Hi All,
Looking for some advice before I begin to rebuild the heater box. Don Rush has an excellent video on how to take apart the dash to do the rebuild/replacement heater box in a 69. I only want to do this once.
Different than the very simple looking AC heater core, one copper outlet runs straight towards the firewall, the other up and parallel to the firewall (above the heater core itself)… ( Heater Core - #18476-3 - National Parts Depot )
The heater hoses run through the firewall to attach to both behind the dash.
I would like to extend both thru the firewall, so the rubber hoses attach inside the engine bay instead of inside the dash.
Has anyone done this and if so, what components did you use to extend the 5/8" copper piping?
Any help on copper tubing PSI/temp requirements, fittings used, etc or other options much appreciated.
I did my heater core a while back and i DO have A\C. Could it be as simple as using a A\C heater core? This is my 69 engine side firewall, all the connections are on that side.
Using copper pipe to run the length. Ultimately we could not get the pipe through the firewall to cleanly solder it to the female end (see the slight upward angle). The other option was pushing the male end thru the firewall into engine bay. There was not enough room between core and firewall to make that happen.
Just having to pull upper dash made the decision to attach as engineered easier.
On another note, the issue with heat was the OFF>Heat>defrost control lever. I had assumed it was old foam and debris blocking the door and not letting it move. By pulling the defrost router I could access the control rod and door. It was clear. The lever itself was all gunked up.
So lubed the control rod and the side walls without removing. Dismantled, cleaned and rebuilt the lever and voila! Heat & defrost.
Closing this one out. You can access the air intake box by removing the resistor circled (that may cause leaves to burn) and shining a light in. Mine was shockingly clean.
So, replace hoses and mini service the heater box with just top dash removed. The biggest issue was the back side of the lever panel.
Service clock and radio power while it was apart. Total job took about 6 hours.
