69 Window Brackets Urethaned in wrong spots

When I bought my car the previous owner said the windows needed glued back in. When I rolled the passenger’s side front window up this weekend there was about a 1/4" gap from the seal to the window. Yesterday I took the door panel apart, saw a screw missing on the track and thought this was the problem and it would be an easy fix, wrong. I decided to pull the window out to see what was up. Of course someone glued the window in 1/4" too far back :imp: I was able to get the smaller of the 2 brackets off with a razor blade, a heat gun and mechanics wire, and deadblow hammer but it took some work. After I got it off I was taking a break and watching Don’s video and he said not to use a hammer and if the bracket is glued in to just sacrifice it and cut it off. I guess I got lucky on the smaller bracket using a hammer and the window not breaking. I was thinking of getting some serrated windshield wire and trying to cut the other one off. Good idea or should I just cut the bracket? once the bracket is cut it will still need to be removed from the glass somehow.

Also, there a few rusty spots inside the door. On my winter cars I usually spray Fluid Film on brake lines, fuel lines, rusty areas, in frames, etc to keep from getting worse. I was thinking about spraying this in the corners of the door since they are prone to rusting and couple other rusty areas I saw. I doubt it would be a problem or cause any harm, but what do you guys think?

Actually… 1/4" off should work. After you sacrifice the bracket it is not too hard to make the cut.

Well shoot that puts me in a little bit of a predicament then since I already have one off. Should I just glue the other one back on 1/4" off again or take the other one off and do the job right? I guess you are saying there is enough adjustment that I can adjust out the 1/4"? How much are window brackets? Are they new or used?

Put the one that you took off and place it in the right place and leave the other one alone.

Should I re-urethane the one I took off at the proper inch or where it was? I think it was 3/4" but I already scraped the glass so don’t know anymore, but I’m guessing I would just measure the same distance from the edge as the rear one is currently at and use that measurement on the front one I took off?

Any thoughts on fluid filming the rust I saw and spraying some in the corners as preventative measure?

Put the one that you took off and place it in the right place (one inch from end of glass) and leave the other one alone.

I would hate to urethane one in the wrong position and then have to take it off again.

Thanks Don! :thumbup:

BTW, if you want to save about 50% we have the bracket without stud if that helps. Will be listed on our site ASAP

http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/Search.aspx?SearchTerms=C9W%20window%20channel%20bracket%20front

I do that with mineral oil everywhere I can when the spot is not visible, ex.: interior of frame rails, doors, quarters, torque boxes, rockers… When these parts get totally rotten they need be repaired/changed anyway, so I do not care about their appearance on their hidden side and my priority is to preserve them as long as possible. But there is one limitation I scrupulously observe: NO SILICONES since nothing can ever stick to them, which may render futture repairs much more difficult, if not completly impossible.

We put a replacement frame under a Jeep CJ7 about 10-15 years ago, these frames are boxed, the previous one rotted out so we fluid flimed the crap out of the inside of the replacement frame to prevent future rotting. I agree on preserving the areas as much as possible and spraying it where it won’t be seen. You bring up a good point about silicones though. I am pretty sure Fluid Film does not contain silicone, it is made of lanolin, but I will double check the can to make sure it does not contain silicones.

In Don’s how to video he smacks the heck out of the window regulator with a hammer in the middle at the pivot point. I believe he says this tightens up the slack/wobble. I tried it on mine and it didn’t help anything. Not sure how it actually works because this looks like it might be a solid piece. Anyone have any ideas?

That maneuver is only needed if the joint has loosened up and the arms have slack horizontally. Most will not need any attention there.

oh, mine are wobbly, i guess that is normal? Maybe their not wobbly once glued to glass?

It looks like I need to urethane in one of my rear windows. Does anyone know if the bracket is to be glued an inch from the edge of the glass like the front window and if so is it an inch from the front or back edge of the window?

I just mount the bracket in the track , apply adhesive and then push it all the way back against the C pillar. Cant miss with that process…

My car is a convertible. Would I just put the top up and do the same thing?

Yes.