Ok, my Eliminator has manual drums, and I’m upgrading to front disc.
Initially, I was planning on going power disc, using correct 70 parts - swapping spindles, pedal, mc, booster, etc.
Estimated/rough prices:
Spindles: $150-200
Rotors: $60
Booster: $125
Pads: $30
Hose: $20
Calipers: $50
Pedal $150
…you get the idea
Then after reading a little, I’ve realized I can do a Wilwood upgrade - the Dynalite Classic kit for $650 - roughly even money if I don’t convert to power (discs only), and I can even use my current spindles.
In addition there will be less work, and also less “non-correct” parts on the car, regarding what this specific car came with from the factory.
Oh, and the Wilwood site says “Classic Series FDL-M kits can be used with either manual or power boost master cylinders”, so I may not have to swap the master cylinder with this kit, either.
I’ve read the Wilwood kits stop very well, so maybe the power option won’t be missed.
I guess option “C” would be to install the “correct” front 70 disc setup, and I can see if I think I need the booster/pedal swap afterwards.
Oh…and I’d like to keep the factory 14" styled steel wheels, so some of the other options that are out there are not feasible for that reason.
I would suggest you rethink the “power” part of the brakes. You should/ would & could use them under emergency situations. A “factory” swap is really easy, and guess what? The Ford engineers had it right many years ago. I track w/ factory setup, but use Porterfield brake pads. I can lock up the front w/ out much pedal effort.
I always suggest to customers thinking about aftermarket stuff, to forget the idea. The kits usually don’t fit exactly, need additional parts ( like a few different master cyl’s due to issues w/ stopping power. AND they almost always end up costing more & take longer to install.
Also, think about the future. You or the next owner might want to replace brake parts (pads & rotors) . Only to find the company has gone out of business, no longer carries that part, etc.
You should be able to get parts in the middle of Kansas or wherever, for a Ford product/parts made at least 4 years 70-73. How long might you have to wait for pads if the Mfg is out/on vacation etc.
Bill,
Do you have any preferences on the Porterfield front pads? They offer several of their own and even show the Hawk HPS’s on their website. I’m running the Hawk HPS on the factory brakes. They seem fine but I don’t have the background to make any comparisons. The Hawk’s (and maybe the Porterfield’s) are available from other sources at a better price.
I agree with your recommendations above with respect to parts availability. The brake pads are just one example but caliper rebuild kits, rotors, and hardware are readily available from multiple sources for the factory brakes.
I have used the Porterfield R4 pads for over a decade. They are great w/ no fade. I use factory brakes. Slotted rotors are the only “upgrade”. I have the same pads on my convert as they were leftover from a season. They work very good cold, and do not wear out the rotors! Second set of pads on the same rotors. I have no experience w/ other brands. There were recommended by Vic who was racing in Vintage series at the time w/ his 67 T/A Cougar.