am getting power full to everywhere else in the wiring loom.

I disconnected the tach and tried to bypass it to start the vehicle, but that did not work. The tach seems to have good connectivity and did not go bad. At the same time, I also have very little voltage to the coil, coming in at 3-4 volts or lower. Not enough to start or keep the car on. I surmise that the blast resistor wire has built up too much resistance in it, and needs to be replaced as well.

So my main question is, has anyone set up a bypass wiring system that runs through the key, and replaces the blast resistor wire? I would like to keep the original setup if I can.

What terminal of the ignition switch would I run a bypass wire from, to the I terminal on the solenoid? Also, has anyone set up another loom from the starter switch to the coil, to gain a full 6 volts once in run position?

Any help would be great. I am not a professional mechanic by any means. Local shops won’t touch my car and I’m at the point of thinking of selling it as it is. I cannot figure this out. I have a factor wiring diagram, but it’s not very helpful at helping me future out how to run a new ballast resistor wire from the switch to the coil and those other wires that need to go to it.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I’d first tackle the no crank issue. Typically, that is due to the transmission/neutral safety switch out of alignment. Try putting the transmission in Neutral and try cranking the car. Try jiggling the transmission lever (be careful not to put it in gear!) and see if it can crank.

It could be your problem is a very low battery, which could explain your low voltage at the coil and no cranking.

With the wire off the + side of the coil, you should see a full 12V with the key in RUN or CRANK.

1 Like

Hi Midlife. Thanks very much for the quick reply. I did check the lever and the switch. Moved it about. It is in park and still no crank. There is power to the NSS and I did the factory reset on it as well. This is what made me think i lost power to the I terminal somewhere in the harness and to the coil somehow.

The power from the battery did occur to me. I have a brand-new battery with more cranking amps than necessary. Still nothing.

Do you have power at the firewall plug going down to the neutral start switch?

First Ill reiterate what Midlife stated, tackle the no crank issue first. Is your cougar stock and does it have tilt away steering? Assuming its stock and it has tilt away, make sure you have the drivers door closed and the tilt away locked in the straight ahead position.

If not, then read on for my writeup

Good Luck

Coach Jack

The starting system relies on 7 major components

  1. Battery
  2. Ignition switch
  3. Neutral Safety Switch (automatic transmissions, note some manual transmissions used a safety switch built into the shifter)
  4. Tilt Away steering Starter Neutral Switch (if equipped)
  5. Starter solenoid
  6. Starter Motor
  7. Tachometer (if equipped, affects only the ignition circuit once the engine starts)

Powering up the ignition switch:

Power from the battery is supplied Starter Solenoid’s Battery terminal. Attached to this terminal is circuit 37 (Black Yellow) that runs to the firewall’s flat 4 prong connector. Circuit 37 then continues into the passenger compartment where a main splice in the harness feeds multiple sources which includes the following:
clock (circuit #22 Blue Black)
brake light switch (circuit #10 Green Red),
headlight switch (circuit #25 Black Orange) and
ignition switch (circuit #21 Yellow)

The ignition switch circuit attaches to the switch’s B post. When the ignition switch is turned to the Start position, The B and S posts connect providing power to circuit #32 Red Blue.

When the ignition switch is turned to the Start position, power from the ignition switch goes to a 4 wire square plug located under the dash near the steering column. If the car has an automatic transmission, the wires go to the neutral safety switch located on the transmission case. Note the neutral safety switch connects the circuit only when the transmission is in the Park or Neutral position.

Cars equipped with tilt away steering then route through to a starter safety switch located on the steering column near the vacuum motor so the car cannot be started in the tilt away position. See http://www.concoursmustang.com/speegle/67%20Mustang/Article-67Tilt.pdf

Power then goes back to the square firewall plug on to the starter solenoid’s S wire Circuit #32 (Red-Blue) wire. This in turn engages the starter solenoid’s internal coil and closes the solenoid’s plunger to provide 12 volts to the Starter (via the cable from the starter solenoid’s post opposite the battery connection to the starter) and the I wire circuit #262 (brown) wire. At this point the circuits are complete so that the starter motor should engage and crank the engine.

However for the engine to fire, the i wire Circuit 262 then goes back to the firewall where it connects to the ignition circuit’s #16 (red-green) which goes to the coil, providing power when starting. (Note: the power draw by the starter motor consumes 100+ amps and thus power provided to the I circuit will measure roughly 9 volts, not 12 volts. This is why the resistance wire is bypassed during starting and not to give a brief 12 volt jolt to the ignition systems when starting!!!)

Once the car fires and you return the ignition switch to the Run position, the S circuit disengages (the starter stops cranking) now the ignition switch disconnects the B and S circuit but powers the B and I circuit.

Note the connector at the firewall also connects circuit #16 (to the coil) and the ignition switch on circuit #16A (the pink resistance wire). When the car starts and you return the ignition switch to the “Run” position, power to the coil is now provided via the ignition switch on circuit #16A at a reduced voltage of 8 to 9 volts. If you have an XR7, the power from the resistance wire goes to the Tachometer then to the firewall. If you do not have power at the coil in run position with an XR7, place a bypass wire across the tachometer and retest for power at the coil. Note if the car is running, and you put a Voltmeter on the Starter solenoids I post, you will also read 8 to 9 volts because the wires are all connected at the firewall thus back feeding power from the resistance wire.

I hope this clears things up.

Coach Jack

I’ve found that the typical voltage at the coil using a DVM while the engine is running is more like 10.5 to 11 volts. I think it is this higher than 9V because of the points: not all of the time the points are closed and thus during that time, one would see full battery voltage. The average voltage over time at the coil plus terminal is an average of the time the points are closed and open.

Yes. There seems to be full voltage at that wire down to the NSS.

Coach! Thank you so much for this extensive write-up! This is extremely helpful. Yes my model has a tilt-away wheel. I have tried to start it with driver door open and the wheel in the up position. My door connectors are disconnected from the rest of the harness, but the wheel might be the issue here. That is something I have not checked. I’ll fiddle around and see if this is the culprit.

This has been the most concise write-up I’ve seen on the starting circuit. The factory wiring diagram had me really confused. I did not know that the wheel could also cut off power in any other position. Ill mess with it this weekend and keep you all posted. Cheers!